Upcoming weekend project.

I guess 300,000 miles of being rode hard and put away wet finally caught up to my engine. I haven't definitively figured out the cause yet, but cylinder 6 has no compression. I am thinking it's a valve or head gasket. The plug was a little sooty, but no oil on it, so the problem isn't likely to be a broken piston or broken rings. Pulling the valve cover off revealed no broken valve springs or rocker arms. No noise at all. No water in the oil, no oil in the tailpipe. No smoke and the oil pressure is just fine at 45PSI @ 1500 RPM.

To be honest, it hit a high RPM when I was showing it to someone and I think I floated a valve.

Anyways, long story short, I won't touch it tonight because I want to see my Suns with Shaq beat up on the Lakers, but tomorrow night I will likely pull off the passenger head and see if there's damage beyond the head itself. Wish me luck!

good luck, im STILL waiting to get my car back from the paint shop, im getting pissed too. after that though then engine mods are next starting with a nice new dual exhaust setup, headers and all. cosmeticly, the car is perfect and nothing more needs to be done.

That's pretty sad at only 300,000 miles, but you might have to pull the heads. As you get into the project and have the right rocker cover off, check the valve stem standing height with both rockers backed off. If one isn't at about 1.8" spring height, you may have a stuck/bent valve.

Any numbers from a compression or cylinder leakage test? That might reveal a lot.

to bad my Lakers beat your Suns...but it was a great game

broken toys make sad boys. good luck and watch those shiney white things (your fingers) 463

to bad my Lakers beat your Suns...but it was a great game

Yes, it was a great game. We were just plain beat. Outplayed, but we're working a new player into our team so it was just as well. I liked what I saw with Shaq, and once he gets conditioned, watch out!

Anyway, I discovered that I floated a valve, as suspected. #6 exhaust was bent JUST enough to not seal, but the thing that has me stoked is that even after 300k miles, there was no visible wear on the cylinders. The honing crosshatch pattern was intact from the top of the cylinder to the bottom of the stroke, no ridging or tapering evident ANYWHERE on the engine! The piston crown on cyl 2 (the only one that didn't take on coolant when I popped the head) was shiny clean, looked like a new piston. I'm jazzed!

I know this is random but i saw a decal someone had on their silverado's rear window that said "American boys drive american toys" i thought of putting that on mine but i dont wanna decal mine all up. didnt mean to jack your thread silicon lol

good to hear that at 300000 all is well inside the beast. bent valve not to bad. always prep for the worst and expect the best.

good to hear that at 300000 all is well inside the beast. bent valve not to bad. always prep for the worst and expect the best.

Welp, it's put back together again and I am back on the road again.

On the road again! :bananasmi :bananasmi Sing it Willy!

i love happy endings. 463 :chevy:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/images/smilies/burnout.gif

What? No carnage photos? Not even one of these?

http://72.19.213.157/files/BentValve.jpg

Reading your news reminds me of tearing down my '94 LT1 at 110K. The worst cylinder had 0.0004 (four tenths, not thousandths) taper and OOR. That's within factory production tolerances for a new engine, not even wear tolerances. And that 110K miles were not kind, gentle miles. It ate three sets of rear tires in that span.

That was just another episode which made me a firm believer in PAO synthetics from end to end.

What? No carnage photos? Not even one of these?

http://72.19.213.157/files/BentValve.jpg

Reading your news reminds me of tearing down my '94 LT1 at 110K. The worst cylinder had 0.0004 (four tenths, not thousandths) taper and OOR. That's within factory production tolerances for a new engine, not even wear tolerances. And that 110K miles were not kind, gentle miles. It ate three sets of rear tires in that span.

That was just another episode which made me a firm believer in PAO synthetics from end to end.

Your picture looks very, very close. I'll get a picture of it as soon as I can find my power adapter for my camera.

One thing I did while I was in there was used a Dremel on the piston crown to remove the burrs so that I wouldn't have problems down the road with that (increased detonation, a stress point for a crack to form, yadda yadda).

What? No carnage photos? Not even one of these?

http://72.19.213.157/files/BentValve.jpg

Reading your news reminds me of tearing down my '94 LT1 at 110K. The worst cylinder had 0.0004 (four tenths, not thousandths) taper and OOR. That's within factory production tolerances for a new engine, not even wear tolerances. And that 110K miles were not kind, gentle miles. It ate three sets of rear tires in that span.

That was just another episode which made me a firm believer in PAO synthetics from end to end. Blue BowtieWhat? No carnage it's all about the carnage carnage carnage right Blue Bowtie.:2cents:

What? No carnage photos? Not even one of these?

http://72.19.213.157/files/BentValve.jpg

Reading your news reminds me of tearing down my '94 LT1 at 110K. The worst cylinder had 0.0004 (four tenths, not thousandths) taper and OOR. That's within factory production tolerances for a new engine, not even wear tolerances. And that 110K miles were not kind, gentle miles. It ate three sets of rear tires in that span.

That was just another episode which made me a firm believer in PAO synthetics from end to end.

Sorry about the crappy resolution on my camera (it's a state-of-the-art zero-point-three megapixel LOL), but here you go.

http://www.silicon212.org/bentvalve.jpg

The inset depicts the valve turned 180 degrees to show the bend.

Meh. Nothing a little JB Weld and a can of SeaFoam couldn't fix.

Sorry, I may use duck tape, bailing wire and chewing gum, but I REFUSE to use JB Weld!

The SeaFoam on the other hand ... :)

Wait, okay.... first off I've got a comment for this whole thread. This is a perfect example of someone who knows exactly what they're doing. This thread isn't one of those "...it does this..." "...what is it?..." "...How do I fix it cheap and easy..." "...I think it's this even though everyone tells me different..." Congratulations on such a finely tuned engine too... I really mean that, after so many miles with the cylinder walls in such good shape, thats something to be proud of. And now on to my "...why do you think that?..." question.

Whats wrong with JB Weld? I still have yet to use it (on my custom chainsaw engine R/C car project by the way) but I've heard nothing but good things about it from people who've used it.

Wait, okay.... first off I've got a comment for this whole thread. This is a perfect example of someone who knows exactly what they're doing. This thread isn't one of those "...it does this..." "...what is it?..." "...How do I fix it cheap and easy..." "...I think it's this even though everyone tells me different..." Congratulations on such a finely tuned engine too... I really mean that, after so many miles with the cylinder walls in such good shape, thats something to be proud of. And now on to my "...why do you think that?..." question.

Whats wrong with JB Weld? I still have yet to use it (on my custom chainsaw engine R/C car project by the way) but I've heard nothing but good things about it from people who've used it.

Nothing's wrong with JB Weld, I was making a 'funny'. I actually use it a lot. It's saved my bacon more than once.

Oh okay, so you can be another "testimonial" so to speak. How good is it? Could it hold a cracked cast aluminum flywheel together that will spin at roughly estimated maximum 8000 RPM? I don't want it to burst on me.

Oh and P.S... The SeaFoam comment should have given it away to me that you were joking.

Oh okay, so you can be another "testimonial" so to speak. How good is it? Could it hold a cracked cast aluminum flywheel together that will spin at roughly estimated maximum 8000 RPM? I don't want it to burst on me.

Oh and P.S... The SeaFoam comment should have given it away to me that you were joking.

;)

I would not use JB Weld on a flywheel. It's great stuff but it's still a two-part epoxy and I wouldn't want to use it on something that's going to see some serious centrifugal force such as a flywheel, even spinning at 800 RPM, let alone 8000 RPM.

I've used it for repairing carburetor castings, aluminum intake manifolds (which have sprung leaks due to corrosion in the water passages), that sort of thing.