threw some codes

Hello, i just bought a 2006 1500 with 17,000 miles and its giving me some engine troubles once in a while it will ideal ruff. well i changed sparkplugs didnt fix it. hooked it up to the computer and it said engine missfireing on 2,5,7 randomly. so i changed mass airflows. i also changed the coil packs on 2,5,7 seemed to come out of the ruff idealing. well the engine light stayed on! hooked the computer up and got theses codes. P0327, p0332.
any help would be apperciated

Don't Know If This Would Help Any Or Not..Or if you possibly know all this already, but I found this info off of alldata.com. Basically it says that the P0327 refers to the front knock sensor and the PO332 refers to the rear knock sensor. Possibly it could just be a wiring issue or possibly just replacing the knock sensors. I have the step by step testing information too if you would like that..it's pretty lengthy..hope this helps some

P0332/PO327
If DTCs P0327 and P0332 are set at the same time, inspect for poor connections at the KS harness jumper, located at the left rear side of the intake manifold.
Inspect the KS for physical damage. A KS that is dropped or damaged may cause a DTC to set.
Inspect the KS for proper installation. A KS that is loose or over torqued may cause a DTC to set. The KS should be free of thread sealant. The KS mounting surface should be free of burrs, casting flash, and foreign material.
For an intermittent condition, refer to Intermittent Conditions.

thank you for your response if you wouldnt mind posting how to test them just in case.

engine sze would help. seen alot of the 5.3's with the rear knock sensor getting corroded due to water. this can also cause the pigtail to get fouled, and can set codes for both sensors. there is a trick you can do with some silicone to prevent future problems like that. if that turns out to be the case, or you just wanna replace them, then let me know and i"ll do a write up. is easy, takes a little time, but not too much.

sorry its a 5.3, if you wouldnt mind doing the right up? or how i can check if they are bad? will it hurt the motor any if i dont get them fixed before a 2,000 mile trip?

only if the engine produces alot of spark knock....and you never know when that will occur. will post write up shortly/ if only one is bad, replace both and pigtail anyway...no sense in doing job twice, sensors are fairly cheap. for the record, every time i have seen these codes i have removed the intake to find the rear sensor corroded and fouled. but i am not always right about everything. not exactly sure the "correct" way to test them on an OBDII engine, but old school way is with a hammer and a multi meter. a good scan tool that can read the live data would be good. sensors ground into block, and wire is signal sent to PCM. unlug sensor connector(2 wire) on right rear of intake(as looking from front of vehicle). get meter and hook black to a ground and red to one of the wires in that connector that is still attached to the intake(female end). GENTLY tap front of motor with hammer(not on pulleys but on engine block) if you get any readings, it means the sensor is sending out a signal. next goto other wire in that 2 wire connector and repeat the gentle taps and monitor meter. if anyone has a better way for testing the sensors, please post it.

things you will need but NOT limited to:
intake gaskets(might as well, intake will be off anyway. some people re-use them, i don't)
2 knock sensors
one knock sensor pigtail
RTV silicone(permatex is good)
quick disconnect tool for fuel lines
dexcool(if throttle body is not removed from intake)
shop towels(ALOT)
various metric sockets and wrenches(i think the sensors need a 27mm socket but am brain farting on exact size)
haynes manual would be a good investment.

be sure to read fully before starting.

you will need a quick release tool for the fuel lines, and the rest is unplugging connections for sensors and injectors. if you feel you should, mark them, i never did as things seem to go back where they came from, main thing to mark might be the injectors. the fuel rail stays on the intake, just the electrical needs disconnecting. remove any covers on top of the intake holding the wiring harness down so you can get intake out from under it. after that, disconnect the evap line, and remove the throttle body(this makes removing the intake from engine alot easier, and the throttle body has coolant running through it) if you don't mind losing a little bit of coolant, then just unhook hoses and remember to top off when done. one thing to remember, when you unplug the knock sensor plug, on the right rear area of the intake, the plug that stays on the intake will need to be removed. it is held on there by a little clip that resembles a belt clip or somethig like that. once all electrical plugs and evap lines/vacuum lines are disconnected, loosen bolts and lift up on intake, and guide it out taking care not to bend/mangle that evap line. clean up mating surfaces on heads, trying not to let any of that dirt and crap go into the cylinders. this is where the shop towels really come in handy to cover.plug the ports. remove old sensors and install new ones. just before rear sensor(in between the 2), make a V shaped dam with the silicone to divert any water and whatever other liquid could ever go through there. make sure it is long enough to route the liquid AROUND the sensor. this is the only place you will need the silicone. re-assemble in reverse order, once again taking care ro re-route that pesky evap line the way it came off, and making sure not to mangle/bend it. and make sure the pigtail plug for the knock sensors is not under the intake(did that once). for the exact torque specs you will have to verify YOURSELF(not fully sure), but i think it is somewhere around 18 IN LBS. hope this helps, if have any questions, just ask.

oh, forgot to mention.......isn't that thing still under warranty? if so, will be fixed for free at the dealer.

Thank you for response... no it is not under warrenty.. i bought it salvaged theft stolen.. i found the problem some one or something cut or chewed there the pig tail wires so i soldiered them back to gether hope it fixes the problem

if it looks more like chewed than cut, would opt for the something category....freaking verments.

well after getting that fixed the engine ran great on the 2000 mile trip it jus went on to pick up a car... the only problem is the gas milage only got 11 going down with an EMPTY trailor and coming back with a loaded trailor i only got 11.. truck is a crew cab with a 4 or 6 inch lift with 285 for tires... the truck came from cali.. if that means anything..