'97 Taurus GL 3.0L, 152K: Oil Pan Leak?

Just changed the oil again this past weekend and noticed something very different for the first time: a thin layer of oil smeared across the bottom of the oil pan, then also across the bottom of the transmission pan, and also sections of the exhaust pipe and maybe even as far back as the cat. Looks like a leak sprayed around by air rushing underneath the car while driving. No drops have fallen onto the pavement with the vehicle stationery. Also, only dropped out just over 3 qts of oil (although I let it go longer than usual - almost 5k - trying to synch the change up with the other car, so it might've burned a little oil, too).

Looks like the oil pan might be leaking on the side underneath the serp belt and pulleys. This is where the wetness appears to be the worst. Is this a big deal to change? Looks like the exhaust pipe has to be removed, which will probably be a fiasco - right? - because it's never been touched. How far back will I have to drop the exhaust? I'm betting these bolts will probably break on me, too. Any good way to lessen the likelihood of this?

For me, first things first. Have you wiped everything down good and dry to let the leak become more self-evident? I am suspicious of the oil pan seal, especially at the front curved section under the crank where you said you saw the most oil and I would also be suspicious of the front main seal at the crank. It could also be leaking from some place higher up on the engine. If it is not any of those, then I would formulate a plan on the oil pan. To me the very first choice would be a glue/adhesive/epoxy/silicone, possibly a patch if necessary. There are several out there that would be good for this job. My second choice would be to weld it. With those two methods, the oil will need to be completely drained. Taking the pan off would be an absolute last resort for me, as you have stated so well all the complications/aggravations of its removal.

I dont understand where welding came in the picture. but dont be welding on an oil pan while it is on anything. You will find out what (internal combustion) is all about.
The engine definatlly needs to be cleaned so you can locate or isolate the problem.
Look higher up on the engine after it is clean. A valve cover gasket could be your culpret.
A non drip situation and that much oil being gone tells me your burning alot of oil, Can you see it smoke? If there is nothing on the ground in 5K, It cant be too bad. A little oil goes a long way.
Clean and inspect and go from there,

I did wipe the oil off everywhere I saw it - I normally wipe away dirt/oil underneath when I change the oil anyway. There is usually a thin film of grease underneath but this was noticeably worse.

I also looked all around the top of the engine and did not see any leaks there. The engine is still very dry up top - even after 152k miles now. I mean - there's NO wetness anywhere that I can see.

Also, no smoke out the tailpipe that I've noticed - either while driving or on the backside of the car while stationary. As far as the 3Qt drop, the car only holds 4.5Qts, and although I've never actually measured how much oil comes out on a normal 3k oil change, I'd bet that it's between 3.5 and 4.0 Qts - so maybe 1Qt was lost over the additional 2k miles I let the car go waiting to do the oil change. I'll measure the oil again on the next 3k oil change to see if this is in fact the case.

So I guess I'll try the sealant method first. That makes the most sense to me given the potential pain involved with dropping the pan. This will have to wait until the next oil change, however, since I'm not going to drain the pan just to apply the sealant.

Another repair solution came to me if you can pinpoint a hole in your oil pan. I can't remember if the auto parts stores have these for gas tanks and other similar repairs like oil pans, but a sheet metal screw with a rubber gasket like a metal roofing screw will do great. I like it better than glues, etc. though I have all of the above, so I'd try the glue, then the screw. The screw can be done with the oil in the pan. Not sure if there is a glue that can go on oil. A sheet metal patch can be installed with the glue around rather on the oil weep hole so that it too can be done with the oil still in the oil pan. I think the rtv or other silicone sealants could be gooped on while the oil is in the pan and still cure to the pan, but you have to get it fully covered on a clean surface. I like using brake cleaner. Have fun.

I'm not familiar with the sealing screws, but they sound like an interesting concept. I'd think you'd want to drain the oil immediately after installing the screw though since there may be filings in the pan, especially if you have to drill a pilot hole or if they are self drilling screws. Of course I'm sure you are aware of the cautions for drilling depth if you need to drill a pilot hole.

-Rod

Actually, with this method, either you "chase" the existing hole with the point of the screw or you use a sharp punch to open up the hole enough for the hole to accept the screw. Either approach would create minimal or no concerning chips or filings. One would hope that the pickup screan and the magnitized plug would do their job too.

The gasket on the Vulcan is known to bulge out.

You can either replace the gasket or loosen the bolts and then use a small screwdriver or drift to help push the gasket back to it's correct position.

Mike
:smokin:

I believe there is an updated gasket from the dealer only and check this out.It is made out of plastic and I have see one so far

Thanks for all the input. Not sure where I'm going with this but most like the least intrusive solution for starters. Really don't want to pull down the exhaust unless it needs to be replaced, and right now it still looks like it's OK.