new transmission create other problems!

Just had the tranny rebuilt along with new torque convertor and auxilary transmission cooler. Evidently the one in the rad wasn't doing a good enough job and was probably the reason the tranny went, according to the tranny shop. This model (2001 Safari) was fitted with a "car" rad and not a truck rad, again according to the tranny shop?!

Problem: engine light has come on and the engine runs at a low temperature (between 40 and 100, before it was at around 100, depending on weather conditions)
So, the question is are these new developments related to the work down on the tranny or is this yet another problem?

Thanks for the help!

BTW in a previous thread it was suggested that the sun shell was the problem and thats what it was...so congratulations to the person who figured that out from my diagnosis.

The transmission diagnosis was relatively easy because you gave a reasonably thorough description of the symptoms. The 4L60 is tough on the stock sun shell, its hub, and the 3-4 clutch. Hopefully, the repair shop used a quality replacement parts and not a stock shell/hub.

The overcooling is not likely due directly to the repaired transmission, but possibly something that was done as part of the repairs. Regardless, there is obviously a problem, so it needs to be diagnosed and corrected.

The first thing to do is confirm that the cooling system is completely filled and has no entrapped air. Air pockets can cause the temperature sensor to report a low temperature, then rapidly increase as steam flashes up to the heads and sensor.

The second thing to do is to verify that coolant is flowing while the engine is running. If there is no coolant flowing, a similar situation can occur.

The next thing to do would be to check that NO coolant is flowing to the radiator while the engine is warming up, and the thermostat is supposed to be closed. You can remove the radiator cap with the engine cold, start the engine and observe the coolant level as the engine warms. It should increase slowly, then rapidly drop once the thermostat opens and coolant flows to and through the radiator.

Of course, it would be good to verify that the temperature gauge is correct, and scan the PCM for the DTC(s) causing the MIL to light.

Hi
Thanks Blue Blowtie for the reply.

When I opened the hood, I noticed a couple of strange things
1. They've added what appears to a third rad. Its small and in front of the other 2?
2. To install this rad and its piping, they had to cut (hack more like it) quite abit of the plastic air intake off.
It originally came up from beside the rad at a low level and then turned 90 degrees to the air filter housing (not sure of the proper terminology). I'm sure the engineers designed the shape of the air intake for a reason?
Would this affect the air going into the engine?
Would this cause the engine to run cooler?
Would this cause the engine light to go on?
Can I safely run the van with the engine running cooler?

Thanks again!

It sounds like someone installed an aftermarket transmission oil cooler.

It also sounds like someone cut the plastic plenum from the intake ductwork in order to make room for the cooler and/or lines. The area you describe is upstream of the air filter and the MAF sensor, so it shouldn't affect the MAF reading. The more appropriate method would have been to remove that section of plenum (they are only snapped together) and sealed the end of the filter housing.

Neither of those alterations should be causing the coolant temperature to be lower. It might cause the engine to ingest hotter air, which will be more of a problem once summer arrives and underhood temperatures can exceed 200ºF. That could make for several problems, but isn't likely to cause your current symptoms.

The only good way to determine the cause of the MIL being on is to scan the PCM for stored trouble codes.

You should also verify coolant level and flow, and thermostat operation as advised above.

Hack is correct!!! I'd like to know their version of truck vs. car radiator.

I'd take it back and demand they properly repair my van.

I would also report them to your local Better Business Bureau.

Oh, and obviously, finding another repair shop...