4T65E Trans Shift Hard, P1811 DTC

One question, where is the PCS and why can I not change it also when i take the pan off?


See pic below.



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/valvebody2.jpg
EPC- Pressure Control Solenoid (PCS)

BNaylor:

I have a 1999 Buick Regal LS, with the shifting problem that is the focus of this thread. I have had this problem for years (hard shifting, engine whining coincident with engine RPM). I wanted to try the shift kit mod you mentioned, as it seems this is a consistently successful fix for this problem. I was going to treat the transmission fluid with the seafoam TransTune treatment, followed by installing the shift kit mod during the fluid replacement. Do you recommend one shift kit over another? I thought the ZZ Performance kit did not include a new set of valve springs; is that something I should consider when choosing one kit over another?

BNaylor:

I have a 1999 Buick Regal LS, with the shifting problem that is the focus of this thread. I have had this problem for years (hard shifting, engine whining coincident with engine RPM). I wanted to try the shift kit mod you mentioned, as it seems this is a consistently successful fix for this problem. I was going to treat the transmission fluid with the seafoam TransTune treatment, followed by installing the shift kit mod during the fluid replacement. Do you recommend one shift kit over another? I thought the ZZ Performance kit did not include a new set of valve springs; is that something I should consider when choosing one kit over another?

Did you ever get it scanned for the P1811 (Max adapt, long shift) DTC? In many cases the shift kit works but not all depending on how bad the PCS solenoid is or other internal issues. But for the cost it doesn't hurt to try it. Any shift kit is fine. The ZZP kit works but does not have all accumulator parts. But if you want the accumulator springs replaced try the Thrasher or Trans Go kits. I have the Thrasher in my '97 GTP and ZZP in the '99 Regal LS. For tranny fluid using the Dexron VI which is downward compatible with Dexron III.

Good luck!

My 2003 Impala had thrown P1811 code and occasionally had a hard 1st - 2nd shift. I went to a transmission shop and had them change the fluid and filter, plus check whatever else out. They had two possible causes the PCS or the input clutch piston seal. GM used a short lip seal which apparently wears out. The PCS job wa $500 and the seal was a rebuild which was well over a $1000. I went with the transgo shift kit, installed it and the hard shifts haven't gone away altogether but they are greatly reduced; only two in the past few months. I never noticed the 'pump whine' so am a little confused by that.

If I could find a car with a bad transmission cheap or a used cheap transmission, I might buy it for the adventure of rebuilding it myself.

I never noticed the 'pump whine' so am a little confused by that.



Not all PCS issues cause a pump whine. About 50% who get a P1811 DTC may get it. If you get a whining sound it is because the PCM module commands maximum line pressure after seeing a fault. Shutting the engine off or clearing the P1811 DTC will normally cause the noise to go away until it kicks in again.

Another way to reduce the possibility of the P1811 DTC and harsh upshifting is use manual shifting versus automatic especially in town driving. But this is only a temporary work around.

Good morning its Sunday and I installed the shift kit yesterday.everything went smoothly but its a messy job,hint don`t take the accumulator apart on the kitchen table you will get yelled at!The car shifts excellent from 1st to 2nd,2nd to 3rd also great but overdrive is still jumping.I know the kit doesn`t claim to fix overdrive problem,but I was hoping.When I took car on to the hiway and held the pedal down car shifted great but when engine got over 4000rpm it started missing and backfiring thru intake also check engine started flashing then light went off.I suspect maybe bad gas I`am going put some gasoline antifreeze maybe water in the gas.any suggestions appreciated!

I started getting the shifting problems 2 years ago on a 2002 Impala 3.8 and the dreaded code P1811. A new PCS by Mr Transmission for $500 solved everything....smooth shifting again and no cluncking or hard shifts.

Last few weeks noticed poor shifting and poor power. When I floored the gas pedal the transmission downshifted and the revs went to 5000rpm but no acceleration and the engine started misfiring and check engine light flashed a few times. On easing off on the gas the transmission upshifted with a harsh clunk and the flashing check engine light went off. Only way to accelerate on the highway was slowly with part throttle. I scanned the codes and got P1811 again and P0300, P0301 (Misfire and plug 1 misfire). Took car to Mr Transmission who checked out the transmission and said all was fine with shift points and timing but suggested it could be a plugged catalytic convertor as he has seen that before many times. If you google for "plugged GM catalytic converter" you'll find it is a huge problem with symptoms exactly as I described.
A trip to a muffler shop (Speedy) and they disconected the cat and tested the vehicle....perfect power and super smooth shifting again. They installed a new cat and all is perfect again without any engine codes. The Impala has full power and nice smooth and quick shifting.

