Engine Mount Problem on V6 3.0L 1MZFE
artbuc
03-22-2008, 09:07 AM
After replacing TB I have a low frequency rumbling vibration which sounds like an exhaust leak. Only occurs when car is in gear, much worse when cold.
Had wife hold foot on brake and put trans in R. Gave a few revs and engine looked like it wanted to jump out with rear side (closest to firewall) lifting up seemingly unrestrained. Looks like rear engine mount is shot.
Don't understand connection between TB and this problem but guess that removing crank pulley bolt by bumping engine put the final blow on an already deteriorating bushing. Or, maybe just a coincidence.
In searching this and other forums it appears the rear mount is a mother to replace requiring disconnecting steering column and jacking engine.
Has anyone replace rear mount? Any tips on how to? Thanks.
Had wife hold foot on brake and put trans in R. Gave a few revs and engine looked like it wanted to jump out with rear side (closest to firewall) lifting up seemingly unrestrained. Looks like rear engine mount is shot.
Don't understand connection between TB and this problem but guess that removing crank pulley bolt by bumping engine put the final blow on an already deteriorating bushing. Or, maybe just a coincidence.
In searching this and other forums it appears the rear mount is a mother to replace requiring disconnecting steering column and jacking engine.
Has anyone replace rear mount? Any tips on how to? Thanks.
artbuc
03-23-2008, 05:04 AM
After replacing TB I have a low frequency rumbling vibration which sounds like an exhaust leak. Only occurs when car is in gear, much worse when cold.
Had wife hold foot on brake and put trans in R. Gave a few revs and engine looked like it wanted to jump out with rear side (closest to firewall) lifting up seemingly unrestrained. Looks like rear engine mount is shot.
Don't understand connection between TB and this problem but guess that removing crank pulley bolt by bumping engine put the final blow on an already deteriorating bushing. Or, maybe just a coincidence.
In searching this and other forums it appears the rear mount is a mother to replace requiring disconnecting steering column and jacking engine.
Has anyone replace rear mount? Any tips on how to? Thanks.
Ok, I'll answer my own question. Put car up on jackstands and remove right front wheel. Support engine weight with jack. Remove four 14mm nuts holding rear mount bracket and main bolt connecting mount bracket to mount. Jack up engine a few inches and you can maneuver the bracket out of the way. At this point you must drive out the old bushing (I haven't done this part yet). My old bushing doesn't look torn but it has lost its omph. You can easily wiggle it around with your fingers - it is offering little to no resistance.
Removing the front mount is much easier. Remove bottom splash guard, top radiator hose (drain out a little coolant first) and electric cooling fan. Remove main connecting bolt, two bracket hold down nuts and one bracket hold down bolt. Jack up engine a couple inchs and it comes right out. My front mount looks ok to me but I am going to replace it anyway as it seems like good practice to replace front & rear mounts in pairs.
Had wife hold foot on brake and put trans in R. Gave a few revs and engine looked like it wanted to jump out with rear side (closest to firewall) lifting up seemingly unrestrained. Looks like rear engine mount is shot.
Don't understand connection between TB and this problem but guess that removing crank pulley bolt by bumping engine put the final blow on an already deteriorating bushing. Or, maybe just a coincidence.
In searching this and other forums it appears the rear mount is a mother to replace requiring disconnecting steering column and jacking engine.
Has anyone replace rear mount? Any tips on how to? Thanks.
Ok, I'll answer my own question. Put car up on jackstands and remove right front wheel. Support engine weight with jack. Remove four 14mm nuts holding rear mount bracket and main bolt connecting mount bracket to mount. Jack up engine a few inches and you can maneuver the bracket out of the way. At this point you must drive out the old bushing (I haven't done this part yet). My old bushing doesn't look torn but it has lost its omph. You can easily wiggle it around with your fingers - it is offering little to no resistance.
Removing the front mount is much easier. Remove bottom splash guard, top radiator hose (drain out a little coolant first) and electric cooling fan. Remove main connecting bolt, two bracket hold down nuts and one bracket hold down bolt. Jack up engine a couple inchs and it comes right out. My front mount looks ok to me but I am going to replace it anyway as it seems like good practice to replace front & rear mounts in pairs.
artbuc
03-24-2008, 03:28 PM
Ok, I'll answer my own question. Put car up on jackstands and remove right front wheel. Support engine weight with jack. Remove four 14mm nuts holding rear mount bracket and main bolt connecting mount bracket to mount. Jack up engine a few inches and you can maneuver the bracket out of the way. At this point you must drive out the old bushing (I haven't done this part yet). My old bushing doesn't look torn but it has lost its omph. You can easily wiggle it around with your fingers - it is offering little to no resistance.
Removing the front mount is much easier. Remove bottom splash guard, top radiator hose (drain out a little coolant first) and electric cooling fan. Remove main connecting bolt, two bracket hold down nuts and one bracket hold down bolt. Jack up engine a couple inchs and it comes right out. My front mount looks ok to me but I am going to replace it anyway as it seems like good practice to replace front & rear mounts in pairs.
Drop back and punt!!! Couldn't get out bushing. Used an air chisel and got some of it but it was clear that even if I got it out I wouold have difficulty driving in the replacement. Attempted to remove drive shaft so I could have better access to motor mount and, as is well documented on the Camry forum, the axle bearing is frozen in the motor mount. I did remove all four bolts attaching the cast iron mount to the engine. I was hoping I could slide everything out together. That didn't work either because the motor mount has locating pins which keep it from moving parallel to the crankshaft and you can't pull it far enough away from the engine to clear the locating pins.
