Enclosure and door cutting questions

Before I didnt feel comfortable with cutting my doors for sound but now I think I'm ready to go for it. I measured my doors and the depth would have to be 2in max before it got in the way of other things. I've never done anything like this before but I'm always up for a learning experience. Any special tools or advice anyone could give me. Or even some instructions or else I'll be winging it.

Enclosure question, I'm also going to try building a custom enclosure. Its not my first time building one but it will be my first time desiging and building the last time I just used some plans I found on google. I'm going to make my first box for my pioneers and if I do a good job I will make one for my kickers (I like to switch them out from time to time.)

I have 2 pioneers TS-W306DVC
Recommend enclosure size is .85-1.75 cubic feet
SPECS ON SUBS:
1000 watts max
400 watts nom
frequence 18-500mhz
sensitivity 89 db
13" by 7"
mountin dept 6 1/4"
*Taken from pioneer website*

I would like to build them in their own seperate enclosure for the way I want to position them. Is there a program I can try using for help or do I also have to use the trial and error method.
O and I would like to go ported my last box was sealed so any porting tips will also be appreciated.

thanks
~Drew~

Should I try using the RE Calculator for my box design?

I've heard good and bad things about it whats every else opinion

EDIT: I've been thinking about adding a second battery in my trunk around the same time I did this install. I can get my local stereo shop to do it but I was thinking how hard could it be? Whats involved with adding a second battey what other materials would I need. I have a Duralast Gold under the hood right now, should I put that in the trunk and get an optima for under the hood?

Like always suggestions/comments appreciated
~Drew~

you can cut mounting rings to lift the speaker out a little from the door hole.

Subs are kinda picky about boxes and VERY picky about ports. If you build a ported box, it will be tuned for just one set of subs. You will need another ported box for the second pair. WinIsd is pretty good for port calculations.

Both batteries need to be as close to the same as possible, if not - one will drain the other. As far as mounting in the trunk, it is essentially the same as wiring the power to another amp. You will need a splitter for the power wire coming the front battery, then a short wire that is grounded to bare metal in the trunk for the - terminal

So I could technically go bigge on the door speakers if I'm willing to let them stick out a little bit. Nice. Any advice on cutting the hole?

And if I did the battery should I go with zero gauge all the way through and then just hook it up like an amp. And then use the battery in the trunk for everything instead of the one up front?

yes, but you may have to modify the door panel if they stick out too far.

you can't do it that way, the two batteries will be in parallel - so both batteries will powering the sytem. You can use an isolator to keep the stereo from draining the starting battery when you play the stereo with the car off.

O. Okay I got it so the second battery would only be used when my car was off. Would I need a stronger alt to charge both batteries.

Also do you know of anyone I can pay to design a nice enclosure for me from the forums. I trust you so anyone you recommend will also be trusted.

Thanks
~Drew~

there used to be several guys that would do it ..... most have been banned (not by me) or just moved along.

the second battery will be in parallel ..... so both batteries will be powering the stereo AND starting the car (and being charged when the car is running). With an isolator, the starting battery is isolated from delivering power to the stereo when the car is off.

O. Gotcha I'm guessing it would be cheaper to get my 1/0 gauge online instead of from my usual stereo spot since I'll need a lot. I was told about 30 feet.

O and I found Ngsm on ca forums. But theres so many people there offering to build boxes I have no idea who to go too.

What website would you recommend for ordering all of this stuff when I asked for about 30ft of 1/0 gauge at my local shop they laughed and tried to sell me anothe cap saying I didnt need a battery in the trunk because I'm basically not pushing a wall of subs.

They also said they dont make speakers that can go in my door without a lot of modification. I have since realized my stereo shop doesn't know anything compared to you guys.

Caps do NOTHING for loud bass. And tell me why you want a 2nd battery ? how much RMS powere will you be pushing ?

The battery will be for future upgrades when summer hits I just like to have everything ready ahead of time. I know caps do nothing for loud bass thats why I didnt talk them into selling me ANOTHER 4 fared to run in parallel with the one I just took. I heard they are another strain on my alt.

In my head I can see big plans for some powerful and clear bass. (More clear than powerful) I know its easy to be loud but its not so easy to be loud and sound good. I just figured I would make sure I have the power to run the setup I have in mind for the car.

Do you think a seperate battery and a H/O alt or a dual stock alt whichever I can afford at the time is overkill?

Edit: I also thought about adding a carputer in the future for movies and such when I'm sitting outside of school waiting for my next class to start.

if you're running under 1krms you should be fine as long as you do the big 3 on a better battery and a stock altenator.

I think you can get like a 200-300 amp alternator pretty much any vehicle, that should be enough. Caps aren't really much of a load on the Alt, large batteries are (or can be).

I have a brand new battery (bought yesterday other one had a dead cell) 800 CCA and 1000 CA. Its also Dual Terminal So I figured I could do something with that. It was one of the strongest batterys I could get at autozone without going to an optima.

My current amp is only 120 amp but I did do the big 3 with zero gauge. I was told there was a way to get two stock alts put on my car all I would need is a special bracket and belt. It would be cheaper than a H/O but I would get close to the same results. I've never heard of it though.