Get your codes scanned. You might well have a PCS transmission problem but it could also be a plugged cat. Any good muffler place will test your cat.
Sorry for the long post.

Hi there. I'm glad I found this thread.

I have a 2002 Pont Grand Prix GT 3.8V6 (122K miles) with the hard shift symptoms and code p1811. Started in Jan. went away for awhile and then came back last week. Shifts fine when cold but once hot (i.e. after hiway drive) then the hard shifts start. Also have noticed the pump whine (even before problem but thought that was a "pontiac thing").

One symtom I have not read in these posts is a "burning oil" smell as my wife calls it. I said it smells more like burning brakes (or maybe clutch plates or trans fluid?). I'm just wondering if others have experienced this smell or could I be looking at something more than the trans shift kit/pcs repair?

I'm hoping to avoid a complete re-build cost. Would be great to keep repairs under $1000 and hopefully get another couple years out of car. But then again "s__t happens" and you have to deal with it.

Thanks.

Hi All,

A lot of great info here! Will this solution work for an MD7 variant of the transmission. Mine was manufactured in China. Thanks heaps!

Hi All,

A lot of great info here! Will this solution work for an MD7 variant of the transmission. Mine was manufactured in China. Thanks heaps!

Welcome to AF.

What year make/model car?

Welcome to AF.

What year make/model car?

Hi BNaylor,

Thanks for the prompt response. I am in the Philippines, GM China released here a re-badged version of the 2004/05 Buick Regal as Chevrolet Lumina. Mine has the LB8 engine 2.5l V6 SFI. I heard it's a derivative of the LG8 with lower displacement. I looked at the parts code in the trunk cover and saw 4T65E MD7 as the transmission code. I usually drive late at night or early in the morning. I don't usually get the symptom unless it's a stop and go traffic for about 40 mins or so. You mentioned it's about the repeated cycles of upshift, will that mean it's ok to drive it to a highway and mostly stay in 4th gear? The city driving is what makes the shift cycles happen so often. Let me know if there's any other info I need to pull-up.

Thanks,

I know this is an old thread, but I've got the same problem and I want to ask a few questions (Hoping you are still out there).

I wanted to know how things are going with your Venture. Still have the vehicle? Still working well (shifting problem still solved)? Scale of 1 to 10 - How difficult were the repairs you completed? (10 being really difficult)

Thanks in advanced for you response...

To kgstrap,

Sorry for the Re-Post (forgot to address it)

I know this is an old thread, but I've got the same problem and I want to ask a few questions (Hoping you are still out there).

I wanted to know how things are going with your Venture. Still have the vehicle? Still working well (shifting problem still solved)? Scale of 1 to 10 - How difficult were the repairs you completed? (10 being really difficult)

Thanks in advanced for you response...

when accumulator is apart,,,the bores should be scuffed ,,,,polished with scotch-brite to assure a good seal,,,,,possibly replace seal rings on pistons also gbaum

trannyman52

Are there any photos/diagrams available, that you've seen, in "internet-land" to show the installation of a shift kit? Photos/diagrams of the Accumulator?

Are you familar with this shifting issue in this thread? In your experience, will this fix help with the shifting problem? Are there any short term or long term problems associated with this repair?

Thanks again for your help....

the pics on this post are very good,,on what to expect when taking apart,,other than usually the springs are broken!!!... Usually just replacing the springs,scuffing the bores with scotch-brite,,,replace the rubber piston seals,,,,....should work like a million bucks!!!!

There is no down-side to this repair,,,you are only bringing the servos back to factory spec

There are other issues with the valve body,,,but are more related to rebuilding the trans due to the fact the VB is not too acessable without the trans out of the car

gbaum

I just finished reading this entire thread (still digesting!) and it has give me a little hope!
I just bought a 2000 montana since the Grand-AM was no longuer big enough due to the latest addition to our family (it's a BOY!). I tried the van long enough to warm it up good before buying it and there was never any issues what's so ever. So we bought it... Only after driving it home (was 4hrs away) did it start the hard shifting thing! I stopped at my brother in-law who is a mechanic and plugged in his scanner. There was a few codes:
P0742 (TCC stuck ON) or something like that
P1811 (we all know what this one is)
and other codes for the O2 sensors... All fluid levels were fine so we erased the codes and drove the rest of the way with absolutely no issues at all?!... Like everyone else it works fine untill it's warmed up then comes the hard shifting. The engine light came on again and the only code that came back was P0742 (no P1811 this time) & the O2 sensor thing again...
I bought some Seafoam Trans Tune and dumped 1/2 the bottle in it (20 kms ago) and the hard shifting is still present except now it doesn't get REAL bad where the van jerks, it just shifts harder then normal & havn't got another code yet.
I want to do a fluid & filter change (already bought the filter & 8ltrs of DEXRON VI) but now I want to try this shift kit that seems to do miracles and save everybody big bucks!!! The only thing I'm not sure is the type of transmission is in this van. Are all 2000 montana equiped with a 4T65E? Would I order the kit which the link in the above post brings me to? I seem to be the only one with the P0742 code, would the kit help resolve my problem?
Thanks ahead of time for any help you can bring me. And a special THUMBS UP to bnaylor for all the help you brought to all these satisfied member! Keep up the good work!

