'01 Voyager - Dead Cluster???
BlackOnBlack
03-04-2008, 04:19 PM
Anyone have this issue? All gauges, including fuel and the tach, check engine lights, and the turn signals are completely dead. The only thing that works is the backlight illumination that goes on with the headlights. I tried disconnecting the battery overnight, removing the gauge cluster to make sure that the wire connector in back didn't come out, and had the body control module tested. Other people on this forum posted this exact issue, but didn't follow up with the problem. Any help would be HUGELY appreciated.
RIP
03-05-2008, 02:46 PM
Most issues with the cluster are fixed by retouching the solder joints on the cluster circuit board where the connector connects. Course I read a lot about just the tach and/or speedo dropping out, not everything on the cluster. Plus they are usually associated with no start issues. You may have an "out of the norm" contact that needs retouching. If you need a new cluster they cost around $150 at the dealer. I've seen them cheaper at Ebay Motors. There's always a junkyard.
Looking at a schematic it appears power comes to the cluster at pin 6. Doesn't show much beyond that. I'm reading more lately about corroded IPMs and Forward Controllers creating electrical problems. If the cluster isn't getting PCI bus data, it may kill the cluster. The bus runs through the IPM and maybe the FC.
How did you have the BCM tested? Was it local or did you send it off somewhere? Is everything else working ok besides the cluster?
Looking at a schematic it appears power comes to the cluster at pin 6. Doesn't show much beyond that. I'm reading more lately about corroded IPMs and Forward Controllers creating electrical problems. If the cluster isn't getting PCI bus data, it may kill the cluster. The bus runs through the IPM and maybe the FC.
How did you have the BCM tested? Was it local or did you send it off somewhere? Is everything else working ok besides the cluster?
BlackOnBlack
03-05-2008, 05:04 PM
I'm sure that its not the cluster itself as the hazard lights and turn signals aren't working either. I sent the BCM to a company that tests such things and they said it was fine. I'm really starting to think that its the IPM or the FCM.
The van has 192K miles on it, but for some stupid reason I made it a restoration project, dumped a few grand on parts and countless hours cleaning it and fixing it up. If I can get this issue resolve, the thing will be great. I'm using my code scanner to acts as my speedo and tach. Everyone must think I'm an A-hole for not using my turn signals though.
Someone else posted an identical problem but no one responded. I sent a PM to the poster, but she said that the problem magically disappeared one day. Thanks for the response.
The van has 192K miles on it, but for some stupid reason I made it a restoration project, dumped a few grand on parts and countless hours cleaning it and fixing it up. If I can get this issue resolve, the thing will be great. I'm using my code scanner to acts as my speedo and tach. Everyone must think I'm an A-hole for not using my turn signals though.
Someone else posted an identical problem but no one responded. I sent a PM to the poster, but she said that the problem magically disappeared one day. Thanks for the response.
djswitzer
03-06-2008, 11:17 AM
I had a similar issue (except the signals were working) and also replaced the BCM with nothing changed. Also resoldered the instrument cluster PCB with nothing.
After all of the above I removed the middle A/C panel and found that the middle cable had a very bad connection (one of the pins had shorted and burned out at some time). I cleaned up the pin and put it back together and everything works fine now.
It only takes 4 screws (2 on top and 2 behind the little plastic face above the cupholer you pry off) and can be done in about 15 minutes.
Hope this helps.
After all of the above I removed the middle A/C panel and found that the middle cable had a very bad connection (one of the pins had shorted and burned out at some time). I cleaned up the pin and put it back together and everything works fine now.
It only takes 4 screws (2 on top and 2 behind the little plastic face above the cupholer you pry off) and can be done in about 15 minutes.
Hope this helps.
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