A couple of questions
wreckinisracin
03-29-2008, 12:41 AM
Hey all. I recently got into car modeling but really haven't started yet, just spending some hours reading up on it. Anyway, I have a few questions(some are really newbish), it would be great if you could help answer them. I've read the FAQ and other threads. The kit is Revell Acura RSX Type-S.
1. About the sanding process, do you reuse the same sheet of sand paper over and over again, after you apply the primer? And, would there be anything wrong with applying primer, then sanding, and applying primer again, then sanding again? And is a gray primer fine for most models?
2. I've read alot of posts where people say they use an airbrush to paint smaller parts of the model, will a regular paint brush have the same effect as an airbrush and what are some that you would recommend from places like Home Depot and Lowes? Do you just put in paint in the airbrush, or do you have to buy some kind of filler?
3. Also, adding onto that last question, when would it be appropriate to use a spraycan(for larger parts I assume)? So really brushes should just be suggested for fine detail and airbrushes for smaller-medium parts?
4. Lastly, I only have enamel paint. Should I buy acrylic paint because enamel is considered more useful for fine detail?
thanks
1. About the sanding process, do you reuse the same sheet of sand paper over and over again, after you apply the primer? And, would there be anything wrong with applying primer, then sanding, and applying primer again, then sanding again? And is a gray primer fine for most models?
2. I've read alot of posts where people say they use an airbrush to paint smaller parts of the model, will a regular paint brush have the same effect as an airbrush and what are some that you would recommend from places like Home Depot and Lowes? Do you just put in paint in the airbrush, or do you have to buy some kind of filler?
3. Also, adding onto that last question, when would it be appropriate to use a spraycan(for larger parts I assume)? So really brushes should just be suggested for fine detail and airbrushes for smaller-medium parts?
4. Lastly, I only have enamel paint. Should I buy acrylic paint because enamel is considered more useful for fine detail?
thanks
cyberkid
03-29-2008, 01:03 AM
Hi and welcome,
1.About the sanding process, do you reuse the same sheet of sand paper over and over again, after you apply the primer?
Basically no, you will be able to see where the sandpaper is 'clogged'. I only use the unclogged parts. If you use sandpaper that has a lot of paint residue on it, you will end up scratching the paint more rather than smoothening it.
And, would there be anything wrong with applying primer, then sanding, and applying primer again, then sanding again?
No problem at all, this is the only way you can get a part to your satisfaction. Just make sure you rinse off the paint dust from your model after each round of sanding and make sure it's dry before you re-primer.
And is a gray primer fine for most models?This soley depends on the paint you are using. If the color is somewhat transparent, ie: yellow, red, blue, white. you should use white. The primer affects the final color when the final color isn't opaque enough. Common modeling primers are gray and white, but you can always mix up your own primer color. Ie: Ferrari uses pink on their red cars.
2. I've read alot of posts where people say they use an airbrush to paint smaller parts of the model, will a regular paint brush have the same effect as an airbrush
This depends on what look you are going for. Personally, if it more than a couple mm's square, then I'll AB it. Brushing leaves brush marks and is somewhat uneven. So, no ABing and brushing have different effects on paint.
and what are some that you would recommend from places like Home Depot and Lowes?
Not sure what you are looking for here?
Do you just put in paint in the airbrush, or do you have to buy some kind of filler?
I'm not sure what you mean by filler, but you have to thin the paint for it to be Ab'ed properly.
3. Also, adding onto that last question, when would it be appropriate to use a spraycan(for larger parts I assume)?
Perfectly ok, a lot of people don't like to use a AB and they turn to rattle can's instead. Thing is that there are just that many types of colors in rattle cans and you get a whole lot more control when using an AB.
So really brushes should just be suggested for fine detail and airbrushes for smaller-medium parts?
Again, personal preferance. But, imo, yes. Anything that's larger then a few mm's square I AB.
4. Lastly, I only have enamel paint. Should I buy acrylic paint because enamel is considered more useful for fine detail?