Hi, me again... would this be the kit I would need to get for my 2000 Montana?

http://www.onlinetransmissionparts.com/servlet/the-345/Transgo-SK-Shift-Kit/Detail

There seems to be different brands of this shift kit, besides the price are they all the same? I'm not looking to get a "racing machine", just want it to work properly...

Thanks.

Here's an update on my situation...

I went ahead and dropped the pan on my transmission and replaced the filter and filled it back up with DEXRON VI. I noticed some metalic like residue in the bottom of the pan and around the magnet (which I cleaned good before re-installing. I then took it for a good run and it looked good up until around 35 kms of driving. It started shifting hard again. I had a scanner plugged in the whole time I was driving. What I noticed is it seems like the transmission isn't downshifting when slowly reducing speed (when I let go the throttle going down hill) it feels like something isn't disingaging and I constantly feel a "chug chug chug" and the RPM bounces as well. When you slowly press on the accelerator (once at a slower speed) it feels like it's still in high gear and the motor's having a hard time (like not downshifting a manual transmission) which is probably why I then got some O2 sensor codes: P0131 & P0137 (both showing a "low voltage")

I am obviously experiencing more symptoms then most people on this thread, am I looking at replacing the trany?

I thought I would repost this in this tread.



I'm new to this site but have read a lot of good information on here. I have read a lot about the P1811 code and have some questions about it.
I had the trans fluid and filter changed on my 2005 Grand Prix at 96000 mi. The fluid looked and smelled okay before changing. Shortly after we started to notice a slip when starting out from a stop. My wife drives it mostly and thought it was the tires spinning on ice or snow. It only does it once every few days. So I brought it back to the trans shop and they said they notice the slip and pulled the P1811 code. They pulled the pan and filter and found them to be clean but still want to do a complete rebuild.
I don't notice any other hard shifting or the whining that others have talked about with this code. So my questions are.
1 Will the pressure control solenoid cause this slip from a dead stop and not notice the hard shifts in other gears?
2 Is it worth changing the pressure control solenoid without a rebuild?
3 Would the shift kits help at all with the engaging problem at start up?

Thanks for any help on this.

OK, to correct my previous post, it seems I wasn't reading this scanner correctly and last night I noticed I had to go in a "enhanced DTC" mode under a "GM" sub menu to get the codes I was looking for. It's then that I realized that P1811 does comme on in the "current DTC folder" when the hard shifting is felt. Stop the van, turn the ignition off for 30 secs. and start back up and the code is gone... Then the 1-2 gear change is smooth (but long), the P1811 comes back and BANG, here we go again. Besides the noticeable long shifting (between gears), I feel no slippage at all when driving this van. I think I will go ahead and order me one of these shift kits and put it in. (it's cheaper then a transmission) After reading this thread I have a feeling I might get lucky but any comments would be appreciated.

Sorry for the long story :p

Thanks!

Hi All,

I recently installed the TransGo Shift Kit and so far so good, I guess. Are there any other things I should watch out for aside from leaks, maybe signs of incorrect installation, loss of pressure in the accumulator body and what not, what are the symptoms?

Here's what I have observed after a week of driving with light throttle:

-2nd comes in at 1.6k RPMs. It used to be 1.5k, and the needle would kick to about 1.7 RPMs before coming down as it shifts.

-3rd and 4th both at a little over 2k RPMs, are hardly felt so I guess this is ok.

Also, when I'm cruising in 3rd, keeping my foot at the throttle it would wait until a little over 2k RPM before it shifts to 4th. But sometimes just approaching 2k, when I lift my foot it shifts to 4th.

I can feel a slight change when the temperature picks up but nothing like how it used to "judder" before. Let me know if I'm missing something here. It was my first time fiddling with transmission and would appreciate any feedback.

Thanks heaps,
Allan

Another happy ending!

Well, I installed the Transgo shift kit about a week ago and so far so good! Drove it long enough around town for everything to warm up and it was still shifting nice. No more P1811 wich makes me real happy! Thanks alot to BNaylor and this forum!

The Transgo kit fixed the hard shift issue for a couple of months, but the problem returned. The garage was taken up by another project car so I took it to the shop and had them replace the PCS. They stated the Transgo shift kit is one they install normally, so no harm done. Now to replace the half axles.

