Pulling the ,96 Lumina's engine need some advice

I've decided to pull the engine (3.1L). on my '96 Lumina. Do I have to pull the tranny with it or will come out by itself?

The intake manifold gasket went and it got water in the oil and vice versa. I want to clean it up right and put fresh gaskets all around. It's got 100k on it and the car is superb shape. Actually the car was a freebie from a friend who didn't want to mess with gasket.

I've started unbolting everything and tagging all the wires and connections. This is my first FWD engine pull. Removed a few RWD V8s and rebuilt before.

Thanks,
JD

There should be room to seperate them. There's only a few FWD I can think of that have to have the whole mess pulled and seperated.

1994-96 VEHICLES

Properly relieve the fuel system pressure as outlined in Fuel System (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0e/d4/77/0900823d800ed477.jsp) of this repair guide.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Scribe a mark around the hood hinges to ensure proper reinstallation. With the help of an assistant, remove the hood assembly.
Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container.
Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly.
Remove the transaxle fluid filler tube.
Remove the engine mount strut brackets.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Position a drainPan under the oil pan, then drain the engine oil.
Remove the front exhaust manifold pipe. Remove the front exhaust pipe heat shield.
Unfasten the lower rear transaxle bolt/screw.
Detach the electrical connector from the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS).
Unfasten the engine mount frame side nuts.
Remove the flywheel inspection cover.
Remove the starter motor. For details, please refer to the procedure in Engine Electrical (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0e/c7/2c/0900823d800ec72c.jsp) of this repair guide.
Unfasten the torque converter bolts/screws.
Remove the transaxle mount.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Remove the coolant recovery reservoir.
Remove the serpentine drive belt, as outlined in Routine Maintenance (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0e/e6/a1/0900823d800ee6a1.jsp) of this repair guide.
Disconnect the accelerator control and cruise control servo cable from the throttle body.
Remove the accelerator control cable bracket and position the cable aside.
Disconnect the power brake booster vacuum hose from the upper intake manifold.
Unfasten the plastic cover from the shock tower.
Remove the alternator front and rear braces, then remove the alternator from the vehicle.
Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes.
Tie straps around the ignition wiring harness and the engine mount strut and A/C compressor bracket.
Remove the power steering pump pulley, then unfasten the pump retaining bolts/screws and position the pump aside. Leave the fluid lines attached.
Disconnect the heater inlet and outlet hoses.
Detach the upper radiator hose from the engine and lower radiator hose from the water pump.
Unfasten the engine mount strut and A/C compressor bracket bolts/screw and position the compressor aside. Do NOT disconnect the refrigerant lines.
Disconnect the automatic transaxle vacuum pipe.
Tag and detach the electrical connectors from the following components:

Knock sensor
Heated oxygen sensor
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
Wheel speed sensors

Detach the electrical connectors from the ignition coil.
Tag and detach the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve and the Throttle Position (TP) sensor electrical connectors.
Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the upper intake manifold.
Unfasten the transaxle-to-engine bolts/screws.
Install a safely bolt between the alternator bracket and the engine lift bracket.
Suitable support the transaxle with a jack or floor stands.
Attach a suitable engine lifting device and remove the engine from the vehicle. Check for connected wires and hoses as the engine is coming out of the body.
Place the engine on a workstand.
To install:

With an assistant, install a lifting device onto the engine and position into the vehicle.
Remove the lifting device.
Remove the floor stands or jack from under the transaxle.
Remove the safely bolt from the alternator bracket and front engine lift bracket.
Install the transaxle-to-engine bolts. Tighten to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
Connect the vacuum hoses to the upper intake manifold.
Attach the electrical connections to the TP sensor and IAC valve.
Fasten the electrical connector to the ignition coil.
Attach the following electrical connectors, as tagged during removal:

Knock sensor
Heated oxygen sensor
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
Wheel speed sensors

