Stupid Vibrations!!!

I have a 99' shortbed, regular cab, 2.2 4cyl vortec s-10. I have just replaced the clutch and slave, had helper springs installed, the shocks are less than 2 years old, wheel bearings are new and new tires. The problem is at various speeds but primarily above 65 miles per hour and I notice a squeaking noise when I hit small bumps in the road, sounds like its coming from the front driver side tire but I couldn't be positive. When I slow at a light its as if my truck is walking to the light under 10 mph. I have thoughts of ball joints going bad, u-joint, and tie rods. HELP!!!:banghead:

Sounds like a broken belt in a tire. Have your tire store take a look at them. Tell them you suspect a broken belt, don't just tell them it vibrates. Just because they're new, doesn't mean they're good.

fully agree with master. seen it sometimes on new tires. if you wanna check it yourself, raise and support front end, and spin the tires while looking at them. might be kinda hard to notice, but looknig closely will help. this will give you something to tell the guys at the tire shop so they won't just try to blow smoke up your tail pipe. if they mention something called force matching, agree to it as long as they understand that if it doesn't fix the problem, you will expect a new tire(s). don't discount the front end issues either, would be good to get that checked out too. 135K miles on my S-10 and it has the normal issues, and a couple others too.

Would it really be that because I was actually noticing this same vibration before the tires, this is the reason I replaced the old ones. I don't think that any of the suspension parts are bad because there isn't any funny wear in the tires. I guess I'll get the new tires checked out to be safe. The truck rides pretty smooth at 50-55mph everywhere else it sucks.

If you're feeling a "wobble" at 10MPH or less, as you described in your first post, check all 4 tires and wheels.

I'll get the wheels and tires checked this week but if its not the tires what would be the next thing to check?

Universal joints will squeek and vibrate when worn. Have them check both joints when they check the tires.

Thanks I think were on the same page now I'll get everything checked.

I checked to see what a u-joint replacement would cost at AAMCO and they quoted 250.00 is this right? I haven't checked the tires and wheels yet, just seeing if this was right on a u-joint replacment. My Ujoint is plastic injected.

Joints are typically under $20 each, flat rate labor is just under 2 hours. If their labor rate is $100.00 an hour, that could be about right.

does that 2.0 include the plastic infused junk and for all 3 joints?

An experienced tech should be able to R&I the driveshaft and replace both of the joints in under 2 hours, plastic or no plastic. Less than 2 hours if he uses both hands ;) (2 hours is generous)

Thanks, I appreciate all the help.

ok i use to work for bridgestone?firestone and had this problem come in MANY times with all year cars. u all have the right idea. ball joints if the front end feels like its jumping (up and down continuosly), tierod ends if the front end feels like its wobbleing (in and out continuosly). I never saw these symtomns come from the ujoint since if it was the rear end would be wobbling and jumping. also 1 major and verry simple thing has been left out. i know it sounds weird coming from a good shop but have all four wheel rebalance. .25 ounces off on the wheel will cause wobble and jumping and will come back with these problems. (i know this, ive had a few come back and the weights shifted very slightly and the front end was jumping/wobbling.) to check ball joints yours self will save u a major hassle. jack up the front end and support it on stands. lock the streeing wheel so u wont get a false diag. grab the 12 and 6 o'clock of the tire and push and pull on it like ur shaking it. if the wheel moves at ALL, ur ball joints are dying, major movement, replace them NOW. now tierods grab the3 and k9 o'clock and do the same thing. movement and ut tierods are dying, usually the outter but have someone do the tire shake and look at the tierods to know what rod needs R&R.

lets not forget the center link. on full sizw the pitman/idler arms go, on s-10's, the center link wears. also, inspect more if there is alot of the up and down movement when shaking tire. i know u said the wheel bearings are new, but may be loose.