I found this site doing search for a problem that started 5-17-2011 with the car.
My car is a 2002 Chevy Impala 97,000 miles. I had the transmission serviced at around 50,000 miles by the dealer. It's just now started the hard shifts,heard the whining sound once. I noticed when it does the shifting problem the temp gauge will also increase some.I guess it's due to the slipping of the transmission getting hot due to it slipping adding extra heat to the cooling system.
I read these posts on using the Sea foam, changing the fluid, filter and a shift kit.
This car has the 3.8 liter engine so I'm assuming this has the 4T65E trans.
Can the shift kit be purchased at an Auto parts store or can you only get them from an online source? I'm still not sure which kit would be best for me, I only want the car to operate properly, no high performance
I haven't taken it to a dealer or transmission shop for a diagnosis yet.
I don't have a problem with doing the work myself, I have the tools etc.
Thanks in advance.
Norman

I found this site doing search for a problem that started 5-17-02 with the car.
My car is a 2002 Chevy Impala 97,000 miles. I had the transmission serviced at around 50,000 miles by the dealer. It's just now started the hard shifts,heard the whining sound once. I noticed when it does the shifting problem the temp gauge will also increase some.I guess it's due to the slipping of the transmission getting hot due to it slipping adding extra heat to the cooling system.
I read these posts on using the Sea foam, changing the fluid, filter and a shift kit.
This car has the 3.8 liter engine so I'm assuming this has the 4T65E trans.
Can the shift kit be purchased at an Auto parts store or can you only get them from an online source? I'm still not sure which kit would be best for me, I only want the car to operate properly, no high performance
I haven't taken it to a dealer or transmission shop for a diagnosis yet.
I don't have a problem with doing the work myself, I have the tools etc.
Thanks in advance.
Norman

Welcome to AF.

There is no guarantee a shift kit will work. It depends on how bad the PCS is and other variables but for the cost and DIY labor you have nothing to lose versus spending $500 - $2500 on tranny work. The shift kit helps shift timing and may preclude the P1811 DTC from setting or going into a high line pressure mode. Also, some have replaced the PCS but the issue remained. Other transaxle components can cause the issue like internal mechanical, clutch packs, valve body, etc.

Typically you get the shift kit on line. From ZZP Performance, Thrasher or Transgo, etc The kits vary on composition. Some even have the new accumulator springs.

All 2000 and up Impalas have the 4T65E autotransaxle. GM RPO code M15 or MN3.

Thanks for the quick reply BNaylor
I reread my post I had 5-17-02 I meant 5-17 2011. I went ahead and ordered a shift kit from from Transgo. I also purchased the dexron VI atf fluid at Wal mart 8qts.
I got a can of Sea Foam for transmissions, I put in just a little over half of the can. I'll drive the car until the shift kit arrives should be here by the end of this week. I'll drop the pan, changing the fluid and filter, adding the shift kit.
I found a transmission filter at O'Reilly's problem is it's a china made one for $16.00 will this work good?Or should I look else where for a ac delco TF 304 screen filter? I may have a hard time finding this I live in a small town over 60 miles to Amarillo,Tx. Or I can order the filter on line.
I plan on changing the fluid again in a month as there will still be dexron III and some Sea Foam still in the mix as I understand you can't get it all out by just draining the pan, or will it matter?. Should I also change the filter again if you recommend changing the fluid again?
Thanks again for your time
Norman
Here is the prices for all this
I purchased 2 trany filters at auto zone total price $30.29 these were made in Taiwan.
Super tech atf Dexcon VI 8 qts. total $34.38
Sea Foam $11.90
shift kit $62.73......... I purchased this kit as it has springs in case I find a broken spring other wise I'd purchased a zzp kit.
$139.30 total

Well I installed the shift kit etc. The car still has problems with shifting so it looks like I'll be changing out the transmission, it was worth a try using the shift kit. I think having a complete rebuild will be the route for repairing the tranny.

Hi 4T65E thread mates,

I have a 2002 Buick Century, 100K miles with all the typical symtoms plus one. I have read this thread 3 times in the past week. The symtom I have that I haven't seen on the thread is that my trans is not down shifting to 1st when I come to a stop. It is staying in 2nd gear. So I'm taking off in second then I get a hard shift into 3rd. Even flooring it at around 15-20MPH it won't go into 1st.

My car started hard shifting on a cross country trip. When I got home, Salt Lake City, I had the trans serviced/flushed. Fluid was like new and zero metal etc in the pan. Flush did no good and now have added Seafoam and it helped a little. I know, I should have done the Seafoam first. Duh.

My Buick dealer/service mgr who I trust implicitly has checked it out and said I need a PCS and valve body(around $1200).

