Stumped - Finished Swap - Car Won't Start

I just swapped my old D16A6 motor for another D16A6 motor that supposedly doens't burn oil. We just got the swap done, got everything hooked up, and tried starting it - nothing. The engine turns over, but doesn't ignite. I'm getting spark - I checked all the spark plug wires, and I put my old spark plugs in just to see if I would get anything different. No change. I can smell gas after I crank on it for a minute or two, so I'm getting gas. I'm completely stumped. No error codes, nothing. Any ideas anybody.

Nick

do a comp check

Check your timing.Is fuel getting to the injectors?Check your relays if it isn't timing.

check the ignition system my integ did that when i did a tune up same prob starter turns gas getting there but no fire it was the Ignition Coil. Easy to fix lil costly though at 80 bucks for mine (compared to other coils)

make sure everything is grounded properly--- a bad ground will cause u tons of problems

It sounds morel like timing, the sparks are going he said do the electrical is not the cause. It could also be the computer if its screwed up it might retard or advance timing so much it doesnt work.

there is lots of reasons that it could not start i would check your intake manifold and your timing. i would say most likely timing but your timing could be off for a few reasons. your cams could be rotated a little or your ECU could throw it off. i would say if you didnt mess with your cam gears when you put on the belt it is rotated cams

Sounds like the timming belt has been moved or has slipped. Check that and make sure it is put on right. Look at a shop manual for the car it will tell you how to line up the markings on the cam gear with the positon of the crank shaft.

You should check the distrubutor rotor bolt, because my Rex did the exact same thing. And finally the Honda Dealership replaced that and it started fine.

i just want to say to whtteg if you have nitrous and a built engine or partially built, and those mods, you should be running faster then that, you need to get into detail with your tuning.

Originally posted by 94delsolSI
i just want to say to whtteg if you have nitrous and a built engine or partially built, and those mods, you should be running faster then that, you need to get into detail with your tuning.

My internals are not built and the clutch is slipping b/c of the 115Kmiles and I am only spraying a 55hp shot. The ITR parts are in a box waiting on some new rods, pistons, and crankshaft, before I install the ITR parts.

check if the map senor is hook up, and it might be vapor locked. pour little gas in each cylinder and then crank it

mine was doing the exact same thing the other day. Replace your cap and rotor. Solved my problems.

My girlfreinds D16A6 had the exact same problem and everything was replaced. Believe it or not the only thing we needed to do was step on the gas and keep on the ignition for about a min or so and it should eventually catch. My mechanic said these motors can tend to "flood" (term used loosely) or basically have build up in the intake manifold and by staying on the starter and gas it will clear it out and then start right up. This problem is kinda rare but if everything else checks out this may be your problem. Good luck

Not that I've ever done this (heh), but... I'll bet my money that the distributor rotor is backwards!

I've found that it's very common for people in haste to forget how the 4-cycle engine works. A full drive cycle of the engine is 720 degrees - TWO rotations. So, during the normal drive cycle, your crank will reach TDC *twice*. If you mistakenly see TDC and set up your distributor while cylinder 1 is in exhaust-stroke, your engine will spin and spin and spin, but *never* start, and probably never even stumble (as the exhaust valve will be open every time the plug fires).

To fix:
1. Remove all 4 spark plugs and throw them away.
2. Pop off your valve cover.
3. Unhook power to the distributor coil.
4. rotate the crank to TDC.
5. Make sure that all 4 valves on cylinder 1 are in their full-up position. If they are not, spin that crank another 360 degrees. Then they should all be closed.
6. take off the distributor cap and spin the rotor to about 15 degrees past Cylinder 1's wire spot on the distrib. cap. Exact degrees don't matter too much at this point. Just don't rev your motor too high! Keep in mind that the distributor rotor spins in the same rotation as your wheels (top-forward, bottom-backward).
7. Put the rotor, valve cover and distributor power (to the coil) back on.
8. Replace all 4 spark plugs. By now some of the excess gas in the cylinders should have evaporated.
9. Try to start the car. With any luck, the distributor timing was the problem.
10. Change your oil IMMEDIATELY afterwards. You will find at least 1 quart of gas in your oil from all of your starting endeavours. Be careful! The oil is so thin that it will SHOOT out of the drain bolt like a super-soaker!
11. Now that you no longer have a horrible fire hazard inside your oil pan, get a timing light and set your distributor timing to your favorite setting. If in doubt, follow Honda's timing spec for the D16a6.

it could be a crank angle sensor not sending the pulse signal to the injector. they will get the initial bust when you turn the car on but nothing after