2003 Durango - Starting problems.

My truck has been having trouble starting for a few months now and it finally just quit working.



Problem:Slow click when key is turned to start vehicle.


Progression of my problem in order:

For a few months when I would start the truck it didn't start immediately, rather it would sound like it was turning over a couple times, then start.
This progressed to even longer starting time. Even more turns before it would catch and eventually start after 5-10 seconds.
Then came the click. It would turn a few times, then click. but if I continued to try starting, it would eventually start.
The click started coming more often and more than one click at a time. (a slow click)
All of a sudden, after about a week of the slow click, I attempted to start the truck and it started making a very fast click and no turn-over of the engine.The people that I talked to regarding this stated that it must be the starter. So I went and bought a new starter and installed it myself. Now that the new starter is in, when I turn the key it has reverted back to the slow click!:banghead:

I am now thinking it is either a dead battery or a broken relay???:confused:
I'm not sure if it could be the alternator?:confused:

Other information:
-I did have a 250W amplifier hooked up to the system but unhooked it about a week after the starting problems occured.
-Previously when I did have the stereo system blaring, the lights inside the vehicle would dim when a heavy bass line would hit. Even the headlights would dim a very little bit, but noticeable. (before the starting problems)
-I do have an aftermarket battery terminal on the + side of the battery. (not sure if that matters, but trying to give all info)
-I've already checked the fuse to the starter and it is good.
-2003 Dodge Durango, 4x4, 4.7L Magnum V8

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EDIT (here is a email conversation I was having with a coworker who is really into cars) can anyone confirm this information??
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ME-
Hey man, I just posted this on automotiveforum.com. I was just wondering if you would read it and see if you still think it’s the battery??

HIM-

I think so. There’s an easy way to check. Get a jump and see if it starts normally. If not, try the battery terminals (clean and tighten). If a jumpstart still doesn’t help, replace battery. If it works for a few days then starts having problems again, replace alternator. Problem solved.

ME-
When I get a jump, it does start normally. This rules out the battery?? should I take the battery and have it tested at schucks still?
I got a jump several times and it did exactly that… it would run for a couple days then die again.
I guess that means the problem is in the alternator…

Just wanted to give this info also, when I get a jump now, which I did last night. It doesn’t keep a charge at all… as soon as I shut the truck off it won’t start without another jump. Not sure if it changes anything but… who knows? You’re the expert!!

HIM-
How long was it running before you shut it off?

ME-
Hmm… about 15-20 minutes.

HIM-
It’s starting to sound like the alternator.


Pull up a chair son…

When you get a jump, you have enough power to start the truck. The alternator should then start charging the battery so you can start it again AND running all of the accessories. If the alternator is wackadocious then the weak battery will keep the truck running all by itself (spark plugs, radio, lights, etc.) until the battery completely dies and the truck stalls out. Then you can’t start it again without another jump.

I seriously doubt it is the alternator.The alternator is what kept it running for the 15-20 minutes.You or your buddy said-
When you get a jump, you have enough power to start the truck. The alternator should then start charging the battery so you can start it again AND running all of the accessories. If the alternator is wackadocious then the weak battery will keep the truck running all by itself (spark plugs, radio, lights, etc.) until the battery completely dies and the truck stalls out. Then you can’t start it again without another jump-that is completely wrong.A weak battery that cannot start an engine is not going to have enough voltage to keep it running.The PCM needs 12-14 volts to operate and the alternator is what provides that.If the alternator is not charging,the engine will die almost as soon as you take the jumper cables off.When it was running was the battery light on?I would guess probably not,if it was then the alternator might not be charging,but seriously,I think you need a battery.

Thanks for the response xj31!:smile:
So I got a jump start and drove my truck to Schucks. I had them do the battery/alternator test on it. He said that it is charging at a normal rate but there was some kind of error message saying "excess ripples".
The guy didn't know what it meant and asked another guy there, he mentioned something about the diodes in the alternator leaking power back??

So I did a little bit of "google investigating" and came up with this from some website.

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Typically, the motor receives its power from a one hundred twenty volt alternating current (AC) receptacle, which causes the alternator to output about five to ten amperes (amps) of AC current, rather than an approximate one hundred amps of AC current that the alternator would output if the alternator was operating at full capacity within a motor vehicle.

An alternator contains three coils, and each of the three coils generates an AC voltage. A pair of diodes are coupled to the AC voltage output of each coil. The diodes allow current to flow in one direction and prevent a battery from discharging by stopping the flow of current to ground. The diodes also convert the AC voltage to direct current (DC) voltage. Notwithstanding the use of the diodes, a slight amount of ripple voltage usually remains.

If the diodes are defective, the amount of ripple voltage that manifests at the terminal of the alternator, which would be connected to a battery of a motor vehicle, significantly increases. During testing, therefore the alternator will generate a low output current of the order of five to fifteen amps, which is still well below the alternator's full capacity current output. Thus, the amount of ripple voltage, when occurring, will also be relatively small.
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and also this from a toyota forum...

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It means the rectifier in the alternator is not properly changing the AC to DC.
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I am really confused with all the rectifier and diode talk... but basically it sounds to me like I need a new alternator.

I have this gut feeling that I will be replacing both the alternator and battery... my luck has been horrible lately. Normally I would replace both for good measure but I am flat broke right now. So I returned my HD DVD player to get some money.. :crying:

Some other important information that may help diagnostics:
After I got the jump start I had the truck running for about 15 minutes while I got my DVD player ready to take back. I drove to Schucks to get the test done, leaving the truck running. I then drove to Fry's to return my DVD player and left my truck running in the parking lot for about 30 minutes. Then I drove to Wal-Mart to return some more stuff, leaving the truck running again for about 20 minutes. After all of this, there was no battery light on in the console/dash... and the current meter on the console/dash was staying in the middle as it does when the truck is running normally. As soon as I got home and turned off the truck, I waited about 10 seconds and attempted to fire it up again... it sounded like it was about to fire, then the clicking sound came and it was a "no-go". I also noticed that when I turn the key to accessory the current meter was almost ALL the way down.
So the truck ran fine as long as I didn't turn it off, for about an hour and a half or two hours.

Hope that helps someone help me!!!

But before I go and just buy either the alternator or the battery I would like to wait and see if anyone responds to this tonight or tomorrow with some more info for me.

It is the battery. The battery has one or two dead cells. You might also have a weak alternator. Usually your local autoparts store will do a free test of both the battery and alternator. The test is pretty reliable, because it tests your alternator under true load conditions and puts a heavy load on your battery to see if it has any dead cells.

You don't want to replace the battery alone if the alternator is failing, otherwise the new battery will fail in a few months.

That's your best option get them tested and replace one or both if they fail the test.

BTW - if you do wind up replacing the alternator, you should consider the next higher amperage alternator if there is one available. It is possible that your alternator is overtaxed by your stereo system.

Ok, So here is my Plan of Action:

Buy new battery
Install new battery
Have test done at Schucks again
If alternator = bad; then replace alternator (when I get some more money)
Party!!Any other ideas??

Also check both ends of the battery cables and alternator cable for corrosion / loose connections.
Don't forget to check the ground cable where it makes contact with the engine block or chassis.

I will do that... thank you for your advice. :smile:

Ok, So here is my Plan of Action:

Buy new battery
Install new battery
Have test done at Schucks again
If alternator = bad; then replace alternator (when I get some more money)
Party!!Any other ideas??
That sounds like a plan.