99' Cranks but won't start

Hi, I have a '99 with a W in the VIN & ~105K miles. The engine will turn but will not start. Just happened with no warning - luckily it is parked at home.

I'm thinking either no spark or no gas. Gas in the tank & fuel filter is relatively new. I'm looking for the easiest/quickest way to check spark & fuel. The plugs are a pain to get to.

It has been suggested that I spray starter fluid in the air intake and see if it fires - this will confirm I have spark. Not sure if this is a good idea or if I should spray it over the MAF sensor.

I do not have any tools to check gas pressure.

Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks!

Starting fluid is dangerous and can damage the engine, use carb cleaner in a spray can. Open the air filter box and give a one second spray toward the MAF sensor. It may start and then stall immediately if the fuel pressure is too low or nonexistant. If it starts, even momentarily, you have a fuel delivery problem and will need to check fuel pressure.

Update: had some time to check things out...

I cannot hear the fuel pump when the key is turned to "ON".
I do have spark - unfortunately used starter fluid before seeing your post and it did fire.
The 20 AMP fuse to the fuel pump relay is good. Swapped the fuel pump relay with another relay that is the same - did not start.
There is a harness under the van in front of the fuel tank that connects wires like this (into the harness - out of the harness to the top of the tank)...
Gry - Gry
Grn - Grn
Blk - Blk/Wt
Blk - Blk
Blk - Blk/Wt
Ppl/Wt - Ppl/Wt
Gry - Gry/Blk

I can't see the top of the tank, so I don't know where all of these wires go.
I have a wiring diagram that shows a gray wire to the fuel pump. I had voltage for a few seconds at the terminal for the Gry - Gry.

Does this mean my fuel pump is gone? I have prices around $300 for one.

Thanks!

The gray wire goes to the fuel pump positive terminal.
The green wire is the fuel level indicator signal wire.
The purple/white stripe is the fuel tank vapor pressure sensor signal wire.
The larger black wire is fuel pump ground.
The black/white stripe wires are grounds for the level and pressure sensor.

The gray wire should show battery voltage for 2 to 3 seconds after the ignition is turned to the RUN position, and continously when the ignition is in the START position.

All three black wires should show less than 5 ohms resistance to chassis ground. Check the connector at the fuel pump module, make sure it is not melted, corroded, etc. If power and ground check out OK at the connector, the pump is faulty.

Decided to tackle this myself - never dropped a tank. A few questions for the experienced guys...

What is the best way to get the plastic lines off the metal lines on the upper right side of the tank (there are three lines) - there is some type of coupling on the plastic side (is it OK to just cut and replace - mine seem brittle)?

I have a floor jack - no tranny jack - seems I will have to be close to the middle of the tank for balance when I drop the tank. Any tricks of the trade?

Thanks!

Biggest trick of the trade- is to get that tank empty!! Either siphon it out- or try to get the old fuel pump running enough to get it out- this will make the job a whole lot easier-- the fuel line connections are the quick connects- that require a special simple tool to release them- you can buy this at Autozone for about $8 as I recall- I use the metal tool- don't cut those lines- the ones that attach to the van- you'll need them for the new pump. also be alert- once you get the tank down and the ring retainer off and pull out the old fuel pump- that the fuel pump in inside a cartridge that will be full of gas still- almost a quart full- it is easy to spill it out when removing- also be alert to the connections above the tank that is your vacuum sensor- it can easliy be forgotten to unplug and snap it off if you are not careful- it is usually to the rear of the tank- if you don't plug it in when you re-install- you are sure to get a SES lite......have fun........biggest pain on these is the price of the new pump and sender unit assembly- stand-back and sit down when you buy it...

Update...

I couldn't remove the 1/2 tank of gas so I used a tranny jack and had no problem handling the tank.

I got a pump from a salvage yard for $125.

I did have to cut the plastic lines but repaired them with a splice kit (brass fittings). I am a bit concerned that the fuel line is rusty and deformed and the plastic connector for the quick connect did not seem to fit that well.

The vehicle is still up on stands but it did start and I ran it for a few minutes. No leaks yet.

I did damage the flex fill tube (looks like radiator hose) and apparently this is a hard part to get.

Also, the long strap bolts on the driver side were a chore to remove.

Thanks everyone for your advice - saved me a lot of time!

You are a brave individual- I have never used Salvage yard fuel pumps- I have always figured those are about as good as the one I'm replacing- could go out anytime- I've always put that money toward a new unit. Let us know how long it lasts....

Pretty risky indeed! You can find brand new el cheapos online for that price, maybe less.

I hear you - if I had the $$$ I probably wouldn't have even done it myself. I don't go to the yard for those types of things, but it was a calculated gamble.

Even though I will be embarrased to post if it goes quickly - I will let you know :) I did get a 30 day on it at least.

Its not too awfully bad if you have AAA...............mine never fail in the driveway......

i have the same problem except i bought a new pump still doesnt start im thinking pressure regulater or injecto but it runs with starting fluid any help pleas email me at toddluck@yahoo.com im desperate