Clear Coat - Which to buy?

Alright people,

So i have check with search and really could not find what i was looking for. I have been using the tamiya clearcoat and find that 4 coats works nice 3 coats on the paint then i apply the decals and then one light coat over the everything. However i have found that the TS Can really waste alot with overspray and i am blowing through the product.

Is there something better out there to use? I have heard 'Krylon" refered.. is this a better product? or any other sugestions?

I decant Tamiya clear and run it through the airbrush. Saves a ton of paint, I can clearcoat 3-4 models this way. Far less waste.

Aww - I did not even think to decant it :( I am a dumbass :D

Do you thin it out anymore once decanted?

I add a few drops of Tamiya lacquer thinner, or Mr. Hobby/Gunze Mr. Color Thinner. Your setup may or may not require thinner.

Im starting to use Duplicolors Paint Shop clear coat. Its an automotive lacquer clear coat. Its sold in a 1 quart can, thats pre thinned, and ready to spray. A can is about 20 dollars, and I think could easily do 2 dozen bodies if you dont waste a lot of it. Ive only partially cleared one body w/ it, and where it went down, it looks pretty good. Could use some polishing to make it look better, but w/o any work it looks good.

I add about 10-20% hardware store lacquer thinner to decanted Tamiya TS-13. Works great.

Ddms

Im starting to use Duplicolors Paint Shop clear coat. Its an automotive lacquer clear coat. Its sold in a 1 quart can, thats pre thinned, and ready to spray. A can is about 20 dollars, and I think could easily do 2 dozen bodies if you dont waste a lot of it. Ive only partially cleared one body w/ it, and where it went down, it looks pretty good. Could use some polishing to make it look better, but w/o any work it looks good.

I almost bought that stuff yesterday. What base coat did you use? Any reactions with the plastic? I'm guessing it's similar to their cans? I'm thinking about picking up the primer as well. Can't imagine how many parts you would primer with a quart!

The one body Ive cleared so far, went down over Tamiya Mica Blue, and had no problems what so ever that I coudl find. The body was cleared about 3 months ago.

i use Mr Gunze Gloss Coat and its works out great without even decanting.

Ro

When I tried ab-ing TS13 it tended to lay down a bit dry. I had to really blast it through the air brush, and my gravity feed emptied out in seconds. I guess my brush is not ideal for this type of work. It definitely saves *heaps* on paint and odor though, the overspray from the can is pretty bad. I think it would be a bit easier to use lacquer out of a bottle if you don't insist on TS13, but it gives a great finish imho.

Well i went to the Hobby store today to get some clearcoat and they where out of the TS sprays however had some of the X-22 clear in the little paint jars. Now would i assume this is the same as there other paints a 50/50 mix?

When I tried ab-ing TS13 it tended to lay down a bit dry. I had to really blast it through the air brush, and my gravity feed emptied out in seconds. I guess my brush is not ideal for this type of work.

I doubt it's your airbrush. Decanted TS13 is too thick for airbrushing. If you thin it, it will spray nicely and dry to a beautiful gloss that requires little or no polishing.

Ddms

Hey Michael.

X22 should definately be mixed 50/50, or maybe even 40/60 (with 60 being thinner X20A).
I did coat one model with X22 but haven't been too happy with it. A very slight hint of orange peel in the clear. Don't know whether I didn't thin it enough or if I should've used a higher pressure (I used just over 1 bar when spraying).

Guess you'll find out soon... I'm interested in your results.
Keep us posted !

I doubt it's your airbrush. Decanted TS13 is too thick for airbrushing. If you thin it, it will spray nicely and dry to a beautiful gloss that requires little or no polishing.

Ddms
Ok, yeh, that sounds right. I do have the fine tip in my ab though, and I know many here are using medium. I'm used to it though, reluctant to change, but constantly wondering if I should. I agree that the TS13 ab's to a really beautiful finish when you get down a good layer.

I just started to use Mr Gunze Gloss Coat and the semi and flat clears. I sprayed some parts the other week and really like it. I will be using it some more hare in the coming week and I am going to come pair it to TS-13. I used X-22 om small parts I am not sure it I would use it on a body though I like the look a lacquer gives you over the acrylic clear.

My opinion (and it is just my opinion) I am sure some will disagree,is X22 is no good for clearing bodies.I know some people have used it for this task and had superb results,in fact I have seen some on this very forum.Me personally,I tried it and just couldn't get on with it.It never quite sprayed the way I wanted it to no matter how I tried.I much prefer Zero clears both 1K and 2K,Mr Top Coat sprays or even Tamiya TS-13 at a pinch,but be careful with the TS-13 because it can melt the decals when applied too heavily,too quickly.