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engine missfiring


newfdude
03-25-2008, 07:39 PM
i have 01 escape with a 3.o it has a missfire at idleoff idle around1200 to 1500 rpm its ok i checked for codes none found for missfires i also checked compressionin engine all well within specs around150 to 160psi no vacuum leaks i just installed this engine its an 04 engine in a 01 escape orignal engine was low on compression causing bad miss and low power any help would be great thanks

Davescort97
03-25-2008, 11:57 PM
Have you replaced the spark plugs and wires? That would make it misfire.

newfdude
03-29-2008, 03:56 PM
yes i replaced with new plugs she has coil on plug system i checked for vacuum leaks with carb spray and propane no leaks found then i unpluged one coil at at a time in the front of the engine only one made a change it was #5 the other no change in engine also no codes found in ecm at all a also cleaned mass air flow senser drove on hiway drives good lots of power only runs bad at idle missing please help thanks

rhandwor
03-29-2008, 08:59 PM
I would look at the connection to the plug are any of them loose. Some coil on plug type have a short wire between the plug and coil if this is so ohm each one of these. You can try a light which goes on the plug and the other end plugs into the coil. If you watch closely you can see the problem.
An injector with a bad mixture will usually show up on the plug. Each injector should make a change on the engine. Use a stethoscope and listen to each injector.
Is their any to richen the mixture up with starting fluid if it calms down you are not running rich enough fuel mixture. If this is the case try a big bottle of injector in the gas tank.

AlohaBra
03-30-2008, 10:14 AM
Does this happen all the time? Does it matter if it is hot or cold?

newfdude
03-30-2008, 03:55 PM
yes it happens all the time hot or cold

newfdude
04-02-2008, 07:20 PM
found the problem two connecters #4 and #5 were crossed making it missfire pluged them in the right coil no missfire works great now thanks

highlandlake
04-03-2008, 08:28 PM
found the problem two connecters #4 and #5 were crossed making it missfire pluged them in the right coil no missfire works great now thanks

Good news! Must be awesome to drive it again normally.

Now - do you think maybe someone did that as a prank?

MyNeoN95
06-12-2008, 09:23 PM
yes i replaced with new plugs she has coil on plug system i checked for vacuum leaks with carb spray and propane no leaks found then i unpluged one coil at at a time in the front of the engine only one made a change it was #5 the other no change in engine also no codes found in ecm at all a also cleaned mass air flow senser drove on hiway drives good lots of power only runs bad at idle missing please help thanks
HOW DID YOU CHECK FOR VACUUM LEAKS WITH CARB SPRAY AND PROPANE? WHAT'S THE PROCEDURE? tHANKS

rhandwor
06-14-2008, 05:56 PM
I spray along the edges of the intake manifold,around fuel injectors and other areas for vacuum leaks. The engine will smooth out where a leak is located.

claspilljm
06-17-2008, 04:36 PM
I am wondering if there is anyone that can help me - I have a 2002 4x2 Escape 3.0L Duratex V6 with a check engine light that keeps coming on. I've had the vehicle to the Ford Service Center 9 times for the same problem since September 2007 and the last time (a week ago) it was in, they said it was giving a code P0351. They reset the check engine light and said if it happens again they will try replacing all the spark plugs and see if that fixes the problem. This suggestion is based on a Technical Service Bulletin (05-11-01 MIL on with multiple coil primary circuit) they received from a Ford Tech.

In an attempt to educate myself with the basics, I think I've learned this is a misfire, possibly in the #1 spark plug (any confirmation of this would be really helpful!). The #1 spark plug and #1 Cyl Ign Coil were replaced on 9/26/07, which was my 3rd visit to the dealership for same problem. Basically, as I would roll to a stop, the car would shudder and feel like it was going to die and then the check engine light would come on. This happened on 9/17/07, 9/24/07, 9/26/07, 10/2/07, 10/4/07, 10/9/07, 11/26/07, 6/3/08 and 6/15/08.

I have an appointment to go in on Thursday and am trying to figure out if it's really necessary to replace all the spark plugs or if they should start with replacing the one they've already replaced.

I've also been reading about another problem that causes the check engine light to come on - a DPFE sensor. I'm not sure what this is or if this could be the cause of my error P0351.

Any suggestions or tips would be most appreciated - I'm about at the end of my "let's try this" rope. Thank you!

fulltrottlels7
01-24-2009, 08:46 AM
i hate missfiring problem from ford cars...... well to replace everything like plugs and coil ts not hard to do that,just u have the tool to remove it and also ford cleaning the injectors by ur self just remove it and buy paint thinner and put all the injectors a can and fill it by paint thinner and wait for 1 hour.....then return it to ur engine and put all the new plugs and coil...then will see what will happen... to remove the check engine just remove the battery terminal and wait for 10 mins then return it.......... i really really hate ford that have missfire problem......

rhandwor
01-24-2009, 04:57 PM
I think you should check the compression as some of these engines need a valve job to correct the problem. A bad injector can also cause a mis as well as a bad wiring connection. Ohm the wires from the computer to the coil as well as the injector. They are not spending the time to find the problem.

fulltrottlels7
01-25-2009, 12:35 AM
actually i already experience that kind of problem i check everything even the compression of the engine is perfect.. the problem is if the engine is cold and im going to start it the idle is very rough and if u going to accelerate theres no power.... if the temp. of the engine is reach half in the gauge it will idle smooth and run perfect... i already change everything including the whole intake system..... i think i need go to church and pray for that car...

rhandwor
01-25-2009, 07:58 AM
Ohm the temperature sensor if the temperature sensor for the computer reads the wrong temperature its going to run much to lean until the engine warms up. This won't set a code as nothing is really showing up bad. Sometimes they get scaled and you can remove it and clean it with steel wool and this is all thats wrong.
If you have a scanner read the temperature the computer thinks the engine is running. When first starting check.
http://www.kemparts.com/TechTalk/tt13.asp This gives temperature and various ohm readings.

fulltrottlels7
01-27-2009, 11:39 AM
that temp. sensor is place under the intake manifold? i have 3 scanner NGS,genesis 3.0 and IDS.... i already check the data of that sensor but its read normal... thats why im just relay on intake system,coils, injectors,spark plug and PCM....... what is the best thing to do to check that sensor.....

rhandwor
01-27-2009, 02:13 PM
First make sure your scanner is reading the correct temperature. Is it degrees C or F I'm retired but the thermostat was either 192 or 195 degrees F . What you need to determine is what the temperature is in the morning on start up and what the sensor says it is reading. If its zero F outside and the computer thinks its 40 degrees F the mixture will be set wrong. From what you say it runs fine when the thermostat opens. I think it is changing from closed to open loop at the wrong temperature.
If you have a thermometer you can check at 160 degrees and verify what the sensor says.

dashmore
04-11-2009, 12:10 AM
If you haven't figured this out, There is a component bolted on the intake tube / throttle body area (I will have to look at it to give you a precise location). In that component there is an orifice that reads the vacuum being created in the intake and works with a spring reaction, If that orifices collects dirt on gets smaller due to dirt, it will create the Low Idle issue (not sure if that is what your getting). Its about 600 RPM and tough to get it to come up till the engine warms up. Remove the component and clean the orifice (you can buy a spray cleaner at the parts store / ask for the right stuff). This was passed on to me by a knowledgable tech and resolved the IDLE issue on my car. I had to do it 3 times over a 6-9 month period but have not had to do it again for 3 yrs. (I say that and now i'm sure it will be back soon)

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