2000 geo metro / suzuki

Ok, heres the deal. 2000 susuki swift, 1.3L, 5sp.
Car started and ran fine when I bought it one week ago. It needed a timing belt & water pump. I replaced both. After car will not start. There are no check engine lights on, or anything obvious like that.
I did not disconnect anything electrical, but the one air intake "temp" sensor connection. The timing marks align perfectly, the E on the cam pulley up and at the notch, and the crank lines up on oil pump indicator.
The engine sounds like it is "free wheeling", like no compression.
I checked all fuses=good. I check fuel pump=good, pressure and flow.
The only thing I did was move the main harness around during the water pump and timing replacement ordeal. I tried disonconnecting the battery and letting the car sit, reconnected and=go good. I am at a loss at this point.
Any insight would be appreciated. Regards.

If you say that is free wheeling that means one thing timing is off, on the compression stroke the ehxaust valves are open and the compression escapes.
Now that excludes that the timing belt might have jumped off or that your head gasket is leaking compression so bad.
I envy you for those 5 speeds, mine is 2000 auto royally sucks with 3 speeds auto.

Thanks for the reply. I failed to mention I did remove both the cam shaft pulley and crank pulley to replace both seals. The crank is a no brainer, but IASSUME there in only ONE index key on the CAM and pulley, but now I need to go back and check again. That is the only thing I can think might be off.
As mentioned before, right now, the marks align perfectly, but this would STILL be wrong if the pulley is indexed wrong. Thanks.

Spy is spot on. Your valve timing is incorrect. Take it apart and start again.

IIRC - On your style camshaft pulley there is an 'E' and an 'I', correct? The 'I' (for intake) is the mark you want to aim for, as opposed to the 'E' for exhaust.

-MechanicMatt

Well dag-nab-it!!!

I used the Haynes book that I bought for the car and it very clearly refers to to the "E" as the timing mark on the cam I should align. I will move the timing to the "I" tonight as see what cooks.

Do you guys know if this is an "inteference engine"?

I turned the crank by hand before I ever hit the key start. Just want to make sure I did not bend any valves.

I am certain you guys are right on the money.
Thanks.

Have no fears, it's non-interference.

If you're in doubt about the relationship of the cam and crank after you make your adjustments, you can give it a quick 2 second idle to make sure it runs before you slap it all back together. Don't let it run any longer than nessecary to confirm an idle because the belt will fly off.

-MechanicMatt

YES!1 Timing was the problem, now solved!!

There are TWO ways the cam pin can fit into the cam gear. There is an "E" and "I" right next to the cam pin holes at the center of the gear. There are also a corresponding "E" and "I" at the perimeter of the cam gear
To make a long story shorter, I had the cam pin in the "I" hole instead of the "E" hole. Once I moved the gear to the "E" hole and realigned the pulley mark with the housing, the car started right up.
Lesson learned: 1) Mark the cam pin position in the cam gear in addition to marking the outer cam gear!!.

Also, having stated the above. The "E" in the Haynes book seems to be the correct information.

Thank you all for your help and great thinking!!.

Glad we can help fellows Geo/Chevy drivers.