Fuel pressure relief

Hello All second post ever.
I read this board all the time.
Lots of info,so little time.:ylsuper:
Anywhoos.
I have a simple question.
I have a 1996 Blazer LS 4.3 4 door 4x4.
I want to change the fuel filter.
I am ok with doing just about anything on my own.
But I get nervous when it comes to messing with the fuel system.
So I got out and look thru my Haynes manual for the fuel pressure relief procedure.
Locate the port
Attach Gauge bleed off
remove negative battery cable
system should be safe to service.
Per manual.

Ok I also read that I can do this with the tip of a screwdriver.
But does not say to remove the battery cable.
Do I remove the battery cable first or last?
And is there anything I should look out for that the "book" does not tell me ?
I am very "shade tree" .
I will plan and plan and something I did not expect always pops up.
Especially if it is somthing I have never tried before.
Bring back the old cars PLEASE.
All they needed was Fuel , Air and Fire.
Thanks all in advance for any advice.:sunglasse

Several ways you can bleed pressure off.
Pull fuse or fuel pump relay and run it or bleed at the pressure test fitting.
Helps.
But all of the fuel never drains out.
When the filter lines are removed some gas will run out.
Wear eye protection and keep flames or light way back from it.

And in the case of my Son in Law I remember him getting a ear full of gas when he tried to change one without removing pressure.
He wound up jumping into the swimming pool to cool it off.
MT

When you crack a line at the old filter pressure will be relieved, so I get the wrenches set and wrap a rag arround the fittings, It catches most of the gas that will flow back out of the line.
Dont lay your body right under the filter, stay off to one side.
When you get the old one off and are done with the job, try and blow through the old filter just to see if it is pluged. keep us posted

Disconnect your negative battery cable first.

Then find your relief fitting. It's called a Schraeder valve and it looks like a bicycle tire valve. Unscrew the cap. Put a rag over it. Press the valve with a screwdriver like you were letting the air out of your bicycle tire. The rag will catch any gas that comes out.

I'd still be careful and wrap a rag around the lines when you are removing your fuel filter. Just to be careful.





Hello All second post ever.
I read this board all the time.
Lots of info,so little time.:ylsuper:
Anywhoos.
I have a simple question.
I have a 1996 Blazer LS 4.3 4 door 4x4.
I want to change the fuel filter.
I am ok with doing just about anything on my own.
But I get nervous when it comes to messing with the fuel system.
So I got out and look thru my Haynes manual for the fuel pressure relief procedure.
Locate the port
Attach Gauge bleed off
remove negative battery cable
system should be safe to service.
Per manual.

Ok I also read that I can do this with the tip of a screwdriver.
But does not say to remove the battery cable.
Do I remove the battery cable first or last?
And is there anything I should look out for that the "book" does not tell me ?
I am very "shade tree" .
I will plan and plan and something I did not expect always pops up.
Especially if it is somthing I have never tried before.
Bring back the old cars PLEASE.
All they needed was Fuel , Air and Fire.
Thanks all in advance for any advice.:sunglasse

Ok . Thanks for the fast response guys.
Here is one of those ( sorta unforseen ) problems I was speaking of in the original post.
The fuel filter lines are stuck pretty good. No scaley rust.
But rusted to where I cannot break the filter free.
( I think it is the original filter) 142,000+ miles :grinno: !!!
I used PB blaster and letting it sit for a few minutes.
Any advice on how to get this broke free without F'n up the fuel lines or nuts.
I do not have alot of money to turn this minor maintainence into a major problem.

Ok . Thanks for the fast response guys.
Here is one of those ( sorta unforseen ) problems I was speaking of in the original post.
The fuel filter lines are stuck pretty good. No scaley rust.
But rusted to where I cannot break the filter free.
( I think it is the original filter) 142,000+ miles :grinno: !!!
I used PB blaster and letting it sit for a few minutes.
Any advice on how to get this broke free without F'n up the fuel lines or nuts.
I do not have alot of money to turn this minor maintainence into a major problem.
Sorry cheap bump.
My only transportation kind of an emergency.
Before I start looking into fuel pump.
Car will start and continue running with starter fluid.
I will be getting new plugs, wires, cap ,rotor.
Checking pressure and leakdown if the tune up does not fix my hard start problem.
Bit I am praying that the filter is the culprit.
When I "relieved" the fuel pressure only a trickle came out at the schrader valve.
But I still cannot break the fuel filter lines free.

