Boot + Bonnet Flood

Electronics,computers,and control Modules don't like water,
I thought, it was a water-craft ,there was so much water on the engine, and in the trunk.

BOOT (TRK) water diverts into the rear Tail lights and gos into the lower trunk.
BONNET (Hood) water pours in near the intake,and Electrical bus harness.

Action Taken:
BOOT:
1) Use a garden hose with just a little water pressure to simulated rain water.
2) Open trunk, and remove the Spare tire.
3) Put garden hose on top of car ,so the water rolls onto the rear window.
4) Watch the water roll down the rear window,trunk gutter,and roll behind the rear tail lights,and
fill the lower truck with water.
5) Use a black silicone for DOORS & WINDOWS from Home Depot.
6) Apply outer rear tail lights, Used WD40 on finger to leave a nice finish.

BONNET:
1) Use a garden hose with a little water pressure to simulate rain water.
2) Pop the hood
3) Place the garden hose on top of the car, so water will roll down the middle of windshield.
4) Watch the water roll onto your ENGINE.
5) Make a rain diverter for the COWL!
6) Go back to Home-Depot in the floor section.
7) Look for that thin black rubber (4'' x 3') base board trim for baths,it's
easy to cut and form for your rubber COWL Project.

The Ideal to create a rain diverter in the cowl and glue it in.

I actually got one Jag done with the COP covers off, Car wash, and being
exposed to NC. weather for the last 2-years with no-water issues or ''Misfires''.

danielsatur, I went out and got the items you mentioned to resolve the Bonnet (hood) water leak problem, i.e. black baseboard trim & Loctite glue and was ready to apply your fix, but first I wanted to do your water test.

When I did the water test I found that the specific location that water leaked into the area of the Throttle body and associated connectors was by the 2 hold down screws access points in the cowl.

So I did the following:

1. Remove the 2 black plastic covers to the access point.
2. Use black Silicon Sealant around the edges and place it back in the access points (Make sure you put on plastic gloves!)
3. If you like you can do the other 5 as well to make sure that no water goes into the engine area.
4. Let dry

Then do the water test again.

I found that water no longer got through and was sent to the sides where it drains
out.
I also tested how hard it was to remove the access covers once silicon sealant was on them.

I found that a small knife used around the edges would cut the sealant and then a flat screwdriver can be used to pop out the covers.

This is an easier method to stop the water leaking into the Throttle body area.

I tried to add pictures but could not. I have the same post on Jaguar Forums with the pictures.

http://jaguarforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=148270#post148270

The electronics and control modules don't like water, once you resolve the water problems everything else is like PLUG + PLAY.

Thanks for the info,

I actually found this problem years ago, because someone lock there keys in the trunk,no
key, The valet button was triggered, dead battery, and it was raining.
I charged the battery, dried the COP BOSS's and COP's with a hair dryer.

Also designed the ACME Auto Emission Filter (AAEF), to protect my MAF, IACT, H02 sensors, throttle body, and catalytic converters from Emission Gunk.
See http://www.ideabuyer.com/ipavail/acme-auto-emissions-filter