For small detail painting enamel is fine. Just keep in mind of the characteristics of the different types of paints.
Enamel: slow drying, glossier finish, easy to brush, extremely long cure time.
Acrylic: fast drying, flatter finish, hard to brush, fast cure time.
Each type of paint has many more characteristics, best way is to buy a bit of each and test it out.
Which is best and which is worst? All opinions. Differs from person to person.
HTH,
Steve
1.About the sanding process, do you reuse the same sheet of sand paper over and over again, after you apply the primer?
Basically no, you will be able to see where the sandpaper is 'clogged'. I only use the unclogged parts. If you use sandpaper that has a lot of paint residue on it, you will end up scratching the paint more rather than smoothening it.
And, would there be anything wrong with applying primer, then sanding, and applying primer again, then sanding again?
No problem at all, this is the only way you can get a part to your satisfaction. Just make sure you rinse off the paint dust from your model after each round of sanding and make sure it's dry before you re-primer.
And is a gray primer fine for most models?This soley depends on the paint you are using. If the color is somewhat transparent, ie: yellow, red, blue, white. you should use white. The primer affects the final color when the final color isn't opaque enough. Common modeling primers are gray and white, but you can always mix up your own primer color. Ie: Ferrari uses pink on their red cars.
2. I've read alot of posts where people say they use an airbrush to paint smaller parts of the model, will a regular paint brush have the same effect as an airbrush
This depends on what look you are going for. Personally, if it more than a couple mm's square, then I'll AB it. Brushing leaves brush marks and is somewhat uneven. So, no ABing and brushing have different effects on paint.
and what are some that you would recommend from places like Home Depot and Lowes?
Not sure what you are looking for here?
Do you just put in paint in the airbrush, or do you have to buy some kind of filler?
I'm not sure what you mean by filler, but you have to thin the paint for it to be Ab'ed properly.
3. Also, adding onto that last question, when would it be appropriate to use a spraycan(for larger parts I assume)?
Perfectly ok, a lot of people don't like to use a AB and they turn to rattle can's instead. Thing is that there are just that many types of colors in rattle cans and you get a whole lot more control when using an AB.
So really brushes should just be suggested for fine detail and airbrushes for smaller-medium parts?
Again, personal preferance. But, imo, yes. Anything that's larger then a few mm's square I AB.
4. Lastly, I only have enamel paint. Should I buy acrylic paint because enamel is considered more useful for fine detail?
For small detail painting enamel is fine. Just keep in mind of the characteristics of the different types of paints.
Enamel: slow drying, glossier finish, easy to brush, extremely long cure time.
Acrylic: fast drying, flatter finish, hard to brush, fast cure time.
Each type of paint has many more characteristics, best way is to buy a bit of each and test it out.
Which is best and which is worst? All opinions. Differs from person to person.
HTH,
Steve
tonioseven
03-29-2008, 09:57 AM
If you sand, wetsanding is a great idea. I clean the sandpaper with an old toothbrush so I can reuse it.
Adam Baker
03-29-2008, 10:26 AM
For an airbrush your best bet would be to look either at somewhere such as Hobby Lobby or Michaels, or your local hobby shops if you have any. Ive also heard that Harbor Freight has a few cheaper AB's that work ok for the beginner.
Didymus
03-29-2008, 12:27 PM
You've gotten some great advice so far. I hope you'll also find this useful:
1. About the sanding process, do you reuse the same sheet of sand paper over and over again, after you apply the primer? And, would there be anything wrong with applying primer, then sanding, and applying primer again, then sanding again? And is a gray primer fine for most models?
Wet sanding is the way to go; 800 grit wet-or-dry is fine for sanding primer. Rinse frequently and unclog it now and then with a stiff brush. Eventually the grit will lose its grittiness and you'll have to change paper.
One or two primer coats are usually sufficient, but be sure to get full coverage, especially if you plan to use lacquer for your color coats. Lacquer hates plastic and will ruin the surface, but too many primer coats can hide detail and soften the crisp look of the model.
