Lots of problems with my 2000'.

It actually belongs to the woman who raised me, i have to get this thing fixed for her.. she's spent long enough living with some of these problems.

The van runs well overall.. just fixed a starting/idling problem and a charging problem (corroded battery cables) but there's a bit more to be done. It idles well, has good power, etc. Has about 115,000 miles on it

1. The window motor on the driver's side doesn't work most of the time. It's like it overheats, it will run for 5 seconds and progressively get slower until it stops working, the longer you wait before trying it the longer it will run (it's predictable in the amount of time), I assumed this is just a bad window motor but I want to make sure before buying one. Plus I hate taking off door panels in general, I doubt the ones in this van are easier than any other vehicle.

2. The blower on "high" fan speed doesn't work.. the lower speeds stopped working as well but I was able to figure out that problem (vacuum line crumbling, even though it looked unweathered)

3. I'm not so sure about this one.. the fuel pump runs every single time you start the van, is this normal? you have to lay on the ignition for a split second longer if you don't let it run first. My sister's Chrysler and my Mercury hold fuel pressure for much longer. It might not be an issue and might be with the engine's design? hopefully

4. There is an odd whistling under the hood, it gets louder when the throttle is opened up more. It's close to a whine like a bad transmission but is definitely coming from the engine area, I can't locate it. Again, I just don't know if it's normal.. it sounds like a vacuum or intake leak but the fan runs perfect.

5. It doesn't warm up, it never gets above 150F or so.. I don't think I have ever seen this van reach 200F or centerline on the temp gauge. The fan clutch isn't locked up (though it takes a few minutes to kick off after starting), is this a stuck open thermostat or do these engines just run really cool?
After idling for 20mins the valve covers were JUSt warm to the touch.

edit: and I appreciate any help I can get..

1. Replace the window regulator motor, clean and lubricate the regulator mechanism, and silicone the guide channels. Removing the inner door panels is easier than you might imagine on these vehicles:

http://72.19.213.157/files/MBodyWindowRegulatorMotor.jpg

2. Consider checking the blower high speed relay. The relay is part of the blower speed control, located on the front of the evaporator core case. It is most easily accessed by removing the windshield washer and coolant overflow reservoirs.

3. The Delco scheme for operating the electric fuel pump on EFI engine is to run the pump for a two-second prime cycle when the ignition is turned on. As long as the ignition has been off for 20 seconds or more, the pump should run this cycle every time the ignition is turned on. The pump should also run whenever the PCM is receiving ignition reference pulses, and for two seconds afterward. The fuel pump also receives power through a redundant circuit via the oil pressure switch. Whenever the engine oil pressure is above 7 PSIG, the pump should run. This is why the pump will frequently run for several seconds after the engine is shut off. That is all completely normal.

4. I'd suspect the throttle body is coated with varnish, and may also be sticking slightly in the closed position. Removal of the interior engine cover and intake air horn will expose the throttle plate. Clean the throttle plate and its bore with a spray type carburetor cleaner.

5. The engine temperature should eventually reach 200ºF. The factory fan clutch is fairly robust, and errs on the side of cooling. If the thermostat is leaking or sticking open, the clutch fan will actually act as a thermostat of sorts, albeit at a lower temperature.

On the whistling, it happens regardless of throttle position.. it gets louder the more the throttle is open. I cleaned it a bit today but couldn't get in there to scrub it, though I have to be honest it's one of the cleanest throttle bodies I've ever seen (comparing to vehicles with 50k on them).. I'm really impressed with the van's air intake system. The air intake hose was perfectly clean, I scrubbed it with throttle body cleaner and the fluid ran clear even after a good scrubbing.



It has been cold here lately but even on a warmer day (45F) it never really warms up. My sister's caravan gets to 192F in about 3 minutes, though it is pure electric cooling.

The clutch does push at bit of air when not engaged but I assume it's like the clutch on my truck that runs at 30% speed when not engaged?

You know, now that I think about it, she had a screwy mechanic do work on the van and he changed the thermostat because the heat didn't work (the blower wouldn't kick on, told you he was screwy), I wonder if he put one in that was stuck open.

Thanks with the rest of the stuff, can't wait to have this van running in top shape for her!

If the thermostat was replaced, it might have a 'stat with less than a 185º F rating. That might explain a lot. If you start the engine cold, feel the upper radiator hose to see if warm coolant starts to flow before the temperature is registering on the dash gauge. Also remember that the dash gauges are not precision instruments, just indicators.

The clutch fan will move a lot of air when the engine is cold and the fluid hub has very viscous oil in it. Until the fan turns for a while and the oil shears a bit, it will be almost like a direct drive fan.

If the whistling is at all throttle angles, take a close look at the vacuum "T" fitting on the left side of the plastic upper intake. The seal on that fitting may be a problem. The fitting is a bayonet mount (quarter-turn to release) and uses an 'O' ring to seal to the bore in the intake. You might also check the TB mounting screws, and PCV hose and valve.

1. The window motor on the driver's side doesn't work most of the time. It's like it overheats, it will run for 5 seconds and progressively get slower until it stops working, the longer you wait before trying it the longer it will run (it's predictable in the amount of time), I assumed this is just a bad window motor but I want to make sure before buying one. Plus I hate taking off door panels in general, I doubt the ones in this van are easier than any other vehicle.



The drivers window has the "express down" feature. There's a circuit breaker built into the drivers window switch, and from your symptoms, it's working properly. When amperage draw increases, like when the window is all the way down, the circuit breaker pops and shuts off current flow to the motor. Anything that causes amperage to increase beyond the breakers limit will pop the breaker. This could include the motor, binding window regulator, glass binding in the tracks, and poor electrical connections. Like Blue Bowtie mentioned, clean and lubricate everything, you might want to check the cheap, easy stuff before replacing the motor.

If the thermostat was replaced, it might have a 'stat with less than a 185º F rating. That might explain a lot. If you start the engine cold, feel the upper radiator hose to see if warm coolant starts to flow before the temperature is registering on the dash gauge. Also remember that the dash gauges are not precision instruments, just indicators.

The clutch fan will move a lot of air when the engine is cold and the fluid hub has very viscous oil in it. Until the fan turns for a while and the oil shears a bit, it will be almost like a direct drive fan.

If the whistling is at all throttle angles, take a close look at the vacuum "T" fitting on the left side of the plastic upper intake. The seal on that fitting may be a problem. The fitting is a bayonet mount (quarter-turn to release) and uses an 'O' ring to seal to the bore in the intake. You might also check the TB mounting screws, and PCV hose and valve.

Ok, I'll check it out.. would get out there today but it's like 5F with 20mph wind (may be a bit of an exaggeration, heh)..

The drivers window has the "express down" feature. There's a circuit breaker built into the drivers window switch, and from your symptoms, it's working properly. When amperage draw increases, like when the window is all the way down, the circuit breaker pops and shuts off current flow to the motor. Anything that causes amperage to increase beyond the breakers limit will pop the breaker. This could include the motor, binding window regulator, glass binding in the tracks, and poor electrical connections. Like Blue Bowtie mentioned, clean and lubricate everything, you might want to check the cheap, easy stuff before replacing the motor.

Sounds good, the motor IS working somewhat so maybe it is just a bit of resistance somewhere. I'll take the door panel off and see what it looks like, check the wiring, etc..

Thanks all