I would like to ad to this thread in hopes that you will remember to safety when your are adding these accessories to your vehicle.

1. You will need a breaker, or at very MINIMUM a fusible link between your two batteries. If you do not have one, you are likely to blow your two batteries up.

2. You will most likely need a MINIMUM of a 200 amp alternator, a 400 would be nice, but might be over kill. They are expensive, but it will save you in the long run from going through stock alternators all the time.

another thing I feel I should say as far as adding batteries, caps, and subs. If you don't know what you are doing, it would be very wise to have a stereo shop install it for you. I know nobody wants to pay someone else to do things like that, but I suggest it for several good reason.

1. If you mess up, or blow up your vehicle, you will have no one to blame but yourself.

2. Stereo installers in shops have to warranty their work, if they mess it up, they have to fix it for free.

3. You could learn from how they install it. After you get it home, you can take note of every everything they put in, then you will know the what you need the next time you decide to install yourself.

As far as the door speakers go, just remember to watch out for your window when it is rolled all the way down or up, if you speakers are to big (deep), they can stop the window from working properly. It sounds like you've checked to make sure it doesn't get in the way of anything though, but I just wanted to make sure that you checked to see the window will have safe room to roll up and down. If they are to deep for the door, you can find what's called 'kick panel spacers'. They will give you a good mount for your speakers and bring them out of the door so they don't get in the way of anything.

As far as an enclosure goes. That is really left up to the imagination. They main point of an enclosure is to protect your speaker from getting kicked or broken. As long as it does its job and fits around the speaker without interferring with the speaker doing its job, you should be fine.

Hope this helped

200amp alt minimum? LOL

i'm runnin 1400w RMS, I bolded since he's only going to run 600 at MOST

I have a 1 kinetik 800 in the back with a stock motorcraft battery up front,and the big 3 done 0 guage. I never drop below 12.5v at full tilt, thats on a stock 135 amp altenator. Theres no reason for him to go overboard and get a 200, and no reason in hell to get a 400a alt.

I would like to ad to this thread in hopes that you will remember to safety when your are adding these accessories to your vehicle.

1. You will need a breaker, or at very MINIMUM a fusible link between your two batteries. If you do not have one, you are likely to blow your two batteries up.

WHY DO YOU NEED A FUSE BETWEEN THEM ? BLOW THEM UP ? YOU HAVE APPARENTLY HAD DIFFERENT EXPERIENCES THAN I

2. You will most likely need a MINIMUM of a 200 amp alternator, a 400 would be nice, but might be over kill. They are expensive, but it will save you in the long run from going through stock alternators all the time.

NEVER SEEN ANYTHING HIGHER THAN 300 AMPS, AGAIN - YOU HAVE DIFFERENT EXPERIENCES

another thing I feel I should say as far as adding batteries, caps, and subs. If you don't know what you are doing, it would be very wise to have a stereo shop install it for you. I know nobody wants to pay someone else to do things like that, but I suggest it for several good reason.

1. If you mess up, or blow up your vehicle, you will have no one to blame but yourself.

THIS IS OFEN TIMES THE ONLY WAY TO LEARN

2. Stereo installers in shops have to warranty their work, if they mess it up, they have to fix it for free.

NOT NECESSARILY - THEY BLEW UP MY ALTERNATOR AND F'D UP ALL MY SETTINGS AND I HAD TO FIX IT.

3. You could learn from how they install it. After you get it home, you can take note of every everything they put in, then you will know the what you need the next time you decide to install yourself.

A FEW INSTALLERS ARE REALLY GOOD, SOME ARE TERRIBLY IGNORANT, AND OTHERS ARE AT LEAST COMPETENT. BEST THING TO DO IS ASK AROUND TO SEE WHO IS GOOD, JUT BE PREPARED TO PAY OR A GOOD INSTALLER.

As far as the door speakers go, just remember to watch out for your window when it is rolled all the way down or up, if you speakers are to big (deep), they can stop the window from working properly. It sounds like you've checked to make sure it doesn't get in the way of anything though, but I just wanted to make sure that you checked to see the window will have safe room to roll up and down. If they are to deep for the door, you can find what's called 'kick panel spacers'. They will give you a good mount for your speakers and bring them out of the door so they don't get in the way of anything.

As far as an enclosure goes. That is really left up to the imagination. They main point of an enclosure is to protect your speaker from getting kicked or broken. As long as it does its job and fits around the speaker without interferring with the speaker doing its job, you should be fine.

THE MAIN JOB OF AN ENCLOSURE IS TO PROVIDE A SPEAKER WITH THE CORRECT BACK PRESSURE. PROTECTION IS THE JOB OF THE GRILLE.

Hope this helped


Obviously mobilemom has spent some time in the shop

I trust my building skills so I think everything will be fine. I know how to add a second battery (I've done it before) but it was under the hood in a truck I've never ran one to the trunk. I thought fuses would be enough between the batteries from what I read max 18" away from each battery on positive and negative.