Some of us use a grey primer coat so we can easily see and remove any irregularities, then a white primer coat if we are painting the model red or a light color. (Most paint, and especially light colored paint, is somewhat translucent.)
2. I've read alot of posts where people say they use an airbrush to paint smaller parts of the model, will a regular paint brush have the same effect as an airbrush and what are some that you would recommend from places like Home Depot and Lowes? Do you just put in paint in the airbrush, or do you have to buy some kind of filler?
For tiny parts, it can be hard to tell the difference between traditional brushing (with the right paint) and airbrushing.
No "filler" is required for airbrushing; in fact, most paint should be thinned quite a bit for AB'ing.
From HD and Lowe's? Lacquer thinner for thinning decanted lacquer, and for clean-up. "It's the solvent of a gazillion uses - but don't spill any on your model!" Also get some Soft Scrub from your supermarket. Used with a toothbrush, it's the ticket for prepping plastic bodies before priming. And while you're at it, buy a new toothbrush! (Your old one will become a very handy tool.)
3. Also, adding onto that last question, when would it be appropriate to use a spraycan (for larger parts I assume)? So really brushes should just be suggested for fine detail and airbrushes for smaller-medium parts?
Good spray nozzles like Tamiya's will work well for most things, but I still prefer to use an airbrush for car bodies - except for the primer stage. Spray cans blow out way too much paint; never use one indoors. With an airbrush, it's easier to adjust thickness and wetness of the coat - nice if you want to reduce orange peel and keep polishing to a minimum, but not essential.
4. Lastly, I only have enamel paint. Should I buy acrylic paint because enamel is considered more useful for fine detail?
Enamel is the most difficult paint to use for large areas. It takes decades to dry and attracts dust like a magnet. Some modelers hate it. I am one of those modelers.
For small parts, I like Tamiya acrylics, but only if thinned a bit with Tamiya thinner for acrylics. It slows drying and minimizes brushmarks.
For most spray work, I prefer to decant Tamiya's synthetic lacquers - the TS series that comes in spray cans. They dry fast, are easy to polish, and the TS13 clear can be used over just about anything - but don't put it or any other lacquer on top of enamel!!!
To get started, I recommend putting the airbrush purchase on hold and using Tamiya spray cans for everything. Go with a TS Series kit - primer, base (aka color coat), clear and then Tamiya compounds for the polishing stage. Their stuff is especially made for plastic models. Everything will work together so you won't have any incompatibility problems. With that combination, it's hard to screw up.
Good luck and enjoy!
Ddms
1. About the sanding process, do you reuse the same sheet of sand paper over and over again, after you apply the primer? And, would there be anything wrong with applying primer, then sanding, and applying primer again, then sanding again? And is a gray primer fine for most models?
Wet sanding is the way to go; 800 grit wet-or-dry is fine for sanding primer. Rinse frequently and unclog it now and then with a stiff brush. Eventually the grit will lose its grittiness and you'll have to change paper.
One or two primer coats are usually sufficient, but be sure to get full coverage, especially if you plan to use lacquer for your color coats. Lacquer hates plastic and will ruin the surface, but too many primer coats can hide detail and soften the crisp look of the model.
Some of us use a grey primer coat so we can easily see and remove any irregularities, then a white primer coat if we are painting the model red or a light color. (Most paint, and especially light colored paint, is somewhat translucent.)
2. I've read alot of posts where people say they use an airbrush to paint smaller parts of the model, will a regular paint brush have the same effect as an airbrush and what are some that you would recommend from places like Home Depot and Lowes? Do you just put in paint in the airbrush, or do you have to buy some kind of filler?
For tiny parts, it can be hard to tell the difference between traditional brushing (with the right paint) and airbrushing.
No "filler" is required for airbrushing; in fact, most paint should be thinned quite a bit for AB'ing.
From HD and Lowe's? Lacquer thinner for thinning decanted lacquer, and for clean-up. "It's the solvent of a gazillion uses - but don't spill any on your model!" Also get some Soft Scrub from your supermarket. Used with a toothbrush, it's the ticket for prepping plastic bodies before priming. And while you're at it, buy a new toothbrush! (Your old one will become a very handy tool.)
