Fixing paint in small areas/Sand through???

http://www.hsigraphics.com/junk/models/paint1.jpg

Wondered if there is any advice on fixing this kind of sand through aside from repainting the entire body?? I understand masking off, but when I have tried it before on other models, I can often see the repainted areas even after polishing.

Any tips? I hesitate another full coat of paint, cause I dont want it getting to thick. But if thats all I can do.. I will.

Thanks for any tips/advice.
-Bruce

Since it seems the rubbing through just happened on the door, you could possibly mask the door off, and re-paint just the door. I've never done this, it's just an idea, so you may want to wait for someone else who's dealt with this problem.

masking and re-painting the area is the way to go.
before you mask though, you might want to try and sand away the clear before the colour touch up.

When I last repainted a panel, I sanded the until i got through to colour, then sprayed. I then sanded again to smooth out the colour before putting on a final coat of colour.
Then clear.
After that clear, I sanded the whole thing and put one more layer of clear over the whole body.

Bare in mind that this was all done using cans.
If you're using an airbrush, you might be able to mask the area because of finer paint control.

Thanks guys. This is using cans, and I didn't clear coat it. It's (new to me) Testors Lacquer and after the several coats I put on, it looked so nice, I decided to just polish it without a clear. The areas that dont have the rub though look great.
I will try masking and repainting the door and see where it gets me.
Thanks all.

I would mask that off at the door lines, although shooting the whole area over again is probably the fastest way to go since you nailed the fender.

Think about doing another coat of color and taking it easy on the edges when re-sanding. The extra paint never hurts for a safety margin.

Bob

The problem with "hard-masking" the door is that you're likely to get ridges of paint on the sides of the panel gaps.

An alternative is to use regular kitchen foil to make a "soft-mask." Use tape to attach strips of the foil. Put the tape on the sides of the strips AWAY from the area you want to paint. Then lift the "masking" edge of the foil about 1/4" above the surface. When you re-spray the area, the lifted edge will feather the new paint into the old, e.g., there won't be a hard edge or ridge. It's lucky you're using lacquer, because new lacquer will blend nicely with the previous coat.

Far as I know, "soft masking" only works with lacquers.

Ddms

Thats the kind of hint I am looking for. I did just "hard mask" a couple days ago. It came out alright. But I am liking the sound of this for future repairs.

Thanks man.
B

The problem with "hard-masking" the door is that you're likely to get ridges of paint on the sides of the panel gaps.

An alternative is to use regular kitchen foil to make a "soft-mask." Use tape to attach strips of the foil. Put the tape on the sides of the strips AWAY from the area you want to paint. Then lift the "masking" edge of the foil about 1/4" above the surface. When you re-spray the area, the lifted edge will feather the new paint into the old, e.g., there won't be a hard edge or ridge. It's lucky you're using lacquer, because new lacquer will blend nicely with the previous coat.

Far as I know, "soft masking" only works with lacquers.

Ddms

you can also get a "paint leveller" spray from automotive supplies stores that, in real car painting, you spray over the new paint, paying extra attention to the edge between old paint and new paint, to blend the surfaces together.

Not 100% sure but this stuff is probably "just" the paint solvent in a can.
Thankfully, I've not had to try it yet.

you can also get a "paint leveller" spray from automotive supplies stores that, in real car painting, you spray over the new paint, paying extra attention to the edge between old paint and new paint, to blend the surfaces together.

Not 100% sure but this stuff is probably "just" the paint solvent in a can.
Thankfully, I've not had to try it yet.

:eek7: Hmmm. Sounds like it would make a mess, but you'd have to try it. Some :screwy: crazy-sounding ideas work pretty well. But still... I think I'll stick with soft masking until I hear some glowing reports.

Ddms

well... i wouldn't try it without an airbrush for proper control. As I said, it's intended for use over a full size car.
what it's suppose to do, is activate the surface of the paint so that the old and new level out and blend together.

do what they do on 1:1 cars... Mask off the other panels using the door lining, sand through some more of the paint in the door and then re-paint. lift-off the mask before the paint dries so that the edges will soften and not be hard edged.

Masking will give it a line and may end up looking worse if it turns out a slightly different shade
Spray the whole car again

The Testors spray lacquers like this have a lot of pigment, and no matter how much you buff them will not look proper w/o a clearcoat. They are a two-stage paint, they are supposed to be basecoat/clearcoat. You might be able to mask off the entire side of the car and reshoot just the side. Spray Testors clear lacquer or Tamiya TS clear over the color, then polish out and avoid edges.

Again, thanks for all the tips guys. Much appreciated. Thought I would share how it came out.

This is the body after the masking and repainting the door only. No clear coat and not sure it needs it. The body was sanded to 12000. All I did to the door after the repaint was a quick Novas #2 polish.

Also a pic of the paint I am using (Blazing Black). First time I used this stuff. Seems to laydown great and has a nice shine with minmal work...

Some you of think it would be worth it to Clear coat it? Would the results be much better?

http://www.hsigraphics.com/junk/models/gtxdoor.jpg

http://www.hsigraphics.com/junk/models/gtxside.jpg

http://www.hsigraphics.com/junk/models/gtxfull.jpg

http://www.hsigraphics.com/junk/models/paint.jpg

ZoomZoomMX-5 is right. Clearcoat it. "Kustom" metallic paint demands a very high gloss - to obscure the extremely out-of-scale metalflake, if for no other reason!

After you've clearcoated it, don't sand it. Instead, try going directly to Tamiya Coarse or Fine compound. (The "coarse" is NOT coarse, but it does eliminate orange peel.) Then try Tamiya Finish. It will give you a much higher gloss than Micromesh 12000.

Ddms

Cool deal! I will do that then. Will add those to my shopping list.

Also, What Clearcoat you guys recommend? I have just been using Krylon Clear Gloss. But I assume Tamiya must be better huh? And you think a couple coats at least?

Let ya know how it comes out.
B

ZoomZoomMX-5 is right. Clearcoat it. "Kustom" metallic paint demands a very high gloss - to obscure the extremely out-of-scale metalflake, if for no other reason!

After you've clearcoated it, don't sand it. Instead, try going directly to Tamiya Coarse or Fine compound. (The "coarse" is NOT coarse, but it does eliminate orange peel.) Then try Tamiya Finish. It will give you a much higher gloss than Micromesh 12000.

Ddms

Also, What Clearcoat you guys recommend?

A synthetic lacquer like Tamiya TS13. I decant it, thin it with lacquer thinner and spray it with an airbrush.

If you're using a rattle can, apply thin wet coats by holding the can close and moving it fast. That will keep orange peel to a minimum.

Ddms