I've never trusted anyone to do an install for me and half the time when they do its messed up and I learn a little more fixing it. My alt can handle my current set up no problem and when I talked to Buick (Oldsmobile basically the same thing) they said a second battey would cause no real harm to my alt.

Also from what I hear I can make the box look however I want it to look as long as it has the right amount of space for the subs to breath.

Am I at least on the right track?

EDIT: Would a speaker baffle be sufficient sound deadening?

Also does this sound like a good deal I asked for a deal on a nice component setup and got this as a PM?
I've got a set of MB Quart PCE-216's. It would come with all the grills and mounting hardware also. $110 shipped to your door.

Also, I have a second set of MB Quarts that have been sitting around in case something went wrong with my main set. These are the same (2) 6.5" speakers, (2) 1" Tweets, but there is a Premium x-over and a Reference x-over (Main difference is the highs I believe). One of the tweets has a small dent, one of the speakers has a little stain on it, and one of the x-overs is missing 4 screws but both play fine. I don't think I have the grills or much mounting hardware for these though. I would sell these for $50 shipped to your door.

If you wanted both sets I would take $150 shipped.

EDIT 2:What do you guys think of this deck?
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?o=p&g=300&i=130DEHP4UB&c=3&tp=5684&avf=N

yes, box shape means little - only the internal volume counts. A speaker baffle is technically the top board of an enclosure, you must be thinking of something else.

never been much on MB Qaurt ...... some like them, some don't

I was thinking of this little foam piece that wraps around the magnet of the speaker for my mids. I was told its called a baffle maybe I heard wrong.

yea, I know what you are talking about ... I think that's what they call them http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-788

After looking it up, looks like I had a rather narrow view of the term.

Yes thats what I'm talking about do you think that would be sufficient protection for the speakers in the door to protect the magnet from hitting any metals and provide some sound deadening or would it be better for me to just sound deaden my doors also?

Hey paul I was looking at your progress pics of your car. It looks great how much sound deadening matt did you have to use to do your entire car? Not that I think I need to do my entire car but I do have a lot of little krinks and rattles that I have to find and stop.

Heres the deal, you are running 800 watts rms from the subs. But only 600 watts rms from the amp if you bridge it at 4 ohms. Anyways, to use a dual battery setup buy a battery isolator with a 200+ amp alternator input and add a properly rated FUSE less than one foot away from each of the batteries terminals. You can wire only the starter cable directly to the starting battery. As the rear battery will take most of the amp draws from the sound system, put the stronger battery in the back. Run 0 gauge between the batteries, and because the run from the back battery to the amp is going to be short, use 4 gauge for the amp because your hifonics only has a 4 awg input anyway. This will leave you ready for big power. If you want to have very good sound quality, and power, then go for JL audio w6 series subwoofers. Those are the very best subs that you will hear regardless of anything. I am getting a pair of 13.5 inch models this summer. I already made the ported box for them (3.5 cu.ft. @ 32hz (cu.ft@ 32hz)). As for the alt, its not necessary to upgrade because the rear battery can handle the amperage if its backed by a cap. 120 amps is more than enough from your alt. For your speakers, make or buy MDF speaker rings, and measure & modify to suit your needs. For the enclosure, it is best to make it yourself for the spec of your subs, and space in your car. You can search around for porting instructions online.
And it seems like you will need more power from your amp; especially to drive two 12 inch solo barics.
I have a monoblock MA audio anp for sale that is big on power. HK401SX
500 rms @ 4 ohm
650 rms @ 2 ohm
1200 rms @ 1 ohm
1800 rms @ 0.5 ohm
it has 0 gauge inputs
8 gauge outs
Look at it here: http://www.maaudio.com/product.jhtm?id=8&cid=12
It is in perfect condition and has not been used over 500 watts rms.
I changed the screens lights to led's to match with the rest of the amps led's.
How does $300 sound?

I know this sounds stupid, but how do you make a new thread?

nice thanks for the help. I am looking into buying a better amp but right now I'm saving so I can do everything at once.

O and to start a new thread go to the forum in which you want to start one and the new thread button is at the top it looks just like the post reply button you just used to reply in my thread.

I am on the 7th bulk pack of dynamat xtreme, plus like 6 cans of that VB spary stuff from parts express. I think I have gone a little overboard ... but it IS a show car.

There is no overboard on a showcar I'm sure all your hard work will be worth it in the end. I just hope I can figure out where all my rattles and such come from so I can fix them.

Speakers have been ordered and when they get here I will try to build some mdf rings for that last little bit of clearance I need. What tools will be needed?

Do I just take some mdf and cut out a hole like I would for a sub box? If so I usually cut with a jig and clean up with a router..

SPeakers finally came. MB Quart PWE 160's. I looked around for a better way to make mdf rings besides the freehand way i've been doing (which still came out almost perfect after a little sanding and I found this http://volvospeed.com/Mods/speaker_rings.html It looks simple enough I may try it out the only problem I'm having is my local home depot hasn't had mdf for about a month now and I've been trying to start my build since then. :(

I have a similiar attachment for my router ..... it cuts some unbelievably near perfect rings. You can look on my cardomain page to see what I mean.