Heater Core - A/C Evap
Kitt1993
04-05-2008, 07:28 AM
Hello again guys. I was told several different stories and need to know which is true. I was under the impression that the case that holds the heater core and Evap are the same unit. Then I was told that they are seperate and are not connected. So my question is can I take the dash out, replace the heater core, put it all back together, and do the Evap later WITHOUT having to take the dash out again. And if not, are there some bolts that I need to removed from inside the dash that hold the Evap box in place? Thanks,
Bryan
Bryan
junk yard doggie
04-05-2008, 08:49 AM
Hello Bryan
There are some parts that connect the inside box to the outside box. I would replace both cores while in there, It would save you a lot of effort. What is wrong with the evap. core, those don't usually go bad like the heater cores.
There are some parts that connect the inside box to the outside box. I would replace both cores while in there, It would save you a lot of effort. What is wrong with the evap. core, those don't usually go bad like the heater cores.
Kitt1993
04-05-2008, 04:26 PM
Hey Mike
Well, I decided to do the heater core, Evap, Condensor, Drier, Orfice filter, all line and most likely the compressor (<--again). Just doesn't blow cold enough for me. bounces between 48-51. What I was trying to decide is if I dont have enough time to do the Evap, and if there are no bolts or wires that needed to be removed from the inside, then I could do the heater core now, and then do the evap later.. I also have to figure out whats "clicking" when I turn on the washer pump form behind the dash, fix the shift selector, replace the bulbs inside the EATC Head, and in the idiot lights for the oil, brake etc and unplug the PCM and open to check for electrical burn smell.. Also want to check the GEM box to make sure its in good condition..
BTW I was told that you can reprogram the EATC to a lower setting so it will keep the compressor on longer thus making it colder. Any truth to this?
Any suggestions?
Bryan
Well, I decided to do the heater core, Evap, Condensor, Drier, Orfice filter, all line and most likely the compressor (<--again). Just doesn't blow cold enough for me. bounces between 48-51. What I was trying to decide is if I dont have enough time to do the Evap, and if there are no bolts or wires that needed to be removed from the inside, then I could do the heater core now, and then do the evap later.. I also have to figure out whats "clicking" when I turn on the washer pump form behind the dash, fix the shift selector, replace the bulbs inside the EATC Head, and in the idiot lights for the oil, brake etc and unplug the PCM and open to check for electrical burn smell.. Also want to check the GEM box to make sure its in good condition..
BTW I was told that you can reprogram the EATC to a lower setting so it will keep the compressor on longer thus making it colder. Any truth to this?
Any suggestions?
Bryan
danielsatur
04-05-2008, 07:11 PM
1) How old is the car?
2) Was this car converted from R12 to 134a?
Note: If the Heater core is bad,you might want to check that tube going through the middle of
Intake that connects to the heat core too!
Also - Cleaning the Air cond condenser,it's in frnt of radiator will really improve Air condition.
Dirt,bugs,and leaves will plug up the core.
Make sure engine fan is working on fast speed during Air-cond cooling too!
MCGIVER
2) Was this car converted from R12 to 134a?
Note: If the Heater core is bad,you might want to check that tube going through the middle of
Intake that connects to the heat core too!
Also - Cleaning the Air cond condenser,it's in frnt of radiator will really improve Air condition.
Dirt,bugs,and leaves will plug up the core.
Make sure engine fan is working on fast speed during Air-cond cooling too!
MCGIVER
Kitt1993
04-05-2008, 11:19 PM
Its a 95 so it has R134A. There are a lot of miles, and thats another item that I am going to replace....
Bryan
Bryan
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