3. Also, adding onto that last question, when would it be appropriate to use a spraycan (for larger parts I assume)? So really brushes should just be suggested for fine detail and airbrushes for smaller-medium parts?
Good spray nozzles like Tamiya's will work well for most things, but I still prefer to use an airbrush for car bodies - except for the primer stage. Spray cans blow out way too much paint; never use one indoors. With an airbrush, it's easier to adjust thickness and wetness of the coat - nice if you want to reduce orange peel and keep polishing to a minimum, but not essential.
4. Lastly, I only have enamel paint. Should I buy acrylic paint because enamel is considered more useful for fine detail?
Enamel is the most difficult paint to use for large areas. It takes decades to dry and attracts dust like a magnet. Some modelers hate it. I am one of those modelers.
For small parts, I like Tamiya acrylics, but only if thinned a bit with Tamiya thinner for acrylics. It slows drying and minimizes brushmarks.
For most spray work, I prefer to decant Tamiya's synthetic lacquers - the TS series that comes in spray cans. They dry fast, are easy to polish, and the TS13 clear can be used over just about anything - but don't put it or any other lacquer on top of enamel!!!
To get started, I recommend putting the airbrush purchase on hold and using Tamiya spray cans for everything. Go with a TS Series kit - primer, base (aka color coat), clear and then Tamiya compounds for the polishing stage. Their stuff is especially made for plastic models. Everything will work together so you won't have any incompatibility problems. With that combination, it's hard to screw up.
Good luck and enjoy!
Ddms
wreckinisracin
03-29-2008, 12:40 PM
thanks for the help everyone.
Do you have a link to a TS Series kit that can be brought online? I can only find individual colors? Thanks.
Also when you are doing the primer, you spray the interior as well right?
Do you have a link to a TS Series kit that can be brought online? I can only find individual colors? Thanks.
Also when you are doing the primer, you spray the interior as well right?
cyberkid
03-29-2008, 12:53 PM
For most spray work, I prefer to decant Tamiya's synthetic lacquers - the TS series that comes in spray cans. They dry fast, are easy to polish, and the TS13 clear can be used over just about anything - but don't put it or any other lacquer on top of enamel!!!
To get started, I recommend putting the airbrush purchase on hold and using Tamiya spray cans for everything. Go with a TS Series kit - primer, base (aka color coat), clear and then Tamiya compounds for the polishing stage. Their stuff is especially made for plastic models. Everything will work together so you won't have any incompatibility problems. With that combination, it's hard to screw up.
Adding on to this post↑:
https://tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=289
near the end of this link↑
you will find a graph that shows what paint can go over what.
Of course there are poeple who have succeeded in going againts the rules and say for example put lacquer over enamel, but luck is a high factor, so I wouldn't suggest trying it.
Again agreeing with Didymus, don't go running off to buy an AB right away. An AB+compressor is a high priced investment, well worth it, but not until you are SURE you want to keep modeling long term. I went through about 20 models before making the dive.
So, get yourself some TS cans and have fun. Be sure to post some of your work, or at least ask around to see where you can improve. I've spent a few years on this forum and the people here are great and are very willing to teach. My modeling skills have improved at least 5 fold after I started reading the articles here.
I hope you don't take this the wrong way, the following is meant to be encouragement:
Just keep in mind that your first models will not look like those made by some of the members here, heck... after 3~4 years here I'm still miles from where they are. I like one of the sig's I've seen here: "There's a lesson in every kit."
With every new model you get better.
I think back to the models I made a few years ago and I am extremely thankful for this forum! (Shout-out to everyone who posts here: THANK YOU!!!) :)
thanks for the help everyone.
Do you have a link to a TS Series kit that can be brought online? I can only find individual colors? Thanks.
