98 tahoe 5.7l injection question
busted_knuckles
03-18-2008, 01:49 PM
Got a cylinder 6 misfire code pulled the spark plug excessive carbon build up.
Pulled the upper intake plentum gasket looks good Fuel regulator seemed to be stopped up. Shouldn't I be able to blow air through it?
Thinking I may need to change presure regulator and no 6 injector.
Have read where some people do not sugest changing one injector. They say replace the whole spider asm at one time.
Is this correct? Also have seen where some sugest converting to a "new style" injector. Photos I saw showed each injector having a wire harness going to the tip of each injector.
After replacing the plentum gaskets and orings still runs rough and now gives multiple cylinder misfires.
Oh i almost forgot it started showing signs of trouble by idleing high.
Pulled the upper intake plentum gasket looks good Fuel regulator seemed to be stopped up. Shouldn't I be able to blow air through it?
Thinking I may need to change presure regulator and no 6 injector.
Have read where some people do not sugest changing one injector. They say replace the whole spider asm at one time.
Is this correct? Also have seen where some sugest converting to a "new style" injector. Photos I saw showed each injector having a wire harness going to the tip of each injector.
After replacing the plentum gaskets and orings still runs rough and now gives multiple cylinder misfires.
Oh i almost forgot it started showing signs of trouble by idleing high.
J-Ri
03-18-2008, 03:58 PM
Fuel regulator seemed to be stopped up. Shouldn't I be able to blow air through it?
Thinking I may need to change presure regulator and no 6 injector.
Have read where some people do not sugest changing one injector. They say replace the whole spider asm at one time.
Is this correct? Also have seen where some sugest converting to a "new style" injector. Photos I saw showed each injector having a wire harness going to the tip of each injector.
After replacing the plentum gaskets and orings still runs rough and now gives multiple cylinder misfires.
Oh i almost forgot it started showing signs of trouble by idleing high.
The pressure regulator dumps the extra pressure from the fuel pump into the return line, over ~66 PSI, so unless you're talking about compressed air from a blowgun, you won't be able to blow through it. Check the fuel pressure to see if the regulator is good. Also, pull the vacuum line off the regulator, if it is leaking gas (bad diaphragm), it can make a cylinder or two run rich... check and see if the vacuum line runs into the manifold above cyl. #6 (also would/could make it idle high).
I have never replaced a fuel injector on a Vortec engine, but I always though the spider assembly was a replace-only piece... maybe someone else can give you info on that.
Did you check fuel pressure, the distributor cap/rotor, and plug wires?
Thinking I may need to change presure regulator and no 6 injector.
Have read where some people do not sugest changing one injector. They say replace the whole spider asm at one time.
Is this correct? Also have seen where some sugest converting to a "new style" injector. Photos I saw showed each injector having a wire harness going to the tip of each injector.
After replacing the plentum gaskets and orings still runs rough and now gives multiple cylinder misfires.
Oh i almost forgot it started showing signs of trouble by idleing high.
The pressure regulator dumps the extra pressure from the fuel pump into the return line, over ~66 PSI, so unless you're talking about compressed air from a blowgun, you won't be able to blow through it. Check the fuel pressure to see if the regulator is good. Also, pull the vacuum line off the regulator, if it is leaking gas (bad diaphragm), it can make a cylinder or two run rich... check and see if the vacuum line runs into the manifold above cyl. #6 (also would/could make it idle high).
I have never replaced a fuel injector on a Vortec engine, but I always though the spider assembly was a replace-only piece... maybe someone else can give you info on that.
Did you check fuel pressure, the distributor cap/rotor, and plug wires?
777stickman
03-18-2008, 07:10 PM
Welcome to AF. I've been on the forum for a while and have tried to read, and learn from, the posts and responses that would have an effect on the '96-'99 models.
From what I've learned, the #6 miss fire could very well be a distributor problem.
So, before you start "ripping and tearing" check 2 things.
1. Pull the dist cap and check for any movement in the rotor under slight hand pressure. Any movement in the rotor means a dist replacement.
2. Check the CMP (cam position sensor) retard. Needs to be 0 +/- 2degs @ 1000 rpm. This needs to be done with a scan tool that can access this feature.
An erratic idle is also a sign of a dist problem as well as some other things.
From what I've learned, the #6 miss fire could very well be a distributor problem.
So, before you start "ripping and tearing" check 2 things.
1. Pull the dist cap and check for any movement in the rotor under slight hand pressure. Any movement in the rotor means a dist replacement.
2. Check the CMP (cam position sensor) retard. Needs to be 0 +/- 2degs @ 1000 rpm. This needs to be done with a scan tool that can access this feature.
An erratic idle is also a sign of a dist problem as well as some other things.
busted_knuckles
03-31-2008, 07:20 AM
Thanks for the replys. To let ya know the problem was the intake gasket. I was getting a vacume leak around the gasket near the no.6 cylinder.
Just a general observation mine is a 98 Tahoe have had it for almost 6 years. It has been nothing but trouble is it safe to say that the 96-99 version of the 350 was just a bad engine or do I just have a lemon. I have always been a bowtie man but this thing has really soured me on them. Once I get the engine back together tonight its going up for sale. Not really sure what to replace it with. Should I trust a newer Chevy or change brands?
By the way here is a list of things I have replaced
Intake gasket twice
fuel pump twice (once on vactation)
water pump twice
alternator once
radiator
fan control switch twice
headlight wires at steering column repaired
quick disconect heater hose to intake
AC hose leaks
upper and lower ball joints
crankshaft position sensor
all in 6 years it have 60K when I bought it now it has 130K
Just a general observation mine is a 98 Tahoe have had it for almost 6 years. It has been nothing but trouble is it safe to say that the 96-99 version of the 350 was just a bad engine or do I just have a lemon. I have always been a bowtie man but this thing has really soured me on them. Once I get the engine back together tonight its going up for sale. Not really sure what to replace it with. Should I trust a newer Chevy or change brands?
By the way here is a list of things I have replaced
Intake gasket twice
fuel pump twice (once on vactation)
water pump twice
alternator once
radiator
fan control switch twice
headlight wires at steering column repaired
quick disconect heater hose to intake
AC hose leaks
upper and lower ball joints
crankshaft position sensor
all in 6 years it have 60K when I bought it now it has 130K
kpghia
03-31-2008, 09:14 AM
I'm fairly new here at this forum. Perhaps yours IS just a lemon. Mine has over 142K on the motor. I have replaced:
Water Pump
Starter (@ 140K)
Alternator
Belt
I am in the process of replacing the lower intake manifold seal now. Hopefully the job continues smoothly and my truck provides 142K more great miles.:smooch: BTW I guess I should start replacing some hoses. Great thread...I have learned so much here.
Water Pump
Starter (@ 140K)
Alternator
Belt
I am in the process of replacing the lower intake manifold seal now. Hopefully the job continues smoothly and my truck provides 142K more great miles.:smooch: BTW I guess I should start replacing some hoses. Great thread...I have learned so much here.
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