My question is, should I do the shift kit first to see if it works and eliminates the code or am I just wasting my time and just go ahead with the PCS and valve body? I afraid of doing the $1200 job and not having it fix the problem. Maybe I should just go for a rebuild from the getgo.

I can't do the shift kit myself as I am 70 years old and have trouble working under a car on my back, get dizzy and my eyesight isn't what it used to be.

Thanks for any advice you can give.

For those who might be wondering, our van is still running great since installing the TRANSGO shift kit. Didn't get any shifting issues at all since! Thanks again to BNaylor for this great tip, you saved us ALOT of DOUGH!!

Here's an update to our cars tranny. We looked around for shops to work on the car. low price was $1500.00 ,1year or12.000 miles warranty. Highest price was $3400.00 but 5 year 100,000 mile warranty and that was from the Chevy dealer who be bought the car from.
I decided to go with the Chevy dealer, they commented they would look at the car and let us know just what they found before any work. Took the car to the dealer my wife drove the car and I followed on the bike, my bike developed a large leak on the front cylinder on the way to the dealer putting me in a not too good of mood.
When I arrived at the dealer my wife and the service man were coming back from test driving the car. He said there wasn't anything wrong. I said your kidding right? Yea he was kidding ,but said he didn't think it was the tranny.
So we leave the car, 2days later he calls said the car is fine!!? he said they found the catalytic converter plugged causing the problems, and no charge! I was dumb founded! Seems Chevrolet will warranty that even if the car is almost 10 years old. The service guy wanted to do a brake flush, spark plugs, and wires along with the serpentine belt. I declined that. I can handle all the things he listed except the brake flush. They say the brake fluid will develop allege I never heard of that.
So now all I have to do is fix the bike which is being done in my garage right now and get the car back and do the repairs to it. I might have let the Chevy dealer do the repairs but money is tight right now for us.
Which auto parts store will carry the best grade of plug wires?
What to do abut the brake fluid if anything at all?
The belt isn't a problem and the spark plugs aren't either.
If your having the trans axle problem it might pay to have it checked by your dealer if you trust him. Could be the catalytic converter? I think one other person has had the catalytic converter plugged and wrote about it on this post.

This is gjhunter01 and thought I would leave a update from my page 1 posting. I just sold my 01 Lesabre 2 weeks ago with 180k miles on it. The spring kit was installed in 4/08 with 125k miles i have not had any problems with the trans and have not even touched it since.

Ok I have a 2000 Lesabre Limited with 25k on it. After i bought it it developed a hard shift in all gears with the 1811 code. The dealer replaced the valve body and EPC solenoid. It now up shifts thru every gear smooth as silk and even into lockup. The thing I notice is one hard downshift if you are going 55 mph and step on it to downshift into 2nd it is a very firm shift. If you feather the gas it will shift out of lock up smooth. If you floor it it will shift smooth its only the one downshift .Ideas ???

Well I just bought a zzperformace shift kit for my tranny. Hopefully it work on my buick century. I just got the car and now the tranny started shifting hard. I called the guy I got it from and said he had no probs with it at all. He said he just replaced the intake gaskets some I,m wondering if it over heat and damaged the tranny.

I am wondering if some of this is electronic, like temp opens in the wires or crimps of the sockets in the 20 way connector. It is way to random to be mechanical. My 2003 Impala with a 4T65E will clunk when I first start to pull away from a stop...does not do it all the time. I did disconnect the bat and then diconnected the 20 way connector, squirted some electrical contact cleaner in both connector halves...the trans worled grat for a month, then random clunks...found if I push in on the group of wires in the 20 way connector, the trans will work great for a week or two. Going to get a 20 way connector and try.

I am wondering if some of this is electronic, like temp opens in the wires or crimps of the sockets in the 20 way connector. .

Not normally but it doesn't hurt to disconnect the 20 way connector and reseat. But most issues are as discussed above. Clunk from start sounds like another problem. You sure your axle shafts are good and the differential?

Clunk from start sounds like another problem It is not actually a clunk, it's more of a thump after driving a few feet, totally random and I can stop it by pushing in on the wire cluster on the 20 way connector. I know what a bad C/V joint is like, no matter what you do there is the metallic "clunk" when putting the trans in gear or starting off , with snaping noises when turning.

Not normally but it doesn't hurt to disconnect the 20 way connector and reseat that won't help if there is an itermittent open in the control wiring of the 20 way connector...

sorry I still beleive it to be electronic....still under investagation.

also the MAF can affect the trans , case in point. My sister called and said her Nissan sometimes bogged down after starting off at the light. I drove it and noticed that it would randomly start in second gear. I cleaned the MAF..problem solved. Use sensor safe cleaners.