Also when you are doing the primer, you spray the interior as well right?
http://www.scalewiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Where_can_I_buy_model_cars_online% 3F
Here's a list to start. I personally use LHS's for Tamiya stuff, but I shop a lot at www.Hiroboy.com who's owner is also a mod here (screen name Hiroboy).
About the priming part, this is also preference. I personally prime everything that's not transparent. Some only prime the body.
To get started, I recommend putting the airbrush purchase on hold and using Tamiya spray cans for everything. Go with a TS Series kit - primer, base (aka color coat), clear and then Tamiya compounds for the polishing stage. Their stuff is especially made for plastic models. Everything will work together so you won't have any incompatibility problems. With that combination, it's hard to screw up.
Adding on to this post↑:
https://tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=289
near the end of this link↑
you will find a graph that shows what paint can go over what.
Of course there are poeple who have succeeded in going againts the rules and say for example put lacquer over enamel, but luck is a high factor, so I wouldn't suggest trying it.
Again agreeing with Didymus, don't go running off to buy an AB right away. An AB+compressor is a high priced investment, well worth it, but not until you are SURE you want to keep modeling long term. I went through about 20 models before making the dive.
So, get yourself some TS cans and have fun. Be sure to post some of your work, or at least ask around to see where you can improve. I've spent a few years on this forum and the people here are great and are very willing to teach. My modeling skills have improved at least 5 fold after I started reading the articles here.
I hope you don't take this the wrong way, the following is meant to be encouragement:
Just keep in mind that your first models will not look like those made by some of the members here, heck... after 3~4 years here I'm still miles from where they are. I like one of the sig's I've seen here: "There's a lesson in every kit."
With every new model you get better.
I think back to the models I made a few years ago and I am extremely thankful for this forum! (Shout-out to everyone who posts here: THANK YOU!!!) :)
thanks for the help everyone.
Do you have a link to a TS Series kit that can be brought online? I can only find individual colors? Thanks.
Also when you are doing the primer, you spray the interior as well right?
http://www.scalewiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Where_can_I_buy_model_cars_online% 3F
Here's a list to start. I personally use LHS's for Tamiya stuff, but I shop a lot at www.Hiroboy.com who's owner is also a mod here (screen name Hiroboy).
About the priming part, this is also preference. I personally prime everything that's not transparent. Some only prime the body.
Didymus
03-29-2008, 01:36 PM
thanks for the help everyone.
Do you have a link to a TS Series kit that can be brought online? I can only find individual colors? Thanks.
Also when you are doing the primer, you spray the interior as well right?
Sorry for the confusion. By "kit," I meant a collection of individual paints. I don't know of any official Tamiya TS-series painting kits.
For a single model, you'll need one spray-can each of:
-- Grey Primer-Surfacer(L)
-- White Primer-Surfacer(L) if you intend to paint the Acura a light color
-- body color
-- TS-13 Clear Coat (optional - use sparingly to protect decals and for a higher gloss finish)
Sure, use the grey primer to prime the interior! I don't know what color the Acura's interior is - it's most likely semi-gloss black. If it's primed with the Tamiya primer-surfacer(L), you can finish it with anything. I'm probably over-doing it, but I put a coat of primer on anything that might be eventually be painted with TS-series paint.
Ddms
Do you have a link to a TS Series kit that can be brought online? I can only find individual colors? Thanks.
Also when you are doing the primer, you spray the interior as well right?
Sorry for the confusion. By "kit," I meant a collection of individual paints. I don't know of any official Tamiya TS-series painting kits.
For a single model, you'll need one spray-can each of:
-- Grey Primer-Surfacer(L)
-- White Primer-Surfacer(L) if you intend to paint the Acura a light color
-- body color
-- TS-13 Clear Coat (optional - use sparingly to protect decals and for a higher gloss finish)
Sure, use the grey primer to prime the interior! I don't know what color the Acura's interior is - it's most likely semi-gloss black. If it's primed with the Tamiya primer-surfacer(L), you can finish it with anything. I'm probably over-doing it, but I put a coat of primer on anything that might be eventually be painted with TS-series paint.
