runs hot and stalls

I have a 93 Ford taurus gl with 3.8 V6. While driving at normal temps everything is ok, but when I stop a red lights for long period of time the engine stalls and will have to wait a while before it runs again. in 06 it had a blown head gasket and it was replaced along with the heads and the thermostat. what could cause the problem no check engine light is coming on.:screwy:

Fuel pump or EGR system problem would be my guesses. Does it just stall, or does it stumble, idle rough, or give some other indication of a problem first?

When's the last time the car had a tune up (filters, plugs, wires)? Have you ever added fuel injector cleaner or some fuel system cleaner?

-Rod

Could you elaborate more on the "runs hot" in your title as you don't say how it is related to your problem. When does it happen? Does it occur at the same time when your car is about to stall? Or does it run hot a lot or all the time? Have you checked your coolant level? Do you have any other symptoms occuring like no heat inside?

Okay I wanna say at normal driving condition. Senario your in the vehicle start it up and reaches normal temp while driving and your going long distance. When all of a sudden while you just made a complete stop at a red light at a busy intersection when a few seconds later it start to stall, but you put it in Neutral and give it a little gas and as soon as the light is green you hurry let off the gas return it to idle and put it in drive and continue on without no problems until you come to another busy red light etc, but when it does stall you won't be able to start it without it cooling down.

* All plug wires has been changed along with plugs, all filter been changed stp fuel cleaner been in 3x's. *

I have heard something about that engine and year like the ignition module or some kind of relay gets to hot and causes this problem?

There were issues with ignition modules causing symptoms similar to what you describe, but I thought most of those issues were from the early to mid-80's and mostly resolved by 1993. Often when those were failing, the tachometer would randomly go goofy and bounce around.

-Rod

Hey Rod, does this sound like it could be fuel related, ie. the lack thereof? I'm thinking maybe the fuel filter is getting pugged. This was classic scenario for mechanical fuel pump systems. They would suck up crap in the tank. The car would run until it couldn't get enough gas and stall. You let it sit and the debris will settle away from the pickup, then you could crank the engine and pump gas back to the engine and it starts. Anyway, in my long windedness, this may be happening at the fuel filter and needs to be changed. In this case, change it anyway as a maintenance item even if it's not the cause. My next target would be the fuel pressure regulator. My brain is now fuzzing over, so some verification here would be appreciated. You can pull the vacuum hose to the fpr when you experience one of these stalls and you should be able to start and run the car if it is the problem. Ok, I'm done.

I have a 93 Ford taurus gl with 3.8 V6. While driving at normal temps everything is ok, but when I stop a red lights for long period of time the engine stalls and will have to wait a while before it runs again. in 06 it had a blown head gasket and it was replaced along with the heads and the thermostat. what could cause the problem no check engine light is coming on.:screwy:

First thing you need to determine is if you have an ignition problem or a fuel delivery problem. The way you say it quits at a red light, you should be able to do this in your yard. When it stalls and won't restart check to see if you have spark through the spark plug wires while cranking the engine. I think you will find it's an ignition problem. If indeed it is an ignition problem, I would replace the ignition components in this order. 1. coil 2. ignition module 3. PIP in the distributor.

I will try that what I mean it wont start I mean it doen't turn over as far a fuel related I don't think s cause it is getting fuel to the injectors

I will try that what I mean it wont start I mean it doen't turn over as far a fuel related I don't think s cause it is getting fuel to the injectors

So you just get a single click when you try to start it, or nothing at all? If a single thunk noise but the starter doesn't seem to want to turn the engine over, then maybe you have an extremely rich condition that is hydrolocking the engine, until the car sits long enough for the excess fuel to evaporate and/or leak past the piston rings.

-Rod

well i have a 1997 also doing the samething. however, i know have a new prob. will not start till i floor the gas peddel after turning the key (but not starting it ) 6 times then it might start. i have changed the water pump, alt and belt, fuel fliter,ccrm.and thermastat now when it does start befor killing the bat. when i put into gear it dies. NOTHING LIKE A FOND ON ROAD DEAD FORD. its a 1997 ford turaus 3.0 dohc 6cyc. vin U. this all started after it overheated and had to be towed home.i have chescked the iac. maf. pvc. checked all vacuum lines, fuel presser key off, key on and running, and the egr system all check good . no sign of a blown head gasket. compression check also good. WTF this ford sucks.

You say you checked KOEO and KOER fuel pressure, what was it for each? Did the pressure bleed off rapidly on KOEO? Since holding the throttle to the floor will get the engine started, that could suggest a rich condition since holding the accelerator to the floor puts the car in "clear flood" mode. Have you checked for diagnostic codes?

-Rod

yes check all the koeo pressure is 30+ running is 70+ with no key its 30. However i did get it to start today. runs great till i put into gear then runs badly almost dies idle drops to less than 500 then back up to 1500+. no codes used the obd II to make sure and there were no codes at all. it took me like 30 minits to get it start. for the first time after it warms up it starts right up with ruff idle. i am looking at the IAC everthing other has been changed.and the MAF is clean I AM LOST WITH THIS CAR. I would juck it if it was not my step daughters who's in the army and overseas right now.

Ok .I am back. After $550 worth of parts I have a blown head gasket on the front side #5 and #6 cylinder. Took it and had the pcm read. Wish I had done that first. Lesson learned. Now do I have to take the exhaust and intake off or can I just take the valve cover off and remove the head. After I take the neg. bat. Cable off and drain the oil and water. It’s a 97 ohv. 3.0 [email protected]

Sorry to hear that the head gaskets are the issue. Having never changed head gaskets on one of these, others will likely chime in and offer up their experiences. But for starters, since the heads contain the valves and are how the air/fuel gets to the cylinders and the exhaust exits, yes, you will need to take the intake and exhaust manifolds loose from the head. Once you confirm that just the gasket is bad and it's not a cracked head or cracked block you'll also want to have the heads planed/decked to make sure they are not warped which would cause the new gaskets to leak shortly after you got it all back together.

-Rod

wow just got everything back together and now when i put it into gear it want to die.

Sounds like you probably have a vacuum leak. Double check all the vacuum lines and the intake air tubing. Make sure the PCV system is connected and that the intake air tubes are tight and properly attached.

Do you have experience listening for vacuum leaks?

-Rod