Overheating problems

Ill start off by saying i am fairly new to working on cars. Last september i was lucky enough to get a 94 v6 camaro for free and i brought it home recently.
However, i noticed problems on the ride back. As i got about half way into my drive, the temperature gauge spiked to 260...there is a antifreeze leak but we filled it up before leaving....do you know what could be wrong?

Ill start off by saying i am fairly new to working on cars. Last september i was lucky enough to get a 94 v6 camaro for free and i brought it home recently.
However, i noticed problems on the ride back. As i got about half way into my drive, the temperature gauge spiked to 260...there is a antifreeze leak but we filled it up before leaving....do you know what could be wrong?
Did it randomly spike up, and then go back down to normal temperature? Or did it stay at that temperature, causing you to pull over and let it cool down? (assuming/hoping you would have done so)

...there is a antifreeze leak but we filled it up before leaving....do you know what could be wrong?

Fix the leak, and by that, I mean FIX the leak, do not use what i call "engine death in stick" products like Barzleaks.

Check the fluid level in the rad then I'd suspect the thermostat. Did it overheat while driving or when idleing?

well it went back to normal after i turned off the car....and it spiked up pretty fast after about 5 minutes of the car running...yes i believe i am going to have to replace some hoses and stuff in order to repair this

If its overheating really quick from a cold start I'd suspect a water pump. Being you don't know the history I go with a wp, thermostat, hoses and fresh AF.

well it went back to normal after i turned off the car....and it spiked up pretty fast after about 5 minutes of the car running...yes i believe i am going to have to replace some hoses and stuff in order to repair this I would suggest you first try bleeding the system of air. On the 3.4, which I'm assuming is what you have being it's a 94 V6. There is no bleed screw for this, and this is for as reason. The radiator in the 3.4 sits higher than the heads. So the highest point the air can reach while being trapped in the system is the radiator cap. So theres no need for a bleed screw since the air will work it's way towards the cap. All you have to do is top off the radiator, and then start the car. stand by the radiator and watch the fluid level. After about 10-15 minutes (maybe longer) the fluid level should drop (which indicates the thermostat just opened). At that time, pour more antifreeze/water mix and top it back off. Keep on watching the fluid level at this point. You may see some air bubbles working their way up, if so, then that's good. Once it seems like there are no more bubbles, then close the cap and take it for a test drive to see if the temperature stays between 190-220. Between those numbers is your average operating temperature.

on a 94 the water seals should be rust out ( I know cuz I have 3 of them and they had the same problem when I bought them) check the ones that go on the front of the engine if there are no leaks check the ones on the side if they are good too is too bad to said but check the ones behind the engine block, if any of those are leaking or have like a rust point on them repalce them with new ones good luck kid

well the leak is near the starter and the gears...flywheel i think it is i forget the name at the moment...but i cannot seem to get to it from any angle

check if it comes from between the flywheel and the engine block, if the leak begins there im sorry dude you got your self a rust seal and to change it you need to remove the tranny and the flywheel, so again check where exactly the leak starts, it could be the intake manifold gasket

freeze plug? could that be it?

could be a freeze plug, could also be the head gasket back there. do you have access to a cooling system pressure tester? it's like a radiator cap with a hose and a pump.

i am not sure but i think i could get a hold of a pressure tester...btw i like your camaro its pretty sweet looking

pretty good advice given so far, one of the reasons this forum is so great ;)

i would start off with the radiator cap off, start the car, let it warm up, and see if you have coolant flow, and proper level at the radiator. as was mentioned youll want to top off the radiator as its running giving it a little throttle a few times after its warmed up helps. and should show if the water pump is doing its job.

you can check your thermostat by putting it in a pot of water and heating it on the stove with a thermometer to tell you what temp it opens at. if it opens at all. but with how cheap those suckers are, id just buy a new one. factor it into the cost of a free car ;)

i also agree, avoid the "pills" or "sticks" that you put in a radiator to plug leaks. they are never a good idea. i refused to do them at the dealership.

also, look over the radiator, make sure its not damaged, or blocked. i know it sounds silly, but one of the number one causes of cooling problems i found at the dealership, was either leaves that got packed up against the radiator, or a plastic bag or something that was sucked into the grill. no airflow.... no cooling. also, there should be a black plastic pannel that bolts to the radiator support, and points strait down, about 5 in. this keeps hot air from recirculating at idle, and creates vacuum to pull air through at speed. if thats not there, it may be contributing.

as for the leak.... im not a big sixer expert, so ill leave that advice to people who are more familiar.