Dist. cap and rotor

Okay maybe I'm just retarded or something, but with as many rotors as I've changed out, I still can't find any screws to hold this rotor on, and I can't pull or pry on it enough to make it come off. Any ideas on how to remove a rotor from the dist. shaft? Can I really pry on that sucker without damaging the shaft?

Truck had three wires barely connected, and the cap and rotor are horribly corroded, yet it still runs great, amazing. BTW - whoever posted the how-to for dropping the steering stabilizer or damper, that was brilliant, easiest way to go. Oh and another three plugs were less than hand tight, wow.

Right now I have new everything with an old rotor so I can get to work, so while any help is appreciated, quick help would be really great. Thanks.

Yup, it pulls straight up and it's on tight...you got any old school 600grit?

No but I got some new school 1500 grit, will that work?

I'm gonna get at it in a few minutes, I don't suppose any lubricants would help any? Drives me nuts just knowing that corroded P.O.S. is still on there. Thanks.

Alright, it wasn't pretty, but it's done and the truck runs ten times better just from that. Hit the gas and it jumps with power, lot different than the beater ford escort I've been driving for two years.

You kept the Escort didn't you? It'll get half again better fuel milage.

Actually I'm trying to sell it, need a vehicle for work(just to and from) and the escort has a bad water pump again, considering I've replaced that before on that car two years ago, I'm not totally interested in doing it again.

I gotta ask for clarification though, what was "It'll get half again better fuel milage." supposed to say? I got the jist that it would get better mileage than the blazer, just making sure it wasn't a code or something ;) Cause I missed it the first time around

It'll get the fuel mileage of the Blazer + half the mileage of the Blazer....about 20 + about 10...about 30 mpg.

Yeah okay, that it will with a tune up