Clutch Problems

Hey all.
I am brand new to this forum but found it and thought it would be a good source of info for a guy who doesn't know a ton about cars.

Anyways... I have a 96 honda accord 5speed. I was driving home from work the yesterday and the clutch started acting funny. I had to push the pedal to the floor and it didn't seem to offer "resistance" until right before it hit the floor. Then after about 5 blocks at a stop light I could get it into 1st gear. I had to pump the pedal to get it to let me.

This is the first manual transmission i have owned and so I have NO idea what is going on. My dad said it sounded like the clutch was out. If that is the case, anybody have any idea how much it would cost to fix something like that??

Any help will be very much appreciated! Thanks

i know you are new but when u do a post u are supposed to add all info in the post like miles year and model that will help and if you say you had to pump your pedal its more than likely your master cylinder for the clutch is low on fluid and or the slave cylinder went out the slave cylinder could be found at the top of the clutch pedal and when it goes out the clutch fork will not engage the clutch inside the tranny and thus u will think the clutch is no good but usually when the slave cylinder goes out it leaves brake fluid on the floorboard or possibly you can just be out of clutch fluid try refilling the resivoir its a tiny tank typically by the brake fluid master cylinder

Sorry bout that...

Just in case it matters now. 96 honda accord, about 112,000 miles... 5 speed.

Anyways, thanks for the help man. I was looking for the fluid canister under the hood and I saw two resevoirs that for some reason I thought were brake fluid... (dumb I know) but now that you mention that the real small one I did notice that it was empty. I'll get some fluid and see if that helps.

Again many thanks.

Once you fill it, you'll have to pump the hell outta it to get the pedal back, you may even have to lift the pedal on the upstroke if it's really dead. Keep adding fluid as it pulls it in, or you'll just get more air in the line.

Watch for leaks under the car, good chance the slave blew a seal or the line got holed, in which case you'll have to repair before driving....the way you describe it deteriorating in a short distance it wouldn't surprise me...

So I located the resevoir and was looking in the manual and it said that I was to add brake fluid if the level got low. I am assuming I need to add that fluid right into the clutch fluid resevoir as opposed to the brake fluid resevoir which is right next to it? Being that it seemed to me they were independant.
Also, side note, why is it brake fluid I am adding?? Just curious. Thought there would be a clutch specific fluid that I would be putting in there.

Brake fluid is just a standard light hydraulic fluid...the hydraulics in the clutch system are no different than those in the brakes...you push, fluid pressure pushes another cylinder that pushes on something...doesn't matter if it's brake shoes or clutch fork...all works the same.

For future reference, or if you need work done to fix a leak, I'd go with DOT 4 rated fluid (Valvoline SynPower specifically), it holds up better than DOT 3 and is compatible...Do not use DOT 5 (silicone) fluid, it doesn't play well with other grades....

Yes you are filling the small resevoir next to the brake res. There is a rubber bladder that fits in the cap that pulls down into the resevoir as it looses fluid (keeps the fluid in the bottom so it doesn't suck airi nto the line)...push it back flat into the cap, sometimes they even pull free of the cap and are stuck in the resevoir...in that case you'd just be putting fluid on top of it if you don't remove it first (sounds funny but I've seen people do it)...just pull it out, fold back flat and press evenly into the inside of the cap..

maybe your lucky enough that just maybe your clutch is still good just remember to keep an eye on it and jeff explained it very well other than that i know it has a higher tolerance to friction and heat so the brake fluid doesnt evaporate also if it still acts funny you are going to have to bleed the system on the front of thae trans you will see the end of the hydraulic line coming from the clutch master cylinder and you will see what looks like a lubrication point but really its a bleed screw use a number ten wrench and have a friend pump the clutch with the car off pump it about ten times then hold the last pump then go release the screw making sure that your friend didnt release the clutch pedal until you close the screw its very much similar to bleeding brakes same concept do that about 5 times and also keep an eye on the cylinder when you are bleeding system as to not let the fluid run out thus you will put air back into the line

You probably have a leak. I had the same problem with a'90 Accord & it was a Clutch Slave Cylinder. This is the one that moves the clutch fork. It cost me $29 & about three hours. If you have a mechanic do it it shouldn't take them 3 hours.

Hey guys,
Just wanted to update you. I tried to add more fluid and it was dry, but that didn't help. So I took it to my mechanic, and apparently it is the master cylinder. (I think that is what he said). It's going to cost me 250 to fix. (Parts and labor)
So thanks for all the help and suggestions. Really appreciate it.

did you bleed the system for air??

did you bleed the system for air??

Nope. I wasn't entirely sure how to do that being that I know relatively little about cars. I so I just took it to my mechanic.

So anyways, a little update, it was the master cylinder for sure. It was leaking. I don't know how I was unaware because apparently it was leaking by my feet. The part was 94 dollars and it came to a grand total of 214 dollars.

Also, I think somebody may have mentioned cables earlier. In the 95 honda at least, there are no cables. And I think that is true for all the later models and well...

Again, thanks for the help guys, the car is running great now and smooth.

Thats the most expensive clutch master cylinder Ive heard of... I just did my master AND slave and it cost me 50$ total...

yeah when you go to a mechanic they can mark up to 40% mark up plus labor so yeah you got raped just like i did for my speedo problem now is it fixed and no more problems?

Depends where the part came from...I just checked, that M/C lists for $116 and costs $81.67 retail from the Honda dealer so that would be about right for a NEW unit if you bought it yourself, a rebuilt from a parts store should cost about $40-$60 depending on vendor and warranty....this is probably what was used as list price would put it up right at about what you paid...List (the price the shop customer is charged for parts) is typically 40-50% over shop cost (which is cheaper than what you pay as a walk-in.)

2 hours labor (not excessive what you take into account working under a dash, transferring the resevoir and having to bleed it once installed, etc) @ $60/hr and you are right at what you paid...I don't think you got screwed at all.

You guys gotta remember not everyone who gets a car repaired at a shop is getting screwed. And labor is not $30/hr anymore. I think the shop was fair.