You'd probably want to take it a specialist like a transmission shop. Cost will vary depending on where you live. Cottman's which is also AAMCO here charged around $600 with the part. But they tried awfully hard to convince us to get a rebuild which was declined.

Or you're welcome to try my work around suggestion but at your own risk. To date all I can proudly report is none of the test vehicles where this procedure was applied have any further issues.

For the accumulator shift mod I can direct you to a place on-line that sells it. If you can DIY a pan drop service then you could do this mod or have a general mechanic do it. Also, I would highly recommend switching over to the new Dexron VI with this mod. I have noted no issues. Also, I can post pics of how the accumulator looks and how the mod is done.

I really like your explanation on the work around of the PCS. I have the ZZP shift kit and added Sea Foam a couple of days ago. My question is, should I run the Foam for a couple of weeks or is it safe to just go ahead and dump the fluid and install the shift kit. By the way, the hard up shifts haven't stopped but they have gotten better. I do have a slight whine and was wondering if the shift kit would eliminate the whine? Like so many others on this subject, I am opting not to have a shop replace my PCS.

I would rather spend the $60 or so before having a trans shop charge me $600 to $800. When I first noticed the harder up shifting, I had a lube shop drop the pan, clean out the pan and change the filter....the filter was a cheap China one. It corrected the hard shifts for about a week and then came back. Is the whine caused from the PCS and high pressure or may it be something else? I noticed the whine when it started up shifting harder. It's not real hard but I just want it to shift normal again and will use the small spacers from the kit. I have been working on cars my whole life and this seems pretty straight forward. I know I need to scuff up the bores for the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator mod.

One last question, I am going to go with Dextron 6 and not do a flush of the converter. Will I have to do another fluid change in a month or so or can it wait until spring? Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions!

2000 Impala LS
3.8L Buick Engine
4T65e Trans

I have the same shift problems with a 2001 Monte Carlo SS and have been trying to find the ZZ Performance shift kit for the 4T65E transmission. I cannot find this at their website. Has the kit been discontinued and are there any available online.

I'm a 40 year-old female who knows very little about cars, and so, hopefully, you guys can help me here. I bought a used 1999 Buick Regal a little over 3 years ago, and when I bought it, I was told it had the hard-shifting problem. But, for the price, I bought the car anyways.

Anyways, I finally got the money about 2 years ago to get the problem fixed, and initially my mechanic thought it was just spark plugs. I had the spark plugs replaced -- issue remained. Then, finally, we did have the PCS replaced, which solved the problem for about 3 months. I took it back, and then, the dealership informed my mechanic that GM had a new part that supposedly solved this problem. So, they put the new part on free of charge, and it looked like it solved the problem. That was 13 months ago.

Then, last night, the issue has shown up again. The same old problem -- hard-shifting, along with a whining noise, after the car warms up. So, here we go again. I can see no other problems with the transmission -- beyond the hard-shifting, the car runs smooth as silk.

Do you guys have any suggestions? I am getting SO tired of this. Could it be something else? Or, is this likely to be the PCS again? I'm taking it into the shop tomorrow to have it checked out, and if it's the PCS again, I'm going to ask why they told me this new part was a "fix" and it happened again.

Thanks in advance!

Mary

I have the same shift problems with a 2001 Monte Carlo SS and have been trying to find the ZZ Performance shift kit for the 4T65E transmission. I cannot find this at their website. Has the kit been discontinued and are there any available online.Click Here (http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/259-4T65e-Shift-Kit.aspx)also you can Click Here (http://ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-performance/628840-shift-kit-install-very-detailed-56k-go-watch-movie.html) for some good install instructions.

Could it be something else? Or, is this likely to be the PCS again? I'm taking it into the shop tomorrow to have it checked out, and if it's the PCS again, I'm going to ask why they told me this new part was a "fix" and it happened again.

Thanks in advance!

MaryHave you had the fluid & filter replaced since you have owned the car?

HOTZ28:

When they put on the new PCS 13 months ago, I think they replaced the transmission fluid (I have no clue about the filter). I will find out tomorrow, though, since I've had the same mechanic for years. Could the fluid cause these symptoms, including the whining noise? If so, why?

Thanks so much!

Mary

The location of the PCS, is totally different from the trans pan & filter. When the fluid breaks down, varnish develops and detergents in the fluid loose their cleaning capacity; therefore, contributing to sticking shift solenoids & valve body problems. I would ask the mechanic to change the fluid/filter & use Dexron VI fluid as a replacement. After the fluid/filter change, drive it for about 5K miles before condemning the PCS.

Okay, I took it to the shop, the mechanic drove it around with a scanner, and he couldn't really find anything wrong. He did note that he thought the RPM was a tad bit higher than normal for the speed, and so, if he had to guess, he was thinking that I am at the beginning of the Torque Converter Clutch System going bad. However, he believes I probably still have 1-2 years before I might need a new transmission, and so, I guess for now, I'll leave it be. He did check the PCS, and it was fine.

Also, I was wrong about the dates. It's been almost 2 full years (Feb. 2010) since the new PCS was installed. So, this car has been doing fine for that long. I think that's pretty good.

Anyways, I guess I'll just wait and see. If this car lasts me another 2 years, I probably will just get another car and not do the transmission rebuild.

Any has any other thoughts? I assume that a hard-shift/whining noise would also be consistent with Torque Converter issues? (I have not looked it up yet).

Mary

Did you find out if the fluid/filter was changed when the mechanic changed the PCS? If it has been 2-yrs since that repair, even if the fluid/filter was changed, it would not hurt to do it again.

hello guys, i'm having kinda the same problum but what i have is a 1999 grand prix gt, and it will shift from 1st to 2nd just fine and dont want to shift to 3rd untill you get to 50+ mph, and then its a hard shift but does fine after it shifts, but when you slow down it wont take passing gear or 2nd till you get down to about 35 mph and then the same thing increasing speed to 50+ to hit 3rd again. i'm not sure if its the 3/4 solinoid or tcc solinoid, or accumulator's or what. can anyone help me please? thanks so much.
michael

I have an 06 Impala SS and the tranny stopped working on me on the freeway didn't want to go into any gears. I had it diagnosed and it came up with the P1811 code. The car doesnt move.what do you recommend I do rebuilt the transmission or get the shift kit and see if that works?

I have a 2004 Buick LeSabre Custom with 135K miles. I'm having the hard shifts in first and second too. I had the fluid and filter replaced and the transmission shop said there were no stored codes. I only have the problem after the car has had a chance to warm up.

Would this kit work for the Lesabre? I didn't see it listed on the ZZ website.

I have installed the Transgo Shift Kit 1-2 2-3 accumulator parts (springs, spacers), and I have the tranny side cover off to replace the solenoids.

Is it easy to install the extra parts that come with the Transgo Shift Kit while I have the side cover off with Tranny still in vehicle?

A. Springs for 3-4 accumulator
B. Seal for the third clutch piston, a chamfered seal and a spring for the groove
C. A new spring and boost valve
D. A long-lipped seal for the reverse servo

Are these accessible and easy enough to install? Or require more technical disassembly/re-assembly?

Would it also be smart at this point to install a new 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator assembly? (New pistons, rings)

Thanks,
Buffbuh

120K miles. Had the P1811 (adaptive shift) code set and intermittent harsh shifts.
Tests with a recording scan indicated that the 1-2 shift was slow, leading to max tranny fluid pressure.

Installed the TransGo shift kit on the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulators yesterday along with filter and fluid change. (Ordered kit with filter from TripleEdgePerformance) and so far so good. Shifts are firmer, and the 1-2 shift is faster. Took about 2 hours to do the install at a leasurely pace.

Tips to save mess compared to more traditional tranny filter change (with no drain plug).
- The shift kit installs from the underside, car on ramps works.
- Use a suction pump (like the Mityvac MV7400) to remove most of the tranny fluid first.
- Us a large plastic pan/tub under the tranny to catch residual fluid, dropping parts, dripping, etc. WalMart has one that is about 5x16x22 inches for around $5
- it took 8 quarts of fluid to refill

This was faster and much easier than trying to replace the pressure control solenoid somes time associated wit the P1811 and may address other issues as well. The kit came with some additional parts for the 3-4 shift accumulator, etc., but they are hard to reach, and may not be needed to address the issue.

Hey Bufbuh;

I'm a newbie too; have been lurking for ages considering what to do with my '04 Bonne's insane hard shifts - did the seafoam thing for about 500 miles which did nothing at all in helping to eliminate the hard shifts, and now have the accumulator assembly on the bench with the Transgo kit installed in it.

The thing is, I called the telephone number on Transgo's 4-page instruction sheet and talked to Jim, he said to definitely replace the EPC solenoid, as highlighted on page 2 - it says "EPC solenoid: Replace it! This solenoid fails with no metal contamination, even on perfectly clean low mileage transmission."

So I ordered an EPC solenoid off the net, got a Bosch part in a GM labelled sealed plastic bag. So now I'm considering the replacement process for the EPC - I don't have a repair manual for the car, so will be searching that info out on how to replace the EPC solenoid... maybe you know a link for that info?

