Bizarre Heater Blower and other Electrical Issues

This afternoon (about twenty minutes after paying it off completely--of course), my 2000 Voyager's blower motor, turn signals and backup lights stopped working simultaneously.

I first checked the fan fuse and found it burned out. OK, fine...replaced it and all appeared to be working correctly (fan--all speeds, turn signals-all OK, backup lights--fine) for about ten seconds when the fuse popped again.

I replaced the fan relay thinking that a good relay shouldn't pop the fuse, but a bad or going-bad relay might. Replaced the fuse again, and this time there was no delay, it popped immediately.

I bought a Chilton's manual and studied the wiring diagram. I can see where the backup lights and blower motor are on the same circuit (fuse 12 under the dash) but can't see how the turn signals are in any way related.

I am assuming that there's a short (wires rubbed bare allowing these two distinctly separate circuits to cross) somewhere, but have no idea where a good place to begin my search would be.

The very first indication that I had something not-quite-right with the van was the Air Bag light on the dash would go on and off intermittently. I have not noticed whether or not it is still doing it now that this other stuff is happening. Would this also be somehow involved?

Does anyone here have a suggestion as to where to start looking?

Update: After looking at/moving/wiggling all sorts of wires/connectors/etc., some related to those in question and most not, I replaced the fuse again. Everything worked for several minutes and then blew the fuse once again. I can see/feel/smell nothing out of the ordinary anywhere. I'm about ready to pull out my hair, and I don't have any to spare.

Update x 2: I've been crawling in, around and under the van and have not yet found any problems. I pulled the flasher relay so I could keep the fan running so as not to turn the grandbabies into popsicles. I don't like this "solution" as it is begging for a traffic stop and is dangerous as well. Will continue to look.

These are the wiring diagrams I'm attempting to use:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j8...stpok/Fig1.jpg (http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j82/Phssstpok/Fig1.jpg)
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j8...tpok/Fig2a.jpg (http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j82/Phssstpok/Fig2a.jpg)
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j8...tpok/Fig2b.jpg (http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j82/Phssstpok/Fig2b.jpg)
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j8...stpok/Fig3.jpg (http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j82/Phssstpok/Fig3.jpg)

They are the generic ones in the back of my Chilton's manual. I apologize that these pictures are so small. I hadn't realized that they'd get downsized once I uploaded them to photobucket.

Update x 3: I talked to a lugnut <g> friend this evening after emailing him the pertinent pages of the schematic and he's of the opinion that the problem is in the turn signal switch on the steering column. If any of you need scanned copies of these, I'll be happy to email them to you for your input on this issue.

Update x 4: Air Bag dash warning light is NOT coming on with the flasher removed from the fuse block.

Update x 5: Per HeadlessHorseman1's request, checked VIN for possible recall on this vehicle--No incomplete Recalls or Customer Satisfaction Notifications Exist.

Update x 6. Per HeadlessHorseman1's request, original message removed from incorrect thread; this one started.


This problem has me :banghead:

Update x 4: Air Bag dash warning light is NOT coming on with the flasher removed from the fuse block.

This problem has me :banghead:
With the flasher removed from the fuse block, are all of the other problem symptoms resolved (blower motor, etc)?

With the flasher removed from the fuse block, are all of the other problem symptoms resolved (blower motor, etc)?

Backup lights work, blower motor works-all speeds and the air bag warning light only comes on during the bulb test at startup.

I've priced the turn signal flasher ($51) but am somewhat reluctant to buy it until I've verified that something in the turn signal actuator isn't causing the problem.

Backup lights work, blower motor works-all speeds and the air bag warning light only comes on during the bulb test at startup.

I've priced the turn signal flasher ($51) but am somewhat reluctant to buy it until I've verified that something in the turn signal actuator isn't causing the problem.
It sounds like everything else is OK including the airbag light going out at startup (which is normal as it indicates airbags and impact sensors are armed). In other words, there are NO other problems, right?

It sounds like everything else is OK including the airbag light going out at startup (which is normal as it indicates airbags and impact sensors are armed). In other words, there are NO other problems, right?

No other problems that I'm able to determine, anyway. Now, if I can just nail the ol' lady down so that the van sits still for a couple of hours, I'll pull apart the steering column to see if there's anything in the contacts....

Update (4 hours later): Got the multifunction switch out. Fairly simple operation, undo three screws in the cowling and two screws in the switch and unplug the wiring harness. It's a modular unit--turn signals, wipers with intermittent, washer, bright/dim, and hazard.

It looks as if it can be disassembled, but tearing it apart concerns me. I would like to test it, but have NO clue as to what I'm supposed to find across the seven terminals in one row and the five in the other. So far, I have been unable to find a diagram or schematic for this thing. I believe I have the problem narrowed down to the flasher relay ($51) and/or the multifunction switch ($76). If I guess wrong (without knowing how/what to test), this could cost me dearly.

