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No power steering


ford.t
01-24-2008, 02:42 PM
Hi im posting my cougar in the t bird forums again lol. 4.6L XR7 how in the world do you get the high pressure line off of the rack. I can't even see were it goes to. :banghead: The guy i got it from has a compression fitting on it and it blew off earlier. PLEASE HELP is it a costly repair?

97Bird
01-24-2008, 06:06 PM
Hello again. You have to disconnect the steering comumn intermediate shaft coupling, remove the steering gear mounting bolts and then lower it to gain access to the hoses.

ford.t
01-24-2008, 08:54 PM
Ok that makes sense. Had to drive to class without p/s:shakehead . The guy i bought the car from owns a trans shop and said we could come in tomorrow morning and put it on the rack.:)

While i was under there earlier i looked at the module on the side of the trans and it has the red gasket, luckily. However just on the way to class it slipped sickly at about 25 mph. Then a short slip at 45mph on the way home, it is like 10 degrees out but idk if that matters. Should i change the fluid and filter or flush it, and fill it with mercon V? The guy said he rebuilt it, but you know how that goes.

Ohh yea, thank you very much for all your help.

97Bird
01-25-2008, 06:19 PM
If the guy you bought it from owns a tranny shop and said he rebuilt it then he should fix it for free. Does the fluid look and smell good? It shouldn't be too dark or smell burnt.

ford.t
01-25-2008, 07:15 PM
Well they did the power steering line in 2 hours and only charged us for 1, Im just happy my rack isn't getting stressed anymore:smooch: . The guy said he will replace the neutral safety switch monday. It seems like it goes into neutral occasionally when in 3rd or overdrive. I dont know how hard it is to replace but he's doing that for free since its his specialty.

And i did look in the trunk and there was a large triangle shaped twords the front and squared tword the back black box (I don't know if that's a good description) and a very small box with sensor just behind it twords the back of the car. Im guessing that's the inhertia switch.

I don't know what the bar is called, but it's the one going from the bottom of the spindel to the middle of the undercarriage with a large nut on it. How hard it it to change the bushings connecting it to the spindel. maybe it's the stabalizer bar or something. It is wore out and makes a sound like a bad ball joint when i hit a crack in the road. TNX for helping and sorry for long post

97Bird
01-27-2008, 11:56 AM
It's not hard to remove the lower arm strut to replace the bushings. You must remove the lower shock bolt, brake hose support bracket to body retaining bolt and the anti-lock sensor attaching bolt before prying the lower arm rearward to remove the strut. I would suggest you take the car to an alignment shop and let them check the whole suspension system out, replace the strut bushings and the align the car for you. They may find other loose or worn parts and you will have to have it aligned after replacing the bushings anyway.

ford.t
01-27-2008, 12:30 PM
Ohh really, because the alignment is perfect right now, i just want to get rid of that stupid noise. TNX thought , i will get it checked out.

ford.t
01-28-2008, 08:08 PM
sorry this thread isn't really about power steering anymore lol. I got hat fixed, however there is this extremely annoying rattle type noise that sounds like bad ball joints (would explain it best).

I just got my car off the hoist at school and the ball joints seem pretty good on both sides,driver moves just a tad but not much. The bushings that connect the long arm to the bottom of the spindel (other end of bar to the k-member) look a little wore out. Im not sure if they are called stabalizer bars or what. or how to check besides visual inspection to see wether they are good or bad. The bar is about 1.5-2 feet long and has a large nut on the k-member end.

The struts or shocks look to be original, However could anyone tell me what to look for to diagnose the loud rattle like noise when i hit the smallest crack in the road. It hits very hard on the passenger side but the driver side upper ball joint is the only one that has the slightest amount of play in it. Tie rods are good. Thanks and once again, i give a long post to thouroughly explain the sick cougar's problem :disappoin this car is awsome:icon16:.

97Bird
01-28-2008, 08:26 PM
Sorry but there is now way that the alignment can be perfect right now because the lower arm is constantly moving around. You are going to be wearing out the tire prematurely due to toe in and caster measurments that can't be held. Having anything loose in the front end is a very unsafe condition that should be repaired asap!

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