Just purchased 91 CRX DX need some advice!!

Hi everyone I just bought my third Honda with the intentionts on this one fixing it up. The other two were beyond my repair and budget. I've had a 91 CRX SI, great motor body was rusted out. And Ive had a 89 CIVIC DX. So all in all I havent had much time fixing the other two cars up but this one I believe I can restore back to a nice bueatiful car it once was!

I will try and post some pics of the car later. Heres the basic info on the car. Its a 91 CRX dx motor has 201k miles. I dont want to put a lot into this motor as I would eventually like to swap out with lower mileage engine. But at the same time Id like to other maitnence on the car that should be done. Can anyone point me in a few tips on what all I should do. I all ready have plans on getting to the rust spots next week. There are not a lot and my buddy does body work said it shouldnt be no time DA'in that car down, and some bondo. But anyway, Im ramblin just please any pointers would be great!! Thanks a lot!

i mean anything could need replaced with that many miles but id check bushings, gaskets, water pump, timing belt, main relay,etc. but do you kno any other history about the car?? how is it running?? did you ever buy the haynes or chilton manual for your other civics? it has all the info you could want to kno and most autozones have them. post up some pics when you get a chance.

an easy thing you could do is convert to MPFI youll get better gas mileage..but id just buy a d-series motor with it (d16a6,d16z6,d16y8) since you want a newer motor. id just save some cash for now just get an oil change and tune up..maybe plugs and wires..simple things you could switch over to a newer block once you buy one..

you could then upgrade your rear hubs to si rear discs or even take things from integras!! you can do anything to these cars!

check out wikipedia search honda d engine and youll learn a ton..search on here and update us with whatevers goin on with your car..

welcome to the site

As of right now the car runs great. They're new wires and plugs that I can tell, and a newer (small) battery. The car runs and shifts pretty smooth. I have some rear defogging issuses. The back window is fine but its the smaller of the two that are always fogged to hell?

Im posting some pics next, and some shots of the rust. Its gettin pretty cold and shitty here in OH, Im wondering if I should start on some of these spots soon? Any advice?

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Nice color man, but yeah id start on some of those spots asap, like this spring or summer.

where in OH you at man?? i got to OSU and live right by campus..but my crx is down by lancaster at the parents place. lemme kno if you need anything cuz ive got some parts and could help ya out mines the same color. hows the axles on it?? any clunking noises when you turn?? thats a decent amount of rust but yeah id just work on it as you can..

IMO the blower in the crx is weak it took forever to get that thing defogged..

FrodoGT (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=349617): thanks on the color props..Id like it to keep that color, I havent seen too many this color. As for the rust and various other spots Im getting the car into a garage this weekend and hitting em all.

thefooshmeister (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=451727): whats up neighbor lol, Im just about 20 min west of campus. I live on the edge of madison and franklin county. Im not sure about my axles for now, I havent noticed anything down there yet. Is there something I could spot by getting under the car? Is there any type of thorough under body inspections I should do?

About the parts, you have a Drivers seat, and driver door?

BTW all the drivers side door rust, dont matter. Im really looking to replace that door as it is bent near where the new fender is. The old fender bender had crunched that little bit of door. :(

nah i dont have any but i need to hit up the junkyards cuz i need drivers door glass and a b-series clutch so we can keep an eye out for eachother.

you could just look at the cv boots and see if they are torn. its the rubber connection on the axles. id just check for underbody rust..see what the exhaust system is lookin like..ill look but i think i might have just tossed my old exhaust setup a few weeks ago..doh!! i still have an apexi n1 muffler and some other aftermarket stuff im tryin to get rid of.

ive been really busy lately and havent gotten to work on mine lately..i kinda miss it but my jetta is fun too..

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/190/1500565800_57ab4a5ea5.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2003/2156412159_315d5b52e8.jpg

My muffler is just chillen there, I think some clamps and brakets are broke. I havent checked it out yet , the muffler is fine But I'd like to get a better muffler eventually....

Hey will 93-97 Del-sol mudflaps fit my REX? Thanks andwhat about doors and hoods, what will interchange with my CRX, thanks a lot guys and gals!!

No they wont. If your looking for doors you will need to get them off a 90-91 crx. Because of the seatbelts in the door the back end of the door is thicker and so the glass is shorter. The hood you can get off a hatch or a crx, as well as the fenders.

Whats a good price for a multi port fuel injector used in working condition? Thanks!

