Copies of tires - NOT resin
klutz_100
02-15-2008, 02:08 PM
Guys, I am asking this on behalf of a friend and hope you can help.
How do make copies of tires NOT using resin but rather a rubber like material?
I know it can be done but I have no real idea of the materials available/used.
Are there "rubbery" resins out there? Or do you use a silicon? If so, how do you make the mold so that the silicon mold and silicon copy don't fuse?
Thanks in advance for any help/advice/knowledge you can share.
:thumbsup:
How do make copies of tires NOT using resin but rather a rubber like material?
I know it can be done but I have no real idea of the materials available/used.
Are there "rubbery" resins out there? Or do you use a silicon? If so, how do you make the mold so that the silicon mold and silicon copy don't fuse?
Thanks in advance for any help/advice/knowledge you can share.
:thumbsup:
MPWR
02-15-2008, 02:37 PM
There's a good question! I'm also curious to know more about this. Here's what I can tell you-
I think Micromark may make a set for casting tyres, but I know almost nothing about it.
Tyres are difficult to cast due to their shape. It would be tough (but likely possible) to get both sidewalls filled without air bubbles.
Silicone could be used, provided you used a suitable mold release solution. I believe Alumilite makes one- brush it on a cured silicone mold and you uncured silicone won't stick (permanently) to it. It's highly useful for two part molds.
I expect that a pressure pot or vac chamber would be extremely useful for trying this- especially if you're trying to replicate a tread pattern.
I think Micromark may make a set for casting tyres, but I know almost nothing about it.
Tyres are difficult to cast due to their shape. It would be tough (but likely possible) to get both sidewalls filled without air bubbles.
Silicone could be used, provided you used a suitable mold release solution. I believe Alumilite makes one- brush it on a cured silicone mold and you uncured silicone won't stick (permanently) to it. It's highly useful for two part molds.
I expect that a pressure pot or vac chamber would be extremely useful for trying this- especially if you're trying to replicate a tread pattern.
Veyron
02-15-2008, 02:38 PM
hirofkd
02-15-2008, 03:04 PM
Casting rubber is certainly available. I used a sample more than a decade ago, and well, it turned out like an ordinary rubber part. I didn't like its curing time of more than 12 hours, and I also didn't have any need for it back then, so I didn't continue using it.
Now that I need the correct tires for some of my F430 and BB projects, I should try those casting rubber products. FYI, MicroMark also sells 2LB casting rubber (TCR-40 Tire Casting Rubber) with black pigment for $28.25 and $7.15 respectively.
Another solution is to make a solid part with putty or resin, and coat it with spray rubber. The problem is that the spray will most likely fill details, so it's only good for slick tires.
Now that I need the correct tires for some of my F430 and BB projects, I should try those casting rubber products. FYI, MicroMark also sells 2LB casting rubber (TCR-40 Tire Casting Rubber) with black pigment for $28.25 and $7.15 respectively.
Another solution is to make a solid part with putty or resin, and coat it with spray rubber. The problem is that the spray will most likely fill details, so it's only good for slick tires.
mikemechanic
02-15-2008, 09:42 PM
Klutz, I found this thread to be very helpful (since Ray didn't come in and tell you to search, I will) :)
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=677276&highlight=casting+tires
Mike
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=677276&highlight=casting+tires
Mike
Lownslow
02-15-2008, 10:15 PM
Casting rubber is certainly available. I used a sample more than a decade ago, and well, it turned out like an ordinary rubber part. I didn't like its curing time of more than 12 hours, and I also didn't have any need for it back then, so I didn't continue using it.
Now that I need the correct tires for some of my F430 and BB projects, I should try those casting rubber products. FYI, MicroMark also sells 2LB casting rubber (TCR-40 Tire Casting Rubber) with black pigment for $28.25 and $7.15 respectively.
Another solution is to make a solid part with putty or resin, and coat it with spray rubber. The problem is that the spray will most likely fill details, so it's only good for slick tires.
yeah i found something that dries in about 4 hours but the tires are harder(shore 45) about as hard as a 1987 grand national revell tire they have very little give so theyre not good if the wheel is 1mm bigger than the tire, the other stuff youre talking about is reo flex 50 and yeah 18 hours drying time isnt worth it for a set of tires the micro mark stuff took all day and the humidity has to be 0 or else they come out sticky
this is 45d with black dye
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c330/Lownslow302/chiki001.jpg
Now that I need the correct tires for some of my F430 and BB projects, I should try those casting rubber products. FYI, MicroMark also sells 2LB casting rubber (TCR-40 Tire Casting Rubber) with black pigment for $28.25 and $7.15 respectively.
Another solution is to make a solid part with putty or resin, and coat it with spray rubber. The problem is that the spray will most likely fill details, so it's only good for slick tires.
yeah i found something that dries in about 4 hours but the tires are harder(shore 45) about as hard as a 1987 grand national revell tire they have very little give so theyre not good if the wheel is 1mm bigger than the tire, the other stuff youre talking about is reo flex 50 and yeah 18 hours drying time isnt worth it for a set of tires the micro mark stuff took all day and the humidity has to be 0 or else they come out sticky
this is 45d with black dye
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c330/Lownslow302/chiki001.jpg
lotus123
02-16-2008, 01:48 AM
Gerald Wingrove has a couple of tips (and you could do worse than to follow his advice!) on his website (http://www.wworkshop.net/index.html) under "questions/wheels".
Two important points are:
1. Before pouring the rubber into the mould, first paint a coating of liquid rubber in the mould, to reduce the likelihood of bubbles spoiling the finish.
2. Tint the white rubber with black pigment AND blue pigment for a more natural look. Pure black is just too black.
Graham
Two important points are:
1. Before pouring the rubber into the mould, first paint a coating of liquid rubber in the mould, to reduce the likelihood of bubbles spoiling the finish.
2. Tint the white rubber with black pigment AND blue pigment for a more natural look. Pure black is just too black.
Graham
klutz_100
02-16-2008, 03:20 PM
Thanks gents :thumbsup:
Thanks Graham for reminding me about the Wingrove site - I had forgotten how awesome his work is.
Thanks Mike for pointing me in the direction of that thread - obviously my memory is going with old age! :uhoh: :lol:
Thanks Graham for reminding me about the Wingrove site - I had forgotten how awesome his work is.
Thanks Mike for pointing me in the direction of that thread - obviously my memory is going with old age! :uhoh: :lol:
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