after replacement of distributer car wont start

Ok, my 97 civic has always run fine, never any audible changes, never an overheat, nothing. Then, one morning we went out & started it up, let it get warmed up, and then went to leave. When I put it in first and rolled away, it felt very shaky, and within about 20 seconds the cel came on. I immediately turned around & went back home & parked it. That eve., we drove it to a shop to have it looked at. The next day they called and said we need a new head and head gasket. Kinda silly, I thought, since it's never had an overheat, and since my coolant is a lovely shade of bright neon green, and my oil is dark (non-milky). So, we went right over there and rescued our car from the clutches of whatever madman Dx'd a bad head and gasket. We then drove to autozone to get the codes. It was a p0301, also for cyl's 3 & 4, and a mfg's controlled ignition or multiple misfire. We then bought a new distributor cap and rotor, and new plugs. We drove home, turned the car off, and my husband changed the distributor (yes, wired in correct order). When he was done, he started the car, and it ran for about 3 seconds and stalled, and now it wont start at all. Turns over great, real smooth, just wont fire up. Can you help?:uhoh:

Check the old spark plugs if you still have them. Do they have build up on them. Did they appear wet or have coolant residue on them. Maybe the dealership was right. Usually the spark plugs will give it away if there is coolant leaking into the cylinders.
Check the pits where the spark plugs go in with a shop wipe. Is there any water or oil inside the pit? Sometimes water gets in and causes a short between the plug wire and the valve cover. A leaking valve cover gasket can cause the same problem. Remove the plugs and crank the engine. Clean the pits again and see if there is any coolant.
The ignition coils are another possibility.
To check your ignition coils.
For Hitachi: 0.45 to 0.55 ohm primary (two male plugs + and - terminals)
22.4 to 33.6 from the + to the secondary winding terminal.

For TEC: 0.63 to 0.77 ohm primary windings (round + and - terminals)
12.8 to 19.2 for the primary + terminal the the secondary winding terminal.

Check and be sure on the spark plug order again and check the timing while you are at it. The number one spark plug cable will have a number one cylinder mark (Circle with an A1 or C in it - depending on type. The number 4 plug wire will have B1 or A beside it depending on type of distributer). The order going clockwise is 1, 3, 4,then 2.

Did he replace the distributor or distributor cap? You said distributor in your post. If this is the case, and he did replace the distributor - do you know he place the #1 piston at top dead center? If not, your timing is off, and it will not start or run. Also, check to make sure that the ignition coil wire is firmly seated, sounds like it may be losing spark. Maybe
also replace the ignition coil.

You said it first started and ran for 3 seconds fine.
That means the wireing and order are ok.
It wouldn't have fired up if it wasn't.
I'd double check the rotor and anything else he did,
something may have come loose.
Maybe the fastening screw on the rotor came loose or off?
Also check all feed wires and connectors to the distributor.
It's probably something simple.
If it's a timing issue, you should get a misfire or backfire trying to start it.
If you get nothing, pull a plug and ground it to the engine while turning
over, verify you get a spark.:smokin: