'94 Buick Regal - Problem Starting

I have a '94 Buick Regal Limited with a 3.8 engine. This morning the car hesitated starting and the headlights went dim a couple of times before they stayed bright. Drove about about 10 miles and stopped for gas. After filling-up, the car would not start after a few times. All the indicator lights were blinking and the volts gauge was rapidly moving from 0 to 13. After a few tries, it started and ran okay. I parked at work and during lunch (6 hours later) it did almost the same thing as the gas station, except it took more times before it started. There had been not indicator lights on, except the anti-lock brakes light, which has been going on and off for over a month. Sounds like a component (i.e. starter) is about to go. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,

Dan

First thing I would check is cable connections for corrosion or looseness, sometimes you must look carefully up in the cable to see it.

Checked the cables and they appear to be fine. Had the battery checked and was good, but required a 4 minute charge. Installed back in car, but still the same results.

Did you check the engine/chassis ground side of the cable or the starter cable connections?

I had checked the starter cable connection and it looked tight, but ther was some rust on the threads above the nut. Should I try and remove the cable and wire brush? I will also check the ground lead connection to the chassis.
I will let you know the results tomorrow. Are there any other recommendations while I am under the hood/car?
Thanks,
Dan

The ground to the chassis is tight and no rust. Are there any other recommendations?
Thanks,

Dan

Starter load draw tests same for the battery, cable resistance tests.

I connected the a jumper on the starter solenoid and the engine started. I turned off the car and it would not start. Could the problem be the ignition switch?

If your Regal has two battery cables that come together under a single rubber boot then you need to remove the bolts & rubber boot to clean the corrosion off between the 2 cables.

Do you have a voltmeter?

Yes, there are two wire that come together in a rubber boot. I will take off and clean. I don't have a voltmeter.

I cleaned the connectors and made sure the nut was tight. The engine started strong on first try. I ran it for a minute and turned it off. Tried it a second time a few seconds after turning it off and it started immediately. Put away my tools and was about to let if down, but tried it again (5 minutes after the 2nd start) and it would not start (starter not turning). Waited another 5 minutes and still no start. What should I do now?

Are you sure you got all the corrosion off? I like to use a wire brush on both sides of both the cable ends & the underside of the bolt head. There should also be a spacer in there that I just rub both surfaces on a sheet of sandpaper. I also coat everything with dielectric grease to help prevent the corrosion from coming back.

When starting don't turn the key right to start. Turn it to run & see if the security light is turning off. It should only come on for a few seconds & then turn off. This is assuming your car has the pellet built into the key.

Several years ago, I got tired of screwing around with the OEM side terminal design and decided to upgrade them. First, I cut all the original terminals off and then cut the cables back to an area that was clean and free of corrosion. (about 2-inches) I got some industrial grade copper terminals and soldered the cables inside the terminals. (I had to use a small propane torch to generate enough heat). I then installed gold plated terminal studs in the battery post and mounted the terminals on the studs. Voltage remains constant with engine running, regardless of the number of lights & accessories used. Never had a starting or voltage problem since. :iceslolan



http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/25/p112td9.jpg

Really wire burshed everything (i.e. connectors, nut, battery posts, etc.) and made sure everything was tight. Turned the key to only the on position and all the check lights stayed on and there was a a very faint sound like a fan was on. Then tried to start and started did not turn and heard a clicking sound from ithe glove area. Tried a couple more times and it did the sme. Any recommendations on what to try next?

You need to find out if 12 volts is getting to the small wire on the starter solenoid. You can either buy/borrow a volt meter or rig up a 12 volt test. Then just check for power between the terminal that the small wire is connected to & ground. Meter should show 12+ volts (key to start) or the test light should come on when the key is turned to start.

If you have 12 volts then the starter is most likely bad.

If you don't have 12 volts then it could be the starter relay or park/neutral switch.

Yup, same basic steps as #7, but seldom are they followed.

OK. I am going to look into getting a volt meter this week. Thanks for all the help and recommendations.

i no the battery was tested but.....try jumping with cables on the battery post..still sounds like low voltage

I tried a portable charger and made sure if was fully charged, but the starter never turned. I will try to jump it with car cables.

I purchased a volt meter and tested the small terminal on the solenoid starter. There was no reading on the meter. I jump started the car with cable and it started. Removed the cables and the car started. I then turned on the headlights and the car turned off. Tried to start without the cables and it would not start. Connected the jumper cables and it still would not start. Let it set for a couple of hours and it still would not start with or without cables. Another observation: When I was testing the solenoid, the fuel pump relay was clicking. Also, all the dashboard indicator lights are dim when the ignition is in the on position and the car doesnot start. When the lights are bright, the car starts. I hope this helps.
Thanks,

Dan