As to your question on whether to replace / and how hard to replace the other parts in the Transgo kit - he told me that this Transgo kit was not meant to be a "fix all" for the hard shifting problem, but a kit intended to be used by rebuilders at the pint of a rebuild. For specifics on using the additional springs/seals/parts in the kit, I'd say call Jim at Transgo - he was very helpful, and didn't mind the questions at all. They're in the business of selling parts, and ultimately we're all buying parts.... Anyway, the number is (626) 443-7451, and just ask for technical support.

best regards,
Husky_Jeff



I have installed the Transgo Shift Kit 1-2 2-3 accumulator parts (springs, spacers), and I have the tranny side cover off to replace the solenoids.

Is it easy to install the extra parts that come with the Transgo Shift Kit while I have the side cover off with Tranny still in vehicle?

A. Springs for 3-4 accumulator
B. Seal for the third clutch piston, a chamfered seal and a spring for the groove
C. A new spring and boost valve
D. A long-lipped seal for the reverse servo

Are these accessible and easy enough to install? Or require more technical disassembly/re-assembly?

Would it also be smart at this point to install a new 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator assembly? (New pistons, rings)

Thanks,
Buffbuh

I'm not sure if you'd consider the solenoid a DIY job or not. It really depends on your experience and skills. I haven't done it myself, but I am considering it. Here's one link that shows some of what's involved:

http://helpwrench.com/forums/showthread.php?7-GM-4T65E-solenoid-shift-valve-replacement-TCC-PWM-EPC-1-2-2-3

I know this is an old article which helped me a whole bunch. Many thanks to BNaylor for his input!!!

I wanted to give back to this community and share another possible solution that solved my hard upshifts and whining 4T65E tranny (1999 Regal GS).

My alternator was acting up (flickering lights), had a new battery installed recently too. After reading this article (and being a electrical engineer) I decided to replace the alternator and disconnect the battery cable for a few hours. Well, it did the trick, no more hard upshifing and tranny whine disappeared. I am sure a tranny shop would have soaked me for a rebuild ($2000-3000). Nothing else was done to the tranny.

Tranny is due for a service soon and I plan on using the Seafoam Transtune and Dextron VI in the near future.

Again, thank you all for your detailed posts and input on this subject!!!!

Regards,

cg22

I wanted to give back to this community and share another possible solution that solved my hard upshifts and whining 4T65E tranny (1999 Regal GS).

My alternator was acting up (flickering lights), had a new battery installed recently too. After reading this article (and being a electrical engineer) I decided to replace the alternator and disconnect the battery cable for a few hours. Well, it did the trick, no more hard upshifing and tranny whine disappeared. I am sure a tranny shop would have soaked me for a rebuild ($2000-3000). Nothing else was done to the tranny.

It is due for a service soon and I plan on using the Seafoam Transtune and Dextron VI in the near future.

Again, thank you all for your detailed posts and input on this subject!!!!

Regards,

cg22

It was probably alternator whine, not transmission whine you heard...

It was 100% tranny whine, from under the car......

Best to keep an eye on it. Removing the battery cables will clear DTCs such as P1811. The P1811 setting is what causes the tranny to whine because maximum line pressure is commanded on.

Update: So far to date on my '99 Regal LS with over 236K miles no more P1811, whine or harsh upshifts so the shift kit mod helped. Recently I too had to replace the original alternator. But after replacement picked up a SES light and P0741 DTC. :banghead: The TCC is "stuck off". Basically the TCC is not locking up after it shifts into 4th OD above 45 mph. The rpms are supposed to drop an extra 200 rpms or so. Troubleshot and determined a valve body issue with the TCC-PWM solenoid/valve. TCC-PWM solenoid coil ohms out good (10-12 ohms) and all wiring between the transaxle and PCM module. So adding 8 oz. Seafoam to see if I can get the valve body cleaned out. No plans for a rebuild. As far as driveability it runs a few hundred rpms higher when cruising and noted a minor gas mileage loss as a result.

2003 Buick Century, 87,000 miles
Transmission flushed and filter at 75,000 miles to stop hard shifting. Mechanic stated no codes.

This seemed to work for a short time. Then, it started again.
Sometimes when warm, stop at stop light, start off and bam, shifts and then goes on. Never shifts hard in other gears, just 1-2.
Will the shift kit fix that. Either zzp or transgo?
I plan to use Seafoam for a week, Put in kit, and switch to either Maxlife or Dexron VI.

I am not a mechanic but can do most things.

Thanks for the info,
Michael81240

For those considering replacing the PCS themselves, I've come across information I've not seen in this thread so far, as far as I know from these 12 pages.
I can't remember if this was linked, but it has some good advice:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=705285

However, I would still remove the pinch bolt from the rack.

Also, according to the LeSabre, Boneville, Olds 88 FSM you don't need the engine support. Instead you support from below with a transmission jack. I plan to use jack stands to support everything from the sub frame.

I expect more trouble pulling the axle, as I don't have a slide hammer.