94 caprice dieing while driving

My 94 Caprice seems to have a power loss and dies at times. While driving in town ( I live in a small rural ND town) it will die upon stepping on the brakes. If it does not die it will "dip" in power - the dash lights and gauges will all drop briefly. When it does die, it will start right up and go again. It makes no difference if the car has been running for some time or was just started.

Anyone have any ideas? I appreciate any help I can get! Thank You!

My 94 Caprice seems to have a power loss and dies at times. While driving in town ( I live in a small rural ND town) it will die upon stepping on the brakes. If it does not die it will "dip" in power - the dash lights and gauges will all drop briefly. When it does die, it will start right up and go again. It makes no difference if the car has been running for some time or was just started.

Anyone have any ideas? I appreciate any help I can get! Thank You!

sounds like fuel pressure is dropping. get this checked. also fuel filter replace if over 30.000mi. if these check out ok then vacuum leaks [PCV hoses] vacuum 20in with guage. then if this is good remove idle air bypass and clean if it looks very carboned may need throttle body cleaned small passage ways build up carbon........in any case if you do all this it will run alot better ..........these problems will usually not throw a code i assume no codes here.......there is the possibility that the brake booster is leaking with vacuum gauge connected to engine step on brake if it drops significantly and you pedal is gradually getting harder this is also a cause.

Thank you for the ideas - I'll do some more checking when I get a chance - or the temps get above 0 - whichever comes first! :)

Oh my god, this was the problem my Caprice had when I first bought it. It would do it when in Park. That was when my caprice was undrivable. It went away by itself though.

Thing is, when I had the LT1 swap, my hesitation went away.. But come to think of it, the fuel filter and line was replaced too, because it looked "bad".

Perhaps THAT was the problem on my hesitation all along. When you mentioned that "power drop in dash", it dawned on me.. My dome light flickered too.. (it was dark outside when this happened to me)

Does it happen after driving 35mph or more? I'm wondering if the tcc solenoid isn't disengaging. It's supposed to when applying the brakes. After the vehicle stalls it will drive fine again after start up until it engages and won't disengage again when trying to stop. The gauges on your dash will flutter, flicker or whatever because of the drop in rpm's and your voltage dropping as well. Easy check; unplug the wiring harness going into the trans above the shift lever linkage. It will be a square 4 prong plug. Drive the car around and see if it still acts up. By unplugging the wiring harness, your disabling the tcc solenoid from locking up.

Did you get it figured out?

Well, here is where it is at now. I had a friend come and take a look and we discovered a mess up by the underhood fusebox. For some unknown reason, the plastic covering on the side melted and I'm not certain as to why or how the stud got broken off, but it did. The battery connects up there so because of this mess the cable was not making connection. So, we kind of patched it and the car seemed to run fine.

I ordered the side connector and got it yesterday. Now I've run into the trouble of changing that! The side connector slides up on the side, however I cannot for the life of me get the old one off and even if I cut it off or whatever, I still wouldn't be able to get the new one on as there are these two rectangular pieces that connect to the underside of the fusebox and come out to that connector in which 2 wires are held on there. I need to remove those rectangular pieces in order to make this happen.

Well, here is where it is at now. I had a friend come and take a look and we discovered a mess up by the underhood fusebox. For some unknown reason, the plastic covering on the side melted and I'm not certain as to why or how the stud got broken off, but it did. The battery connects up there so because of this mess the cable was not making connection. So, we kind of patched it and the car seemed to run fine.

I ordered the side connector and got it yesterday. Now I've run into the trouble of changing that! The side connector slides up on the side, however I cannot for the life of me get the old one off and even if I cut it off or whatever, I still wouldn't be able to get the new one on as there are these two rectangular pieces that connect to the underside of the fusebox and come out to that connector in which 2 wires are held on there. I need to remove those rectangular pieces in order to make this happen.


ON my vehicle 96 that was a problem to address as this terminal block next to the under hood fuse panel was not tightened at factory correctly....when you tighten hold body of connector then tighten nut... remove battery ground first for saftey......



on the install of the replacement part the use of a heat gun to soften the plastic to aid in the removal of the old melted part....then use a silicone rubber sealant to repair any fuse box panel damage.......

I have a 94 that will do the same thing. Mine, however, only does it as you are slowing down (as though to slow as checking traffic when pulling out of a business) and if you hit the gas it will stall. however, if you put it in nuetral, it will catch itself up and then you put in drive and away you go.

I have a 94 that will do the same thing. Mine, however, only does it as you are slowing down (as though to slow as checking traffic when pulling out of a business) and if you hit the gas it will stall. however, if you put it in nuetral, it will catch itself up and then you put in drive and away you go.

you should start new posting with your problem...also check vehicle grounds and other connections...

sorry j cAT... wasn't asking for a diagnosis... just comparing to original problem as started in beginning of thread and making conversation.