97 Passport BIG PROBLEM!!

:banghead: Hey guys, I think I've read almost every post in here but have not found a solution to my problem yet. I had the ticking lifter problem so I pulled my cams and found 20 out of the 24 lash adjusters flatened. I replaced all 24, changed timing belt, replaced plugs. Now I have a misfife problem. As per the posts I've read, I have checked my timing belt 7 times now and I know it is correct. I went to a new set of plugs (Champions, I had Autolite), and a replaced my IMG. None of this has fixed the problem. It ran fine before. It keeps giving a P0300 code. I have three plugs burning good, two are black, and one is fuel soaked. I swapped a different coil to the one fuel soaked and the problem stayed with the same cylinder, (Not the coil). I probed the cam position sensor and it is giving a signal, but I can disconnect it and it does not change the tone of the motor.
Any ideas.
By the way, how do you locate another member. I was tring to send JLemond or 2eyefish a message.

Thanks

When you changed the timing belt, did you install a new timing belt tensioner? (this is the number one failure part for the timing belt system)

Also, did you use an OEM timing belt or aftermarket, some of the aftermarket ones have extra teeth, iirc, and timing gets off.

FWIW - I've never been able to return to Champion plugs in my '97 Rodeo, ran like crap on them straight from the factory brand-new....I use NGK's.

Thanks for the reply, no I didn't change the tensioner. It seems to be OK, I have to use a vise to sqeeze it in. I used an after market belt, but I matched it up to a Gates which NAPA says is a OEM belt. They're the same size, but the lines are not even close to being the same. I have the Goodyear belt, it's listed for a Rodeo, Passport, and an Acura. I just took the belt to Napa today to match it up, so I've just done the belt for the 8th time. My timing marks are right on the money even after I run it. It ran fine with Autolite plugs before which is why I used them again. I read in here to use Champion.

JLEMOND doesn't frequent this board. 2eye...hasn't been around for quite some time and i surmise from one of his last posts maybe he's not working at an isuzu dealership anymore. you can try to send him a PM private message.

did the lifter work solve that problem?
from what you've written, i doubt that it is the belt itself that is the problem, but at some point you've got to say it'd be better to just pay the few extra dollars and get an oem isuzu belt from a dealer locally or online; that way you'd take that out of the equation. you really should have replaced the tensioner, but that would have been making it's loud racket if it went, more than likely.

do you have no doubts that you aligned the correct marks up when setting the timing when installing the belt? cam marks to timingbelt backcover? crank mark to mark on case (oil pump cover)?

if you would describe your procedure in detail, that might lead to some help.

also, please list the cylinders by number and what the plug condition is for each. the cylinder numbering order starts at the front (radiator) and goes back (firewall)
--firewall--
5 -- 6
3 -- 4
1 -- 2
--radiator--

of course you want to avoid driving as much as possible or at all given that one wet plug especially. not only are you doing damage to that cylinder, you are more than likely ruining the CAT as it tries to rectify the exhaust.

with more info, more feedback will be possible.

//bc

Thanks for your reply. Cylinder 1 is fuel soaked, 3 and 4 are black. Also, I get a random p0302 on 2 and 5 but they seem to be burning fine. I have only got it once per cylinder. I don't drive it, it runs way to rough and don't idle. It's not popping in the exhaust or intake. I've actually set the cams back one tooth and forward one tooth each one at a time. It actually didn't run any better or worse. I'm wondering if it's the cam position sensor but I would think it would throw a code. If I unplug it, it does.
I'm at a loss and to the point of taking it to a dealer although I avoid them like the plague. I always end up paying hundreds and never get an answer.

Sorry, yeah the lash adjusters fixed the ticking problem. They were completely flattened. I tried to pop them out but couldn't. So basically each rocker had about a 1/4in gap between rocker and valve. I bought this with a rod knocking for a project. It ran fine, idled great just had a knock. I pulled the motor and put a new crank and bearings in. I didn't want to go through the whole engine because it had good compression and just passed CA smog prior to the rod knocking. After I got it back together it ran great but then I could here the ticking valves so I jumped into them. And here I am, somehow I've induced this problem. I've back tracked and disassembled then put back together, but have had no luck.