Do not use starter fluid to start it.
Good way to blow the covers or oil pan off of a engine.
Always just use carb cleaner for starting.

Good brake line wrenches are a must have on the line nuts.
If nuts are froze on the line do not turn the nut and twist off line.
If so see if you can get other end loose and turn filter while you are holding frozen line nut.
If line nuts are froze to filter nut.
You can hold a steel brock or flate hammer behind filter nut fitting and crack the filter nut with a cold chiesel or crack it with a nut splitter.
Good Luck
MT
.

Ok so I went out and purchased a nut cracker.
$50 bucks!?
Now my stupid 7 dollar filter has cost me 60 bucks!
I got the nut cracker to work on one side and kinked my fuel line just slightly.
If I pinch it just a little the oposite way with a clamp will it hurt anything?
I cannot afford for this to go any worse.
Oh to top things off the friggin shifter cable is stretched out.(cannot be adjusted anymore works for a second then will not work after adjustment.) Only starts in Park and neutral.
There is another hundred dollars. If I do it myself.
Gotta pull the drivers seat according to the manual.
I do not know if I can do this all this weekend and get done in time for work. I am going to lose my friggin job over a 7 dollar part.
For what it matters thanks for the help.

Ok so I went out and purchased a nut cracker.
$50 bucks!?
Now my stupid 7 dollar filter has cost me 60 bucks!
I got the nut cracker to work on one side and kinked my fuel line just slightly.
If I pinch it just a little the oposite way with a clamp will it hurt anything?
I cannot afford for this to go any worse.
Oh to top things off the friggin shifter cable is stretched out.(cannot be adjusted anymore works for a second then will not work after adjustment.) Only starts in Park and neutral.
There is another hundred dollars. If I do it myself.
Gotta pull the drivers seat according to the manual.
I do not know if I can do this all this weekend and get done in time for work. I am going to lose my friggin job over a 7 dollar part.
For what it matters thanks for the help.

You are welcome.
Sounds like it is not going to good.

If the line is not broke or pinched shut might be better to leave it as is.

On the cable take a close look at it but I do not remember having to pull the seat.
Good luck
MT

HA!
I got the old filter off! What a bear.
Could barely blow thru it compared to the new one.
The new one went on very easy and torqued up no problem.
Put it in and it started right up ok.
( just a little wonkie until the gas got to the injectors.)

I popped the hood and saw the temp sensor under the thermostat is broken at the platic part where the prongs attach .
I think I broke it whan I did the water pump.
But it looked like it just corroded.
The prongs are still there.
I messed with it a little and it makes a big difference in how my truck idles.
Can I take this part off and replace it without losing too much fluid?
I just put a water pump on this truck like 3 weeks ago and do not want to have to buy another gallon 50-50 Dex-cool.
As far as the shift cable. ( It is a column shifter)
Can I fish this under the carpet without pulling the seat?
Sorry about all the obvoius questions.
It is nice to be able to pick the brians of people with FAR more knowledge than I.
Again Thanks .

HA!
I got the old filter off! What a bear.
Could barely blow thru it compared to the new one.
The new one went on very easy and torqued up no problem.
Put it in and it started right up ok.
( just a little wonkie until the gas got to the injectors.)

I popped the hood and saw the temp sensor under the thermostat is broken at the platic part where the prongs attach .
I think I broke it whan I did the water pump.
But it looked like it just corroded.
The prongs are still there.
I messed with it a little and it makes a big difference in how my truck idles.
Can I take this part off and replace it without losing too much fluid?
I just put a water pump on this truck like 3 weeks ago and do not want to have to buy another gallon 50-50 Dex-cool.
As far as the shift cable. ( It is a column shifter)
Can I fish this under the carpet without pulling the seat?
Sorry about all the obvoius questions.
It is nice to be able to pick the brians of people with FAR more knowledge than I.
Again Thanks .

On the tempt sensor.
If you change it when the engine is cold and with the rad cap on it should not leak out much coolant.
Have the new one ready to stick in as soon as you take the old one out.
I have never had to change the shift cabel on that one.
But I was thinking most of the cabel runs under the cab body.
Have a new cable ready before pulling old one and see if you can get old one off ok with out pulling the seat.
Good luck.
MT