Based on everything you've said, I'd bet money on the flasher module being the culprit. In all of the years I've been on this forum and many years before, I cannot recall anyone ever having a problem with a multi-function switch. Flasher modules rarely go, but they occasionally DO go.

On your vehicle, are there any other flasher modules of the same part number you can swap out with the one that you've already pulled? You may also be able to scavenge a junkyard part for a lot less than $51. If you can get your hands on a known good flasher and a multi-meter, you may be able to compare test results.

I may be able to help you with testing. What's the part number for your flasher module?

Based on everything you've said, I'd bet money on the flasher module being the culprit. In all of the years I've been on this forum and many years before, I cannot recall anyone ever having a problem with a multi-function switch. Flasher modules rarely go, but they occasionally DO go.

I'm probably wrong, but I assumed that if the four-way part is working, the turn signals would also be working. Obviously, however, if I were any good at automotive electronics, I wouldn't be tearing my hair out over this like I have been.

On your vehicle, are there any other flasher modules of the same part number you can swap out with the one that you've already pulled? You may also be able to scavenge a junkyard part for a lot less than $51. If you can get your hands on a known good flasher and a multi-meter, you may be able to compare test results.

As far as I can see, this is the ONLY flasher module of any sort on the vehicle. None of the local auto parts places nearer than ten miles carry the module in stock; I'll have to have them order it.

I may be able to help you with testing. What's the part number for your flasher module?

The numbers on the module are:
4686094
50732
2(4) x 320P - 12V

I don't know what part you need, so that's every number on the top of the thing.

I'm sorry it's taken me so long to get this information back to you, but I started feeling rather poorly with the flu Friday afternoon and have gotten progressively worse. Things started to get better around noon today. It's been a very rough weekend.

See if these schematics are any better: http://www.oplin.org/databases/proxy2/proxy.php?qurl=http%3a%2f%2farrc.epnet.com%2fautoa sp%2fframerq.asp

Type 123456789 in the block, click submit, click submit again, scroll to "Auto Repair Resourse Center" and click, select your year and model etc.

See if these schematics are any better: http://www.oplin.org/databases/proxy2/proxy.php?qurl=http%3a%2f%2farrc.epnet.com%2fautoa sp%2fframerq.asp

Type 123456789 in the block, click submit, click submit again, scroll to "Auto Repair Resourse Center" and click, select your year and model etc.

Found 'em. I've printed out the relevant pages and am working on them. I'll let you know if there's any new information.

Thanks!

Found 'em. I've printed out the relevant pages and am working on them. I'll let you know if there's any new information.

Thanks!
The 4686094 is your flasher Pt#. If you have no dealers around, you can order parts from Chrysler Direct http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
the flasher is about $34.

I've replaced the flasher and the multi-switch on the column and I'm still blowing fuses. Only one more strange symptom has popped up: On the gear selector display when in Park, the "boxes" that surround each letter are all on. It works normally when anything but Park is selected.

I am unable to find anything under the dash that could be giving me problems. I spent this afternoon literally tearing the dash apart so I could better see the wiring I've already looked over several times. ARGH!

I'm so near the end of my sanity on this problem that I'm :runaround: .

Bump.

Bump.

The Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) in the tranny controls the PRNDL3 boxes. I believe it also controls reverse lights.

The Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) in the tranny controls the PRNDL3 boxes. I believe it also controls reverse lights.

The transmission was recently worked on and all problems started a week or ten days after this work was done. Since the backup lights are on the same circuit as the blower motor and turn signals, is it possible that my entire problem resides in the TRS?

Also, is this switch internal to the transmission or is it affixed to the outside where the shift linkage is?

The TRS is internal. It's on the valve body. The connector is external. Might want to take a look at it. Is this the problem? At this point your guess is as good as mine but, it sure is worth consideration. What work was done on the tranny? Did they go inside?

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1a/47/90/0900823d801a4790/repairInfoPages.htm Scroll down to 41TE 4 speed tranny

The TRS is internal. It's on the valve body. The connector is external. Might want to take a look at it. Is this the problem? At this point your guess is as good as mine but, it sure is worth consideration.

About all I'll be able to do is check out the external connector. Maybe I'll get lucky and find the problem there.

What work was done on the tranny? Did they go inside?

It was a complete rebuild, so yeah, they went inside. :(

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1a/47/90/0900823d801a4790/repairInfoPages.htm Scroll down to 41TE 4 speed tranny

If the problem is the switch itself, the rebuild guy may have to be the one to replace it.

Thanks.

Any resolution to this? I'm having the exact same problem, and suspect a relay has gone bad, but don't know how to test those.