Connect the vacuum modulator pipe to the modulator.
Position the A/C compressor and engine mount strut and install the compressor bracket bolts/nuts.
Connect the lower radiator hose to the water pump and the upper radiator hose to the engine.
Fasten the heater inlet and outlet hoses.
Position the power steering pump and secure with the retaining bolts/screws. Install the power steering pump pulley.
Unfasten the tie straps from around the ignition wiring harness and engine mount strut and A/C compressor bracket.
Connect the fuel feed and return pipes.
Install the alternator, then install the front and rear braces.
Position the cable, then install the accelerator control cable bracket.
Connect the accelerator control and cruise control servo cable to the throttle body.
Install the serpentine drive belt, as outlined in Routine Maintenance (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0e/e6/a1/0900823d800ee6a1.jsp) of this repair guide.
Install the coolant recovery reservoir.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Fasten the transaxle mount to the engine block.
Install the torque converter bolts/screws.
Install the starter motor. For details, please refer to Engine Electrical (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0e/c7/2c/0900823d800ec72c.jsp) of this repair guide.
Fasten the flywheel inspection cover.
Install the engine mount frame side nuts to the drivetrain and front suspension.
Attach the VSS electrical connector.
Fasten the lower rear transaxle bolt/screw.
Install the front exhaust manifold pipe heat shield, then install the front exhaust manifold pipe.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Refill the engine with the proper quantity of clean engine oil.
Install the engine mount strut brackets.
Install the transaxle fluid filler tube.
Install the air cleaner and duct assembly.
With the help of an assistant, install the hood assembly, making sure to align the marks made during removal.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Refill the engine with the proper type and amount of coolant and engine oil.
Check the fluid levels and inspect vehicle for fluid leaks before and after starting the engine.
Road test the vehicle and recheck for fluid leaks.

You do not have remove the hood or transmission dipstick.I have done them with the hood still on and the engine will clear with the transmission diptick tube in .Put a floor jack under the nearest end of the transmission pan with a 2x4 in between.Dorman Prouducts has an intake gasket kit including new intake bolts and seen this from a Carquest customer expo yesterday.The intake gaskets are made out of metal with a rubber sealing area instead of plastic.No one ever torques bellhousing bolts,I tighten them with my Snap On air ratchet with the bolts started first and are tight right away.If you have a hose that does come off hard,there is a tool called a hose removal tool and is oftenly called a hose hook.It is basicaly a screwdriver redone with the end bent with a taped end at about 45 degrees.

Wow. That's what I call a complete reply. I wonder how he ever got stuck with the handle "Slacker"...

jd, I make a few modifications to my own vehicles, to make the install easier...I cut the metal water line at the front to about 2" long...I then use heater hose, 5/8 or 3/4, can't remember which, to wrap around the engine. I then disregard the 2 small hoses under the throttle body...one neat hose. On three different cars, I haven't had a problem...more mechanic friendly!

Wow, thanks for all the great advice. I will let you know what happens, today I think I got all the bolts loosened. I've been using sandwhich ziplock baggies and writing on them exactly where that particular bolt, nut or bracket came from. Got quite a stack.

Hope I can get it all back together in the end.

Thanks,
JD

Got the engine out and on the stand. YES! Anyway, now I'm gonna pull the heads clean the 'peanut butter' of it and put all new gaskets on.

Any suggestions on how to clean the goo, that used to be the oil, out? I'm not removing the rotating assembly.

Also, how do I set the valve lash when I put the heads/pushrods/rockers back on. I won't be able to run this one with the valve covers off and adjust like I do my '67 chevy.

And please recommend a place to get the replacement gaskets or the model number for a set.

Thanks,
JD

Dorman products sells the intake gasket kit for the 3.4 and the 3100 with new intake bolts and oil pump drive o ring.It beats going to the dealer getting new intake bolts.The intake gakets from the kit are made out of metal instead of plastic which is a great idea.Make sure you put the pushrods in the right spot or you will bend the valves.You do not have to set the valve lash,tighten the rocker arms down and there is a special tool out there to get the push rods out without removing them if you want to try it this way.Do not reef on the rocker arms when tightening them down,break the pedistals this way in half and I have seen this for the first time while back.

Do not reef on the rocker arms when tightening them down

I don't understand this apparent slang word. Can't find it anywhere.

Can anyone explain 'reefing' and how not to do it while tightening down a bolt?

sad-lumina-owner please look at the post dates before posting in outdated threads.

this is closed.