B16a1 owners... I NEED YOR HELP!!

Ok, this is my problem... This morning I walk to my car, and turn it on. I notice that as soon as I turn the car on that I have a check engine light on. Last night when I parked my car after I got off of work, I did not have the light on, and the car was running fine. So, I though to myself that I will fix it later. Well, I try driving out my driveway, and the car spits and sputters when I step on the gas pedal and almost stalls out. If you ease on to the gas pedal, it will slowly accelerate, but it will only go to 3,000 RPM and no firthe and the car starts to make like a back fireing noise. My dad is a mechanic, and he says that he thinks I have a fuel pressure problem. My dad says that if it is a fuel pressure problem, then it would not throw a check engine light. He also said that I should replace the fuel filter before going any firther. I checked the cap and rotor and they are fine, because I thought it could be a spark problem, but it does not seem like it. If anyone here has had the same problem with there B16a1, and has fixed it, or knows what the problem is, PLEASE let me know a.s.a.p. I have heard form some people a while ago that JDM motors throw different signals in there check engine lights then the USDM engines. If anyone knows a websites that have JDM engine codes, please let me know. Thanx a lot for your help.

I'm no expert but ur problem sounds just like the problem i had with my mercedes.....
i parked it friday after work... got in it monday morning & it started weird then i couldnt get it to rev over 2500 rpm. I drove it 20mph to a shop & $100 later they told me that I or the person b4 me had got some gas with water in it & it had slowly rusted out my FI system internally & was gonna cost 2 or 3 thousand to fix...
Needless to say i sold it to a junk dealer for $950 so he could swap parts from it.

Try replacing the Fuel Filter & go from there.

sounds like u need a whole new distributor. Mine did that and i had to replace the distributor. Check the codes on ur ecu.

Crack in the Dizzy cap would be the first suspect, closely followed by a stuffed dizzy. Good luck on sorting it :)

my dizzy died like that too, id check that first.

I highly doubt it to be my distributor. I checked the cap and rotor and they are fine, I replaced them about a month ago, so they got to be fine. I am getting spark, and the car is turning over. I replaced the fuel filter, and it is still NOT working. My dad says that the fuel pump is not getting power to it. We tested the main relay and the main relay is fine, so that is not it. I checked the fuses, and all fuses are fine. The only thing that me and my dad think that it messing up would be the ECU. There is a little red light that is ON inside that ECU, but does not flash. Does that fuel system go through the ECU???? Does anyone know where that fuel pump relay or a fuse that goes to the fuel pump located???? Does anyone know where there ia a website that has the "Check Engine" light codes for my JDM motor? I heard that US motors have different codes that flash than the JDM motors. Any help would be GREATLY APPERECIATTED. Thanx.

Just because u replaced the cap and rotor doesn't mean it solved the problem. I replaced the coil and it started up and everything. A week later it died. SO what i did is that i replaced a whole new distributor.


Code System

Code 1 (1 flash) Oxygen content

Code 3 or 5 Manifold absolute pressure

Code 4 (4 flashes) Crank angle sensor

Code 6 (6 flashes) Coolant temperature

Code 7 (7 flashes) Throttle angle

Code 8 (8 flashes) TDC position (top dead center) timing

Code 9 (9 flashes) No. 1 cylinder position (1.6L)

Code 10 (10 flashes) Intake air temperature

Code 12(12 flashes) No code 11 don't know why. Exhaust gas recirculation system

Code 13 (13 flashes) Atmospheric pressure

Code 14 (14 flashes) Electronic air control (EACV)

Code 15 (15 flashes) Ignition output signal

Code 16 (16 flashes) Fuel injector

Code 17 (17flashes) Vehicle speed sensor

Code 19 (19 flashes) No code 18 for some reason Lock up control solenoid valve

Code 20 (20 flashes) Electric Load

Mellow, are those codes for a JDM B16a1 motor? Plus, my little red light inside the ECU DOES NOT FLASH at all, it just stays on. I also replaced the ignition coil the same time I replaced the cap and rotor.

When I started this thread, the car would start, but idle funny. The next day the car just wont start now... thats why I am saying that it is the fuel pump. Again, I am not getting any power to the fuel pump. My dad and I took off one of the lines running to the fuel pump, and put it in a milk jug. Then, I turned the car to the "ON" position, and my dad said that no fuel gushes out, like it should. SO, I know it has something to do with the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or maybe something in the ECU. I am sooooo stumped. :confused:

Yeh those codes are the same as any obd0. If you think its the fuel pump try replacing it. About ur ecu i'm thinkin that its normal. Not sure about that.

A solid red light on the ecu means it is cooked. The ecu should blink a couple times on startup and when there is an error code. If the ecu is working properly it will only blink on startup while the CEL is on. Sounds to me like it is time for a new ecu. See if you can borrow a good ecu. It doesn't hae to be a b16 ecu just one that runs mpfi ie 88-91 civic/crx si ecu or a zc ecu or even an 89 integra ecu. Just find one that will start the car and then that will tell you for certain if the ecu is dead.

91ZC... I think that your right, the ECU is done. My dad and I ran a jumper wire to make the fuel pump get power. The pump is working now, so the question about the fuel pump not working is out. The pump is good.

Now, when all of this started to happen to the car, it was rining outside. And when it did not run properly, I pulled my car into the garage and my dad and I proceded to look at it. One of the very first things we saw was water on the ECU, and the red light on.

My dad and I finally narrowed it down to the ECU, and he said that it is probly bad. Right after he said that I told him I was going to get on the computer and check to see if anyone has said anything about my situation. Sure enough, you said the ECU might be cooked, and I think it is. At least my dad thinks so, and you do. I found out I have a PWO ECU. Now when I get a new ECU, should I get a PWO or a PR3???? I heard that PR3 ECU's will work sice my car is OBD0.

Thank you 91ZC and everyone that has helped me out. Everyones advice has helped me out sooooooo much. I will let you guys know if it is the ECU for sure (which my dad and I think it is). Again, thank you guys for your input. You guys ROCK! :sun:

I would get a PR3 if possible. It is easier to get it reprogrammed if you are thinking of doing that. Yeah, water and the ecu will not mix especially if somehow water got inside the ecu box. Good Luck getting the problem fixed.:)