99 4WD Blazer-Right Front Noise/Hum

I am experiencing increased road noise/humming in right front, especially 40-55 mph range, and have some abnormal tire wear on inside of that tire. I am afraid that means ball joint but would like some assistance in diagnosis. I am a long time user of the great resources here (Heater Core replacement) but am not sure if I want to tackle the suspension/steering. Please advise

Does the sound increase when making left hand turns? If its a left front wheel bearing when making left hand turns it will roar and be quiet when turning right. (I think its been about 2 months since I had this problem) Search wheel bearings. Also when was the last time the truck was greased?

You can check your front end very easily with a jack and a pry bar. Put the jack under the lower control arm to lift the tire off the ground it’s important to put it under the control arm and not the frame to unload the ball joints. Once the wheel is off the ground stick the pry bar under the tire and lift up and down. If you have some small movement that’s ok Blazers have a small amount of tolerance for movement. If you have a lot of movement more than a fraction of an inch it's time for new ball joints. If you grab the wheel at the 3 and 9 o’clock position and move it side to side you can check your tie rods and idler arm/pitman arm and center drag link. If you grab the wheel at the 1 o’clock and 7 o’clock position and move the tire in and out you can check for movement in you wheel bearings. You don't really want to hold the very bottom of the tire incase the jack falls you will get your hand crushed (I've seen this happen).

Good luck
HeavyChevy

Thanks for your input and you were absolutely correct. I had it checked out at a local shop and it was diagnosed with a bad right lower ball joint, idler arm, and wheel bearing assembly. No surprise at 140K miles. I am hesitant to attempt this myself but the $1200 estimate scares me more.

I guess I will price parts and tools for the job and start looking for a good step by step guide/tutorial on this site to follow for a weekends worth of broken knuckles.

If anyone has suggestions please don't hesitate to offer them up...

Thanks again for the help

Here is a link to the "how to replace ball joints" thread.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=545573 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=545573)

That price seems steep to me. In my case, it cost me around 200 for the wheel bearing (1 hour labor and 130 for part). Im not sure what labor times would be on the ball joint, I know that the idler arm should be under an hour too. Depends on labor rates in your area anywho check around.

Well, I am three hours in and I am working on the rivets of the lower ball joint, man I wish I had a air chisel! I know it is going to work but so much wasted time. Should I support the lower control arm with a jackstand as well?

The wheel hub was a challenge, but nothing a little torch and some penetrating oil can't fix.

Does anyone know what steps are necessary to replace the Idler Arm?

I have looked it up at Autozone, but it is very general.

Thanks for your replies...

When I did my ball joints I am almost positive I just let the control arm hang but it's been a while. As far as the idler arm goes it is very easy three bolts and you’re done. Unbolt the arm from the drag link and knock it lose with a pickle fork. If you don't have a pickle fork you can hit the stud with a hammer just put the nut on level with the bottom of the threads so you don’t mushroom the end or you'll never get it out. Once you do that unbolt the two bolts through the frame but be careful not to drop the nuts inside the frame rail because they suck to get out. Reverse for installation and don’t forget to put the cotter pin in.

The Idler Arm is an easy one but it has to go back in the same position it was originally in or your steering geometry will be off.

When you look at the idler arm you’ll notice it has an adjustable slot where it mounts in the frame.
Take measurements off other points on the vehicle and install the new arm/center link height to what the original height was.

Edit;
I drill the rivets out, starting with a 1/8th bit then larger till either the head spins off or I can knock it off with a cold chisel.

The Idler Arm is an easy one but it has to go back in the same position it was originally in or your steering geometry will be off.

When you look at the idler arm you’ll notice it has an adjustable slot where it mounts in the frame.
Take measurements off other points on the vehicle and install the new arm/center link height to what the original height was.

When you take the arm off you are going to have a clean spot (free from oil and road grime) you should be able to place the new one in that spot and get away with out measuring. He is probably going to need an alignment anyways after all the front end work; although I never got one and my blazer drives straight.