A simple pigtail is all I need.
Tippy280
03-10-2008, 12:58 PM
All I want to do is reconnect the resistor pak for a Ford Focus 2001. The pigtail is burnt/broken but the resistor pak tests fine with a voltmeter. I can't see how Ford can ask $43 for just a pigtail conection. I feel 2 wire connectors and some shrink tubing should work the same. Any suggestion, would be appreciated.
Selectron
03-10-2008, 07:31 PM
I'm not sure what type of connector you mean by a pigtail connector, but I don't see any reason why you shouldn't replace the stock connector with a suitable substitute, providing you:
1. Use wire of the same, or heavier, gauge.
2. Use a connector which is adequately rated for the applied current.
3. Make a good job of soldering, or crimping, the connections.
4. Waterproof the work as far as possible, so heatshrink tubing would be good.
Your original connector will have failed for one of two reasons:
1. Corrosion - this would have introduced some resistance, and when you pass current through a resistance you will always dissipate heat at that point - hence the burn marks on the original connector.
2. Arcing, caused by a loose fit - this would burn away the metal surfaces, loosening the fit further still and allowing corrosion to develop, thus introducing extra resistance and therefore localised heating, as above.
Before plugging the two new ends together, I'd smear them liberally with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) or dielectric grease - this will lock out any atmospheric moisture, and thus inhibit future corrosion.
If you're confident that you can make a tidy, reliable, waterproof job of it then I don't see any reason why you shouldn't fit your own connectors.
1. Use wire of the same, or heavier, gauge.
2. Use a connector which is adequately rated for the applied current.
3. Make a good job of soldering, or crimping, the connections.
4. Waterproof the work as far as possible, so heatshrink tubing would be good.
Your original connector will have failed for one of two reasons:
1. Corrosion - this would have introduced some resistance, and when you pass current through a resistance you will always dissipate heat at that point - hence the burn marks on the original connector.
2. Arcing, caused by a loose fit - this would burn away the metal surfaces, loosening the fit further still and allowing corrosion to develop, thus introducing extra resistance and therefore localised heating, as above.
Before plugging the two new ends together, I'd smear them liberally with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) or dielectric grease - this will lock out any atmospheric moisture, and thus inhibit future corrosion.
If you're confident that you can make a tidy, reliable, waterproof job of it then I don't see any reason why you shouldn't fit your own connectors.
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