Ignition key won't turn

My 316i 1995 has encountered a peculiar and dangerous problem. While driving on the highway yesterday the check engine light came on so I pulled over and then tried to switch the engine off. The key would not turn! There was something very hard stopping it from turning so I figured I should not force it and drove it to the BMW dealer about 15 miles. The mechanic opened the under cover of the steering and then pulled out the electronics which had a small screw head on it. On turning it with the screwdriver as one would with the key the engine stopped. Now I am driving it with the ignition assembly hanging loose and a screwdriver in the driver's side door pocket! But the key still has to be inserted into the key hole before it will start. The steering lock does not work so I don't know why the key has to be inserted. I have ordered a new lock barrel. This would mean that I would have to carry two keys - one for the ignition and one for the doors. A little inconvenient but can't be helped I am also terrified that the steering lock might engage inadvertently and lock the steering. Any suggestions?I have found some posts on this matter so it is not uncommon but in my case the key just will not turn and I don't want to force it.

on many of these the key lock cylinder is released by turning the key to position 1 (run) and then pushing in a small tag that sits in a groove on the bottom of the lock cylinder barrel while pulling the lock cylinder out. Once out a new lock cylinder can be purchased or a a re-key package and the lock cylinder re-keyed to your old key. Generally the tumblers fail in the lock cylinder causing this condition.

The trouble is the key won't turn at all for me to get it to position to insert the pin to relase catch and withdraw cylinder. So how do I proceed now?

I had to take a small hammer and tap on the lock cylinder while trying to turn the key, eventually the key turned enough that I could push in the release and pull the cylinder out.

I replaced the tumbler and ordered a new coded key from BMW. It took 3 weeks so all is well now. But I have never had this problem with any other car and it seems there is a defect in the design which BMW engineers should have worked out.

1996 Dodge Caravan and 1998 Plymouth Neon had the same issue so I do not believe it to be brand specific.

I have an 86 325 and it has seperate door and ign. keys, never had an ign. key problem but wife has worn out a few on other cars because of a ten pound key chain she carries, she doesn't think thats the problem so she still has keys and trinkets and more trinkets on her key ring.

I only have 3-5 keys on my key rings and a plastic fob to distinguish between them I have one for each car and it is easier on the pockets (I didn't always have seperate key rings but learned early that you don't need every key you own in your pocket or hanging on your hip.

bad cylinder?

I have a brand new ignition switch in the closet for an e30....I thought it was causing ignition cut out, it wasn't...it's the part that attaches to the key assembly on the steering column....turned out it was the ignition coil...I never even installed this part...if you need let me know....cliff

i had the same problem as you but with me it was the ignition was stuck in possition 2 with the lights on the dash on and the keys in my hand.
so this is what i did to resolve the problem.

i disconnected the battery and waited 1 hour.
removed the steering column housing.
then diconected the starter switch of the back of the ignition barrel.
then i unscrewed the splined screws from the back of the steering wheel.
then undid the steering wheel bolt making sure i marked one point with tipex in which to replace it in the same possition.
removed the steering wheel being carefull not to set off the air bag and disconnecting the wires.
removed the metal clip holding the ingnition steering column asssembly in place.
then i removed the ignition steering column assembly off the steering column.
i then add access to the steering lock mechanism.
i turned the lock back to possition 0 buy removing the internal parts taking great care in noting which way they went back.
i then greased the internal working parts ot the steering look and replaced them in the exact place as i removed them.
i also sprayed the loock itself with wd40.
and then proceeded to replace the parts in the exact order i removed them in an my problem was solved.
i have not had a problem with my ignition lock since.
the reason why you need to insert the key into the barrel is because the key has an imobiliser chip in it.
if you look at the enterance tot the lock you will se a black ring around the lock that is the imobiliser receiver that is why you need to insert the key
hope this helps you.

thepictorian