Ddms
cyberkid
03-30-2008, 03:22 AM
Sorry for the confusion. By "kit," I meant a collection of individual paints. I don't know of any official Tamiya TS-series painting kits.
For a single model, you'll need one spray-can each of:
-- Grey Primer-Surfacer(L)
-- White Primer-Surfacer(L) if you intend to paint the Acura a light color
-- body color
-- TS-13 Clear Coat (optional - use sparingly to protect decals and for a higher gloss finish)
Sure, use the grey primer to prime the interior! I don't know what color the Acura's interior is - it's most likely semi-gloss black. If it's primed with the Tamiya primer-surfacer(L), you can finish it with anything. I'm probably over-doing it, but I put a coat of primer on anything that might be eventually be painted with TS-series paint.
Ddms
Be sure to get the fine version of Tamiya gray primers, the cans that don't have the word "Fine" on them are pretty coarse. Mainly used for filling deep scratches and to add thickness, kinda like liquid putty.
This is the coarse version:
http://www.hobbylinc.com/gr/tam/tam87042.jpg
The Fine version:
http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/images/TAM87042.jpg
The white primer for all I know only has the 'fine' version.
http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/images/tam87044.jpg
For a single model, you'll need one spray-can each of:
-- Grey Primer-Surfacer(L)
-- White Primer-Surfacer(L) if you intend to paint the Acura a light color
-- body color
-- TS-13 Clear Coat (optional - use sparingly to protect decals and for a higher gloss finish)
Sure, use the grey primer to prime the interior! I don't know what color the Acura's interior is - it's most likely semi-gloss black. If it's primed with the Tamiya primer-surfacer(L), you can finish it with anything. I'm probably over-doing it, but I put a coat of primer on anything that might be eventually be painted with TS-series paint.
Ddms
Be sure to get the fine version of Tamiya gray primers, the cans that don't have the word "Fine" on them are pretty coarse. Mainly used for filling deep scratches and to add thickness, kinda like liquid putty.
This is the coarse version:
http://www.hobbylinc.com/gr/tam/tam87042.jpg
The Fine version:
http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/images/TAM87042.jpg
The white primer for all I know only has the 'fine' version.
http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/images/tam87044.jpg
Didymus
03-30-2008, 12:01 PM
Be sure to get the fine version of Tamiya gray primers, the cans that don't have the word "Fine" on them are pretty coarse.http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/tamr8744.jpg
I've used only the gray primer that doesn't say "Fine." IMO, it's about the same density as the "Fine" white primer, and not nearly as thick as "high solids" automotive primer. Seems to be just right for models.
I haven't seen a Tamiya grey surface primer that says "Fine." Then again, I haven't felt a need to look for it.
Any idea what the "L" stands for?
Ddms
I've used only the gray primer that doesn't say "Fine." IMO, it's about the same density as the "Fine" white primer, and not nearly as thick as "high solids" automotive primer. Seems to be just right for models.
I haven't seen a Tamiya grey surface primer that says "Fine." Then again, I haven't felt a need to look for it.
Any idea what the "L" stands for?
Ddms
cyberkid
03-30-2008, 12:21 PM
I've used only the gray primer that doesn't say "Fine." IMO, it's about the same density as the "Fine" white primer, and not nearly as thick as "high solids" automotive primer. Seems to be just right for models.
I haven't seen a Tamiya grey surface primer that says "Fine." Then again, I haven't felt a need to look for it.
Any idea what the "L" stands for?
Ddms
The L is for Large. They used to sell smaller cans 100ml.
http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM87026
I'm not sure if they are still in production though.
I'll post a pic of the 2 different grays tomorrow... its 1.20 AM right now :uhoh:
I haven't seen a Tamiya grey surface primer that says "Fine." Then again, I haven't felt a need to look for it.
Any idea what the "L" stands for?
Ddms
The L is for Large. They used to sell smaller cans 100ml.
http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM87026
I'm not sure if they are still in production though.
I'll post a pic of the 2 different grays tomorrow... its 1.20 AM right now :uhoh:
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