5-10 bucks tops? your talking about just one injector? If you just want ot replace your dpfi ones, they are a little different and are even cheaper.

Would this be a start of what I need for the MPFI swap?

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q28/FreshKicks1/multi-portfuelinjectionintake.jpg

you could start with that..or look for a d16a6 (si) intake mani cuz itll get better flow.. i think pbrizzle or someone had a whole mpfi kit for sale on here..lemme look around..

you could start with that..or look for a d16a6 (si) intake mani cuz itll get better flow.. i think pbrizzle or someone had a whole mpfi kit for sale on here..lemme look around..

Cool thanks, man. I just picked up 2 complete 90 CRX doors, for $50 total, little rusty but are in better condition then what I have. If you want the driver glass out one of the ones Im not using we can work something out.
:naughty:

does it have the belts in the door??? that be amazing!! yeah ive got some parts lyin around that youd need for mpfi idk what all you want for your crx. lemme kno asap about that glass

The intake you have pictured is a HF CRX intake.. it will work, but not well.. you should get the dizzy off that car tho, you'll need it for the swap. (You could use an Si dizz, but you'll pry get charged out the ass for it, and they're the same thing.)

the Si has more powerful spark than the HF. MYTH
The HF and Si use exactly the same parts, including the ignitor, and the spark is identical in either application.

i think i might have an Si dizzy but ill have to check when i go home next..got a busy week ahead..blehh..

List of MPFI parts:

Random wires (preferably the correct colors.)
HF or Si dizzy
Si or random D-series (Not HF) Intake. (Y8 if you can find it.)
Si or almost any other Honda TB (MPFI, obviously not HF)
Injectors (Any honda, make sure you get the wires, and the resistor box if the car you got them from requires it.)
Fuel rail (again, make sure it's from teh same car as the intake)
Intake gasket
TB gasket (not really necessary, I replace them anyway)
Si ECU (Not HF.. it will run, but you'll blow the engine in a week.)
Tune-up kit.
a few random plugs from under the hood (see depinning wires)
A small needle to depin wires
a few other random parts, that you'll probably break/found broken as you're working.
The Intake bracket that bolts to the block, if you care about it (I don't.)

Hey guys picked up the following parts for my MPFI swap today I know I need a few more things. I drove about 50 mi. for these: for only $45. Not a bad deal.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q28/FreshKicks1/100_1112.jpg
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So what else should I look into getting? I heard if I decide to do this I should also look into doing the water pump, timing belt, and si cams in soon also? Should I look into doing this? Ive seen these timing belt water pump seal kits go anywhere from 50-100 bucks on ebay. Are they decent? I know I should get the SI one no matter what though right? Here is one I was considering:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TIMING-Belt-KIT-WP-Honda-CIVIC-Si-EX-CRX-1-6-88-91_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQihZ011QQitemZ 320210586585QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

get them from teh parts store...

The list is up a few parts.

Don't use the Si cam, you won't be able to time it correctly w/o a adjustable cam gear, use a B2 cam if you want the upgrade, but I'm pretty sure your car is already a B2.

Looks like you're missing an injector there, you'll want another one of those... :rolleyes: You'll still need a resistor box unless you get another injector from a 92-95.. DON'T get anything else unless you get all four... the intake you have is from a 92-95, so unless you get 4 new injectors, you need 92-95 injectors.

You will also need the ecu from the car to match the intake manifold..if you want to stay obd-0 then you will need the resistor box and the injectors from an si.

not true.

The ECU doesn't really care what injectors it's playing with.. both send the same signal the resistor box is just there to make sure that you don't overpower the injectors.. (peak/hold vs. saturated), so you can use the PM6 for the swap regardless... (learned this after swapping DSM injectors to a 91 Si) You can actually run the resistor box still even w/ the 92-95 injectors, itwon't hurt them, but they'll never peak.

It does however care what size the injectors are..

*edit* After a little looking, im pretty sure they are all 240cc..so go hog wild.

we're gonna hit up the junkyards around us this weekend probly and im gonna show him what all he can nab parts from..gonna try to find him a decent y8 but mostly just focus on this mpfi swap. i forget what all wires he needs to run..is it just the injectors and the resistor box? or the dizzy too?

dizzy for the CPS, injectors, resistor (if applicable), pretty sure that's it, have to swap the two outer wires on the TPS tho.

