Changing transmission filter

How hard is it to drop the trans pan and change the filter out? I understand all of what has to be done but never have done it before. Any suggestions before I get started?

Since posting this I have found an awesome writeup on changing the fluid and filter. I appreciate everything on here. Any suggestions to help make it a little easier is greatly appreciated tho. Thanks.

first use some ramps or stands, loosen all the screws on 1 side- I did the the very rear and then work your way arround the sides- kinda let the pan tilt so the fluid goes out one side only. I got all my stuff from zzp fast and cheap. Clean the pan out with brake cleaner and spray whatever is visiable with brake cleaner and then bolt it back up.

You can re-use the preformed pan gasket seal. Inspect and make sure it is serviceable first. Be sure to properly torque the 20 pan bolts to 10 lb-ft or 120 in-lb.

If you're going to keep the car, I would suggest installing a drain plug. It makes the job much less messy and simpler to accomplish the next time. Save the reuseable factory gasket, as it is far superior to the cheapo cork ones that come in most aftermarket filter kits.

Rich,

The drain plug sounds like a great idea. Is there a simple kit that I can get to do that?

I don't torque the pan bolts,waste of time and make the filter is the right one.The filter says 4T60E/4T65E on it and it is stamped in.I use my IR2112 or IR2115TI 3/8" impact to tighten the pan bolts and most transmission shops do this.I have broken 1 bolt so far doing this and luckily got it out easily by tapping it out with a hammer and center punch.

I don't torque the pan bolts,waste of time and make the filter is the right one.The filter says 4T60E/4T65E on it and it is stamped in.I use my IR2112 or IR2115TI 3/8" impact to tighten the pan bolts and most transmission shops do this.I have broken 1 bolt so far doing this and luckily got it out easily by tapping it out with a hammer and center punch.

:shakehead

Your might consider investing in some torque wrenches of the foot or inch pound variety to do the job properly and maybe you wouldn't be BFFI'ng bolts including rockers arms. Not good advice to be giving in this forum.

The recommended screen filter to use is the AC Delco TF304, GM Part # 25313825 which also has the filter seal.

The nearest transmission shop I know does not torque them,they tighen them with an impact.General rule with the seal,if it is still in there leave it in there.The seal is a pain to get out and is still good holding the filter in.Visit a transmission shop,I gaurentee they use an impact instead of a torque wrench on the pan bolts.I do not trust torque specs on certain stuff including transmission pans and intake manifolds.

The nearest transmission shop I know does not torque them,they tighen them with an impact.General rule with the seal,if it is still in there leave it in there.The seal is a pain to get out and is still good holding the filter in.Visit a transmission shop,I gaurentee they use an impact instead of a torque wrench on the pan bolts.I do not trust torque specs on certain stuff including transmission pans and intake manifolds.


I could care less what your local tranny shop does or what tools they use. Most people here are the average DIY type that use common hand tools to include torque wrenches when specified. Very few if any have or use air tools. Both the GM FSM and the ATSG 4T65E autotransaxle service manuals advise people to manually torque the pan bolts to specifications.

I've had no problems following the manufacturer's guidelines. If you followed the same maybe you would have less problems like breaking bolts and whatever else you break since you appear to be reckless in the way you do things.

To get the seal out and replace which is highly recommended versus not doing it you have to be smarter than the seal. :eek:

Rich,

The drain plug sounds like a great idea. Is there a simple kit that I can get to do that?

Yes most auto stores sell a kit that doesnt require you to weld in the fittings.
The part # should be around here somewhere......


ps- you should always torq those pan bolts :2cents:

Motormite (the red carded HELP! line) makes a universal one that doesn't require welding. It won't get all the fluid out, but it will get a large portion of it out (especially if you jack the car up on the opposite side of where you install it prior to draining) making the job much less messy.

Not torquing the bolts properly can cause the pan to get bent or distorted, leading to leaks. Tranny shops aren't always intereseted in doing it right, just fast. They also may use an adjustable torque wrench or have their air supply regulated so the torque wrench only reaches the proper spec (doubtful but possible). My opinion has always been that shops don't always do the job correctly, they do it the fastest way.

Rich,
Thanks for the info on the drain plug kit.

.....transmission pans and intake manifolds.

And intake manifold bolts too? Oh my gosh man, Not Good.