64 valiant
Firebirdlad03
03-27-2008, 08:52 PM
We just got a 64 valiant and 2 days ago we got a 318. The plan is to get rid of the 225 and put in the 318. Is there anyone on here that did the same thing. We would need to get rid of the steering box and put in a custom rack and pinion steering. The stock little torsion bars aint gunna work so what could we use instead? We would like to find the whole setup from a different car. I would like some pictures of what other people did. and different ideas are very much appreciated!
PS. sorry mods if there is a better place to put this move it there.
PS. sorry mods if there is a better place to put this move it there.
Twidget
04-11-2008, 02:18 PM
What transmission is in the car?
If it's a manual, you can change the bell housing/ clutch. If it's an automatic, you will need a complete V8 Transmission. The torque converter pocket in the end of the crank changed in 1967. Torque converter adaption or replacement needs to be considered when crossing that line in either direction.
The K-Frame is different. The mounts are different.
You need to know which torsion bars are in it. They may be adequate. 891/893 bars were the V8/Slant Six bars in later cars. If they are any smaller, you will need to get bigger diameter ones. (Unless your drag racing, then the small ones are often used.)
Why are you putting the 318 in there? A lot of people do, but the 225 has a lot of potential, and can deliver considerably better economy, even built up.
The 318 is considerably heavier also, so the handling of the car will be more of an issue. Your car will probably have a 7-1/4" rear axle. SBP wheels, and is likely to have drum brakes in the corners. (This is not always the case, but is most likely with a factory /6 car.)
If you aren't planning to upgrade to LBP, an 8-1/4" or 8-3/4" and a disk brake setup, keep to a 2bbl 318 setup. You may still have issues with the relatively weak rear end. You won't break it with a slant six till you pass into the extreme engine builds.
Rear end swaps are easiest if you find a rear end out of an A-body, but other's can be cut/adapted to fit.
For options on the Slant Six, check out www.slantsix.org (http://www.slantsix.org)
Twidget
If it's a manual, you can change the bell housing/ clutch. If it's an automatic, you will need a complete V8 Transmission. The torque converter pocket in the end of the crank changed in 1967. Torque converter adaption or replacement needs to be considered when crossing that line in either direction.
The K-Frame is different. The mounts are different.
You need to know which torsion bars are in it. They may be adequate. 891/893 bars were the V8/Slant Six bars in later cars. If they are any smaller, you will need to get bigger diameter ones. (Unless your drag racing, then the small ones are often used.)
Why are you putting the 318 in there? A lot of people do, but the 225 has a lot of potential, and can deliver considerably better economy, even built up.
The 318 is considerably heavier also, so the handling of the car will be more of an issue. Your car will probably have a 7-1/4" rear axle. SBP wheels, and is likely to have drum brakes in the corners. (This is not always the case, but is most likely with a factory /6 car.)
If you aren't planning to upgrade to LBP, an 8-1/4" or 8-3/4" and a disk brake setup, keep to a 2bbl 318 setup. You may still have issues with the relatively weak rear end. You won't break it with a slant six till you pass into the extreme engine builds.
Rear end swaps are easiest if you find a rear end out of an A-body, but other's can be cut/adapted to fit.
For options on the Slant Six, check out www.slantsix.org (http://www.slantsix.org)
Twidget
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