And yes, they're all 240cc.

Except DSM blacktop (?) they're 450.

I use the DSM orange/pink top 240-260's b/c they're dual spray, and the fuel hits the valve caps rather than being sprayed into the intake stream.

SO if I get another injector from a 92-95 then I wont need the resisitor box? So all I need then is the dizzy and the ecu correct? Which two wires on the TPS will I have to switch?


dizzy for the CPS, injectors, resistor (if applicable), pretty sure that's it, have to swap the two outer wires on the TPS tho.

And yes, they're all 240cc.

Except DSM blacktop (?) they're 450.

I use the DSM orange/pink top 240-260's b/c they're dual spray, and the fuel hits the valve caps rather than being sprayed into the intake stream.

The TPS wires are the two on the outside of the plug... there are three in a line, change the left and right ones with each other as you're looking at it.. you really can't screw this up.

You'll need to change the pinouts of two wires at the ECU for the injectors, to run 4 instead of 2, and you'll need to wire in some extra pinouts for the Cylinder Position Sensor, which is part of the MPFI system, and tells each injector when to fire. Easiest way to do this is to keep the plug off your DPFI dizzy, depin all the wires from it, and one by one, put the wires from your MPFI dizzy into it, so they match up with the ones that were already there. You will have two extra wires, these two, you need to find a two pin plug, so you can mount them, and another plug that you can run down to the ECU that will match it.

So, what you should end up with is a dizzy with several wires in one plug, and 2 in another, and a plug that matches the 2pin that you can blend into your chassis harness, with pigtails on it. (wire ends)

Yes, if you get another 92-95 injector, you won't have to wire in a resistor box, but the wiring becomes somewhat different... you'll have to figure out the injector wiring from a walkthrough, and just omit the part about the injector resistor box.

Keep in mind, that if you come across one, even from an accord, (older model) you can/should use it, even if you're using saturated injectors.. it won't hurt them, it will just make it so they won't pump quite as much fuel, since they will never peak. Believe me, You'll still never run lean, at least not if you're not touching anything else on the motor yet.

The ECU you want is PM6, that will keep you OBD-0. There are a few alternatives that you could use, but some don't work correctly, others will require some rewiring, and still won't work correctly, etc.

If you're not running Vtec, it's not smart to use a Vtec ECU... some guys say it's still better b/c the ignition/fuel maps change at the Vtec event, and "when that happens, I can smoke anything" sorry guys, the only smoking you're doing is the unburnt fuel and carbon exiting your exhaust pipe.

If you \DO\ have Vtec, (if foosh finds you a Y8 or Z6) run the Vtec ECU, and if you wanna play w/ the Vtec system then, add a Vtec controller, or chip the ECU and get Crome or Hondata to reprogram the curves.

Cool man thanks for all the great advice/info!

If you dont remove vtec through programming itll throw a code anyway..

yep... can't remember the code number.. but there is no point in using the Vtec ECU unless you have Vtec.. I was just making mention of having Vtec w/o the ECU to handle it... you'd need to use a RPM switch or something.

OK...now Im running into trouble that is piss' me off.. The other day I installed my stereoand I think I may have ran my remote wire to my 12v constant. Therefore that leaves my amp running constantly, unless I unhook it from the batt. So I had to jump the car to get it started. It ran for a while and was good. Then I later that night I went to start it again, same thing had to jump the battery again. AFter I did that I drove it around a little so it would have time for the battery to get some juice flowing etc. This morning I go out to start it and the same damn thing is wrong except Im getting all lights on in car including the radio is on but nothing else the car wont turn over? Any help here? Thanks a lot!

Well it sounds like you've killed your battery. Its got no punch, and if its not totally shot then your only chance is to do a slow trickle charge. And for christ sake unhook the amp. There is a way to check for parasitic drain on the battery. I know the info is in the forum but im about to head to work.

Yea the amp, has been unhooked and hooked to a switch by now. Im just pissed, cause I had a battery charger for the longest time and last summer it died, and threw it out. Cause the battery is fairly new on the car...

For parasitic drain disconnect the ground(negative) wire from the battery, then connect a multimeter between the Negative post and the frame (preferably using alligator clips) With your multimeter set to mA you shouldn't read more than 25 mA being drawn. I've seen anywhere from 25-50 listed as the level to watch for online, so maybe some cars pull more. I know for my 88 Civic HB STD it pulls about 7 mA .