Switching from Radio to CD

Hello. I just bought a 1993 Lincoln Continental Signiture Series with 42,000 original miles from a ninety five year old friend. I'm not getting sound from the speakers. The PO insists that the radio works and I must not be doing something correctly. The car has a cassete player built into the radio and a CD player lower in the dash. The radio turns on, switches stations and when I turn the volume up nothing happens, no sound. When I change channels I can hear a bump from the speakers, like they are getting power.

The previous owner says the last time it was used it was with the CD player. The CD player will not accept a CD,it wont pull a cd in. Is there something I am missing here? Is there a switch to change from CD to Radio? I checked the fuses in the fuse box that pops down when you pull the lever under the left dash and they all look OK. Is there another location for fuses? I checked the fuse on the amp in the trunk and it is good. I think my Ford Thunderbird used two fuses for the radio and I had a simular problem with it and fixed it by changing fuses.

Sorry for such a long post and thank you in advance for any help I may get from you folks!......Casey

According to the specs in the 1993 FSM (available from my web page) there was no CD player available from the factory in 93.

Maybe you'd better ask the PO how to switch from CD to other modes...
If the CD player isn't getting power maybe it has a separate inline type fuse ?

Thanks for being prompt! I have The Ford Electronic Sound System Operating Guide that shows the exact same CD player that's in the car but it doesn't say anything about switching from CD to radio. As for asking the PO, she was chauffeured in the car for the last 10 years and never personally operated the radio. She did know how to operate the telephone though.....Casey

BTW the sysem is named the Ford JBL Audio System with Ford Compact Disc Player...Casey

That's odd that the FSM doesn't show the Premium Sound package.. In later years the manuals do show the optional sound packages.

Regardless... some insight on later models might be helpful..

We normally have a function button (later years have many) that toggles through the installed components. That button multi-tasks, so it's not always marked with clear intent.

I'll scan the other manuals to see if there's another clue.....

Thanks Steven, I am thankful for the time your putting into it. The manual mentions a reset button for the microprocessor to protect the system. The manual says there is a small hole in the face of the disc player that you push with a pin to reset. There is no such hole so there may be a button somewhere. It's too dark to find now, I'll check it out in the morning.
Thanks again......Casey

I found diagnostics procedures for this system in the 1992 FSM, but it doesn't show a reset hole either.

It mentions the insertion of a CD overrides (takes control) of the HU and displays CD on the display panel. There was reference in the Radio troubleshooting section to checking the RCU and AMP fuse on those units in the trunk first.

It's a large manual, but it's 1992 :( so I don't know how relevant that would be.

Here's the sketch from the 1992 FSM:
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8125/1992cdplayerfy0.th.jpg (http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8125/1992cdplayerfy0.jpg)

These FSM's are available in me webpage if you want 'em.

Steven....I found the reset button. You remove the ashtray and there is a switch on the back of the CD player. Gave it a try, no go. Are you saying there are two units with fuses in the trunk? If so, I'll back in there and look for fuse #2.
What is the address to your web site? I'm new to forums and am still figuring out how to navigate through here!
Many thanks......Casey

Also, when removing the radio do I need to take off the trim? Thanks

You'd be better off getting the 93/94 Factory Service Manual from my webpage and running the diagnostics routines yourself, rather than waiting for me...

Click my user name 'Towncar', the pop-up menu include 'visit Towncar's homepage'...

On my webpage, scrolling down the left side, you'll find links to my FSM's.
Your's is the 1993/1994.

These are Ford's manuals in CD format. I've saved them to ISO (and image of the CD) and zipped them to compress the size.

You'll download yours, unzip it, and burn the ISO back to CD, or mount it. I have an instruction link (below the ISO links) on my webpage too if you need more information.

Cool, thanks. Don't know how to repay you. Do you any motorcycle problems? I can help out big time there.....Casey

Do you any motorcycle problems?

LOL :grinyes:

Funny you ask, I do have a classic KZ1000J-2 (82) with a valve problem. Long story short, rebuilt head just out of 'warranty' the center two exhaust valves start sinking... you might know a sinking valve narrows the gap between the follower and the cam lobe, so I periodically swap shims with smaller sizes. Eventually there is no more smaller shim.. now I'm fuk'd

I'm considering another valve/seat job, exhaust side only, the intakes haven't changed at all. I've been told that I can shave a bit off the top of the valve stem to compensate for all this sinking, and get back to thicker adjustment shims, but I've also seen warnings saying don't grind the stems at all.

I can see how grinding too much would be stupid, it'd allow the keepers to touch the followers and they'd pop out. Bang, Bang, Clatter, Clatter, R.I.P.

Any insight on this one :)

I understand your problem. The cam springs slams the valve closed. Over time the valve reccesses into the seat, exposing a longer piece of stem requiring a narrowed shim.

Shaving the valve stem is not an option. You may be removing a hardened surface which would guarantee distruction of the valve.

A used head may be more cost effective then pressing in new seats. You'ld be lucky to find new valve seats. How many miles are on your bike? You may be looking at the same problem down the road.

Let me know if you end up looking for a head. There are many bike scrap yards in my area that will ship to you direct.

I own a Yamaha Vmax. It has almost the same set up as your Kawi. I checked the valve clearance lately and i'm good for about ten thousand more miles.

At one time I owened a Z-1. Should have kept it. Your KZ is a real keeper. I've heard that the value of these bikes are going to triple in the next ten years.

I love KZ-1000s. Nothing like them in the world. I would go out and buy one in a heart beat but even the thrashers are going for big bucks aroun here.
Take care.....Casey

....How many miles are on your bike? You may be looking at the same problem down the road.

...

I'm closing in on 100k miles, something like 97k. I haven't taken her out in about three years due to this valve problem. The bottom end is in great shape, I'm on my 2nd set of pistons with no problems there.... I was looking for a complete motor for awhile but couldn't find one nearby. I may have better luck now, all the CHP KZ's are retiring, along with their spare parts.

Thanks for the advice.

Good idea. You got every last mile out of your Kawi. The CHP bikes are well taken care of. Just keep your original case for the matching numbers.

This Conti of ours is a real beauty. I'm sure I'll have a question every now and then to submit to the forum.
Thanks again....Casey