Though about removing the exhaust for better access but I didn't want to be like the guy on the Camry forum that spent 3 days pounding, spraying with penetrating oil and heating with a torch to remove axle.
What's really funny is the Repair Manual which says all you have to do is remove snap ring and bearing retaining bolt and pull out the axle.
Guess what? The joke is on me!
Removing the front mount is much easier. Remove bottom splash guard, top radiator hose (drain out a little coolant first) and electric cooling fan. Remove main connecting bolt, two bracket hold down nuts and one bracket hold down bolt. Jack up engine a couple inchs and it comes right out. My front mount looks ok to me but I am going to replace it anyway as it seems like good practice to replace front & rear mounts in pairs.
Drop back and punt!!! Couldn't get out bushing. Used an air chisel and got some of it but it was clear that even if I got it out I wouold have difficulty driving in the replacement. Attempted to remove drive shaft so I could have better access to motor mount and, as is well documented on the Camry forum, the axle bearing is frozen in the motor mount. I did remove all four bolts attaching the cast iron mount to the engine. I was hoping I could slide everything out together. That didn't work either because the motor mount has locating pins which keep it from moving parallel to the crankshaft and you can't pull it far enough away from the engine to clear the locating pins.
Though about removing the exhaust for better access but I didn't want to be like the guy on the Camry forum that spent 3 days pounding, spraying with penetrating oil and heating with a torch to remove axle.
What's really funny is the Repair Manual which says all you have to do is remove snap ring and bearing retaining bolt and pull out the axle.
Guess what? The joke is on me!
artbuc
03-27-2008, 01:55 PM
Drop back and punt!!! Couldn't get out bushing. Used an air chisel and got some of it but it was clear that even if I got it out I wouold have difficulty driving in the replacement. Attempted to remove drive shaft so I could have better access to motor mount and, as is well documented on the Camry forum, the axle bearing is frozen in the motor mount. I did remove all four bolts attaching the cast iron mount to the engine. I was hoping I could slide everything out together. That didn't work either because the motor mount has locating pins which keep it from moving parallel to the crankshaft and you can't pull it far enough away from the engine to clear the locating pins.
Though about removing the exhaust for better access but I didn't want to be like the guy on the Camry forum that spent 3 days pounding, spraying with penetrating oil and heating with a torch to remove axle.
on-lineWhat's really funny is the Repair Manual which says all you have to do is remove snap ring and bearing retaining bolt and pull out the axle.
Guess what? The joke is on me!
I realize I'm talking to myself on this thread but I am posting anyway in case it helps somebody. This forum is dead compared to Camry but, in this case, the mechanical set-ups are identical.
Some Toyota dealers still carry the rubber bushing listing at about $54. You can get an aftermarket for half that price. The problem is the major difficulty in removing the bushing from the cast iron bracket. In fact, my two favorite on-line Toyota parts suppliers (Irontoad and DTS) no longer carry the rubber bushing separately. You have to buy the bracket/bushing assembly for about $100 plus S&H (does not include the axle support bearing).
The second biggest problem is removing the bracket when the RH axle support bearing is seized in the mount bracket. I plan to solve this problem by hacksawing the locating pins allowing the axle/bracket assemply to slide out laterally. It should be much easier to remove the bracket from the axle off the vehicle. I'm not sure if the bracket will slide out w/o removing the PS pump-I'll let you know. I read another post which said yoou have to disconnect the steering coupling and lower the sub-frame to provide clearance. I'm hoping I don't have to do that.
I'll let you know the outcome.
PS. Don't try to cast a bushing from 3M Windo Weld. It is a one part moisture cured polyurethane which takes forever to cure!
Though about removing the exhaust for better access but I didn't want to be like the guy on the Camry forum that spent 3 days pounding, spraying with penetrating oil and heating with a torch to remove axle.
on-lineWhat's really funny is the Repair Manual which says all you have to do is remove snap ring and bearing retaining bolt and pull out the axle.
Guess what? The joke is on me!
I realize I'm talking to myself on this thread but I am posting anyway in case it helps somebody. This forum is dead compared to Camry but, in this case, the mechanical set-ups are identical.
Some Toyota dealers still carry the rubber bushing listing at about $54. You can get an aftermarket for half that price. The problem is the major difficulty in removing the bushing from the cast iron bracket. In fact, my two favorite on-line Toyota parts suppliers (Irontoad and DTS) no longer carry the rubber bushing separately. You have to buy the bracket/bushing assembly for about $100 plus S&H (does not include the axle support bearing).
The second biggest problem is removing the bracket when the RH axle support bearing is seized in the mount bracket. I plan to solve this problem by hacksawing the locating pins allowing the axle/bracket assemply to slide out laterally. It should be much easier to remove the bracket from the axle off the vehicle. I'm not sure if the bracket will slide out w/o removing the PS pump-I'll let you know. I read another post which said yoou have to disconnect the steering coupling and lower the sub-frame to provide clearance. I'm hoping I don't have to do that.
I'll let you know the outcome.
PS. Don't try to cast a bushing from 3M Windo Weld. It is a one part moisture cured polyurethane which takes forever to cure!
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