trying to troubleshoot my sub/amp problem

so i'm kinda stumped on whats going on, perhaps you guys can help.

my setup

JL 500/1 amp
2 Xtant hex series

about a month ago my subs cut out while i was driving, I didn't think nothing of it, i figured i just overheated something and it would come back in time ( i had my system kinda loud).

well i was right, went into the mall for about a ½ hour came back and they worked fine.

about 2 weeks later, they cut out, this time for good. I figured my subs were blown but I pushed in my subs and they seem fine, hooked up another sub, nothing!

The ground for the amp is also fine, and the power light to the amp is on. Anyone have anymore ideas i can try.

Thanks

Does the amp have protection mode?

How did you have the subs wired? What was the ohm load going to the amp?

Does the amp have protection mode?

How did you have the subs wired? What was the ohm load going to the amp?

i don't know, they have been wired (by a profesional) the same way for about 5 years. Its a monoblock amp with 2 dual voiceover amps wired sycronized together. (i'm pretty sure)

With out more info we cant really determine your problem. You need to go through and test some things to narrow down your problem. If you aren't good with wiring up electronics and things I suggest you take it to someone who is.

Just a guess I would say you fried the amp. Most likely the output transistors.

i forgot to say, they did come back on after about 2 weeks of doing nothing for about 15 min. they i shut off my car and it went back to producing barely any bass at all

Either you have a bad cannection or you fried the amp.

I'm betting the amp is dead. I've gone through 2 JL amps the exact same way, started acting up for a couple weeks with turning off and shit, and then eventually they just quit working. Hooked up a new amp and the subs came back to life. Maybe try hooking up another amp just to be sure. :2cents:

thats what i'm going to do, I really hope its not the amp, JL amps are not cheap


I'm betting the amp is dead. I've gone through 2 JL amps the exact same way, started acting up for a couple weeks with turning off and shit, and then eventually they just quit working. Hooked up a new amp and the subs came back to life. Maybe try hooking up another amp just to be sure. :2cents:

Tell me about it. I replaced it with an alpine and I don't know if I like it as well.

JL amps are not cheap
You dang right, whats a 500 watt JL amp cost? $500? Thats crazy, the shops charging that pay no more than like $75 for it...they making a killing. I'd shop around a little more before buying another one.

I called JL today and they said they would fix it for $180 so i guess that isn't too bad, better then $550-$600 for a new one

Its fried man, I would just get something else for same value/power. Plus i used to be all into systems and shit before all my panels in my car started rattling. Now I just settle for a mono setup of like 250W rms, that way I don't take up that much space and save on the weight.

I would get it fixed. I know those amps are expensive as hell and they sound awesome. What sucks is that probably about $10s worth of parts need to be replaced for it to be like new again and they charge you $180.

Thats more than 1/4 of what you paid for it. Holy shit thats a lot! Like Silver said, its not going to cost them more that 10% of what they are going to charge you for it.:shakehead

But there is nothing he can do about it. There is no way he will find another amp with the quality of JL for $180. He is just going to have to suck it up or find someone else to fix it.

Try find a car audio repair place in your city. I plan on getting my JL fixed when I go home for the summer. IIRC, it was like $130 for me to send it to JL and have them fix it, or it was $35 in parts and $50 labor for the repair shop to fix it with a warranty on the parts they replaced. I'd look into something like that if you can.

wow, so it turns out that it was just my 80 amp fuse by the battery. Now before you guys facepalm me and say "you didn't check that", the thing is I didn't have my Volt tester (couldn't find it) and I just last night got one and tested only about half power going to my amp. On top of that I looked at my fuse in the front and it looked like it was still fine. I thought the piece inside the glass fuse had to be broken for the fuse to be dead. Long story short, I put a new fuse in and everything worked just fine.

Thank god I don't have to get my amp fixed, cause I wasn't looking forward to it.