Fuel Level Sending Unit

Hi, all! I recently bought a 1997 Grand Prix GTP and have found a lot of useful information on this site. My fuel gauge is not working. It most often reads above the full level, but also fluctuates anywhere between there and about 1/4 tank. I think it's the level sending unit. Is it possible to pull the fuel pump up through the opening in the trunk and just replace the sending unit? Or do I have to replace the entire pump? Thanks!

Welcome to AF.

You can replace just the fuel level sending unit and float without replacing the complete fuel pump pod. See pic below. Part with the float. AC Delco has a fuel level sending unit kit. Cost varies but you can get it for around $85.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fuelsender.jpg

Thanks! Do you know if I can just pull the pump through the opening in the trunk, or do I have to drop the fuel tank? Also, does the sending unit just screw or snap on? I can't quite tell from the picture.

Via the opening in the trunk behind the rear passenger seat. Easier if you have the rear passenger seat pass through door.

We have a thread posted at our Tips & Maintenance forum that should guide you. The unit sort of snaps in. I recall there is a fork shaped plastic retainer.

See link below.

Click here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=739278)

Bob, can you recommend where to purchase just the sending unit? Not to hijack this thread but eventually I want to replace my sending unit and when I do, I want to make sure it's a A/C delco part. Thanks.

Bob, can you recommend where to purchase just the sending unit?

No problem Paul. Check your PM messages. Incidentally. I'm ordering some new AC Delco hubs through them today.

Thanks again, Bob. I saw the pump install thread the other day, just wanted to make sure I would not end up getting myself in touble pulling the pump to change the sending unit. Could you possibly tell me where to buy the unit too? Any reason why you like AC Delco?

Great information. I too have the fuel guage issue and did not want to spend $$$ for the guage to work. I looked on a few sites today but can not find just the Level Sending Unit. Any suggestions where you would look?
Thanks!!

You're all welcome. Send me a PM message and I'll provide my GM/AC Delco parts source.

I also am needing the sending unit. Could you please send me the info on it.

Thanks,
Jeff

I also am needing the sending unit. Could you please send me the info on it.

Thanks,
Jeff

No problem. Check your PM messaging.

Great tips here guys. I just received my replacement fuel sending unit. Can anyone tell me what tools I need to get this job done smoothly? Also does anyone know how to program a replacement remote key fob? I looked it up on google but I can't get the remote to synchronize so maybe I'm doing it wrong.

Great tips here guys. I just received my replacement fuel sending unit. Can anyone tell me what tools I need to get this job done smoothly? Also does anyone know how to program a replacement remote key fob? I looked it up on google but I can't get the remote to synchronize so maybe I'm doing it wrong.


Welcome to AF and the forum.

No special tools are needed just common. You could use snap ring pliers on the big c-clip that holds the fuel pump pod on to the gas tank but not necessary.


For RKE:

Transmitter Programming
No Tools Required
In the event that a transmitter is lost, program the old and the new transmitters into the memory of the remote control door lock receiver. Up to 4 transmitters may be programmed.


Important
Once the keyless entry receiver enters the programming/diagnostic mode, the programming of the first transmitter erases all previous transmitter programming information. You must then program all of the transmitters.

Program only 1 vehicle remote control door lock receiver at a time. If you program multiple receivers simultaneously, the same transmitter could possibly be programmed to more than 1 remote control door lock receiver.


Perform the following steps:

Sit in the vehicle driver's seat.
Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
Close all of the vehicle's doors.
Remove the MALL PGM fuse from the fuse panel. Refer to Electronic Diagnosis in Body and Chassis.
Turn the ignition lock cylinder to the ACC position.
Turn the ignition lock cylinder OFF, then back to ACC within 1 second.
Open and then close any vehicle door. You will hear a chime when the remote control door lock receiver enters the programming/diagnostic mode. If you do not hear a chime, start again at step 1.

Important
After 7 seconds, you may hear a chime confirming successful synchronization. After approximately 14 seconds, you will hear a chime confirming successful programming.


Press and hold the transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously for 14 seconds.
Repeat step 8 in order to program each additional transmitter.
Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
Install the MALL PGM fuse back into the fuse panel. Refer to Electrical Diagnosis in Body and Chassis.
Validate that all the transmitters that were programmed operate properly. Refer to Keyless Entry System Operation .

2000 Pontiac Grand Prix

Thanks. I plan to do this tomorrow, would you have a step by step procedure handy? Also thanks for the info on programming the remote, I have the same procedure but I don't get the chime when it synchronizes.
Could I have a bad remote and how can I test it? (I just replaced the battery)

The closest thing we have is on the fuel pump assembly posted at our Tips & Maintenance forum. Doing the level sending unit part isn't that difficult just take your time. See link below.

Click here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=739278)

How many remotes do you have? What are the numbers on the back of the keyfob?

Thanks. I'll take it slow.

As for the keyfob THE FCC ID # IS ABO0204T . GM PART 10246215 , CANADA # 218101487 New battery installed.

How can I test this without buying another remote??

As for the keyfob THE FCC ID # IS ABO0204T . GM PART 10246215 , CANADA # 218101487 New battery installed.

How can I test this without buying another remote??

The remote appears to be correct. Good question. On another similar year GP. Any '97-'00 as long as it is the 4 button remote.

Do you have an Autozone nearby? Most have an Everready battery point of sale display with a remote tester. Don't know how good the test is or what it will prove but it at least checks to see if the remote is transmitting some signal.

Thanks. There is an AutoZone down the street. I'll take it there and see if they have the display or can assist. Thanks!!!

Hello All,

Well, thanks to all the great info and tips here at AF, I got my fuel sending unit replaced today. I was a bit hesitant but went ahead slowly and did it step by step. I removed the rear seat, disconnected the battery, removed the fuel pump cover and after cleaing up the pump finally got it out and replaced the bad fuel sending unit. I put everything back together, checked all the connections and then reconnected the battery and fired up the car to check for leaks. I did not see any leaks on the top of the pump or under the car so I assume I got the O-ring seated properly. (I did not have to lubricate the ring, once I got it centered and pushed straight down it seated itself.)
I'll keep an eye on it for a few days and see how it goes.

Thanks to all! I'll definitely be back to tackle more projects.

The remote appears to be correct. Good question. On another similar year GP. Any '97-'00 as long as it is the 4 button remote.

Do you have an Autozone nearby? Most have an Everready battery point of sale display with a remote tester. Don't know how good the test is or what it will prove but it at least checks to see if the remote is transmitting some signal.


Ok, I took it to my local Auto Zone and tested it on the EverReady display. It responds on all the buttons in the RF so that must mean the remote is good.
Here's what I am doing. Sitting in the drivers seat with the MALL PGM fuse removed and all doors closed, I insert the key and turn it to ACC (there is 2 chimes) then back to off, then back to ACC (within 1 sec). I open the drivers door (2 chimes) and close it (2 chimes). Holding the Lock+Unlock buttons does nothing after 14 secs. Am I doing it wrong? BTW, I assume ACC on the key cylinder is down (the labels are faded off on the column).
Help!!