97 Jimmy No HVAC or Power Windows...Flashing ABS and Brake Lights
WisdomRacing
01-18-2008, 11:25 PM
This is a strange problem that started off occuring sporadically, and over time (now) is always happening. In fact it's been about a month and half since I've been able to roll down my windows or use the HVAC system and that was after driving for about an hour and a half.
I assumed this was simply a problem with oil in the vacuum lines, but since the power windows weren't working either, I've become quite confudled. When driving, my ABS and Brake lights will flash intermittently...usually when applying the brakes but often without touching them. When I try to roll down the windows (whether or not the lights are flashing) they 1.) will not roll down or show any response at all and 2.) will cause the lights to start flashing again. The light (usually the abs but sometimes both) will stay on for as long as I hold down the button. When I let go usually it will flash off real quick but then immediately turn back on and stay that way or flash intermittently (assuming the car is moving).
With the HVAC system, the same thing occurs. If I turn the blower switch to any position, the abs light will illuminate and stay that way for as long as the switch is in any one of it's 'on' positions. The blower motor will not turn on however. I do feel a difference when switching from hot to cold though...it's just the air is not being blown out by the motor, rather venting out. I believe the AC compressor kicks on as well, but I can't confirm that.
The other night my airbag light began to illuminate as well. Whether or not it's related I'm not sure as it hasn't occured again.
The last time either one of these worked, they both did, and continued to work even after turning off and restarting the engine. It wasn't until the car sat for a few hours (I'm thinking maybe when the engine cooled off?) that it returned to it's usual state of not allowing either system to operate.
This has me quite confused. I am fairly certain I need to clean the wheel sensor for my ABS as it will randomly engage while driving, but I cannot see how that, oil in the vacuum lines, or even a combination of the two will not allow my windows to roll down. I've pulled fuses (from the box in the cab) in an attempt to isolate the problem, but found those efforts to be fruitless.
Sorry for the long post...I tried to make it as short as possible but the symptoms are so strange I felt they needed to be outlined in detail. I really appreciate any help. I'd like to try to stay away from a mechanic as much as possible. Actually with the way things are going sometimes I feel like a priest qualified to perform an exorcism would be of more help...
I assumed this was simply a problem with oil in the vacuum lines, but since the power windows weren't working either, I've become quite confudled. When driving, my ABS and Brake lights will flash intermittently...usually when applying the brakes but often without touching them. When I try to roll down the windows (whether or not the lights are flashing) they 1.) will not roll down or show any response at all and 2.) will cause the lights to start flashing again. The light (usually the abs but sometimes both) will stay on for as long as I hold down the button. When I let go usually it will flash off real quick but then immediately turn back on and stay that way or flash intermittently (assuming the car is moving).
With the HVAC system, the same thing occurs. If I turn the blower switch to any position, the abs light will illuminate and stay that way for as long as the switch is in any one of it's 'on' positions. The blower motor will not turn on however. I do feel a difference when switching from hot to cold though...it's just the air is not being blown out by the motor, rather venting out. I believe the AC compressor kicks on as well, but I can't confirm that.
The other night my airbag light began to illuminate as well. Whether or not it's related I'm not sure as it hasn't occured again.
The last time either one of these worked, they both did, and continued to work even after turning off and restarting the engine. It wasn't until the car sat for a few hours (I'm thinking maybe when the engine cooled off?) that it returned to it's usual state of not allowing either system to operate.
This has me quite confused. I am fairly certain I need to clean the wheel sensor for my ABS as it will randomly engage while driving, but I cannot see how that, oil in the vacuum lines, or even a combination of the two will not allow my windows to roll down. I've pulled fuses (from the box in the cab) in an attempt to isolate the problem, but found those efforts to be fruitless.
Sorry for the long post...I tried to make it as short as possible but the symptoms are so strange I felt they needed to be outlined in detail. I really appreciate any help. I'd like to try to stay away from a mechanic as much as possible. Actually with the way things are going sometimes I feel like a priest qualified to perform an exorcism would be of more help...
MT-2500
01-19-2008, 09:43 AM
Proper testing first.
But the 97 has a lot of bad ign switches.
Which cause strange electrical problems or stuff not to work.
MT
But the 97 has a lot of bad ign switches.
Which cause strange electrical problems or stuff not to work.
MT
dugan50
01-19-2008, 10:41 AM
I agree with MT2500
A loss of power from the iginition switch will do many of the things you have listed....This is VERY COMMON
As far as the airbag goes though, check out this site if the flashing light reoccurrs.
On most vehicles, the airbag light should come on for @6 seconds, and then go off if the system is working properly. If there is a fault or a problem in the system, the light will remain illuminated, or flash continuously. If the airbag light does not work properly, some vehicles have an audible tone that sounds indicating a problem with the airbag light system. When the light is on (or the tone is sounding), the airbag will NOT deploy, even in an accident. Most systems can only be diagnosed using a scanner designed for the airbag system, however some use flash codes to indicate the problem. The scanners at Auto Zone or the ones that sell for @ $50 will not access the airbag system, only the engine systems (check engine light).
This website gives you the procedure for diagnosing and resetting some systems without a scanner. Some vehicle manufacturers accommodate that (like Toyota, Lexus, Nissan, Infinity, Honda, Acura, Ford, Lincoln, Mazda & Mercury) and some require a scan tool. http://www.airbagsolutions.com/
Check out these websites also for more info on airbag systems and the light.
http://blog.airbagsolutions.com/archive/2007/11/18/why-is-my-airbag-light-on.what-should-i-do.aspx
http://www.airbagsolutions.com/resources.aspx
http://blog.airbagsolutions.com/
Check out this scanner for AIRBAG>>>It’s the cheapest one I’ve found!
http://www.airbagsolutions.com/scanner.aspx
A loss of power from the iginition switch will do many of the things you have listed....This is VERY COMMON
As far as the airbag goes though, check out this site if the flashing light reoccurrs.
On most vehicles, the airbag light should come on for @6 seconds, and then go off if the system is working properly. If there is a fault or a problem in the system, the light will remain illuminated, or flash continuously. If the airbag light does not work properly, some vehicles have an audible tone that sounds indicating a problem with the airbag light system. When the light is on (or the tone is sounding), the airbag will NOT deploy, even in an accident. Most systems can only be diagnosed using a scanner designed for the airbag system, however some use flash codes to indicate the problem. The scanners at Auto Zone or the ones that sell for @ $50 will not access the airbag system, only the engine systems (check engine light).
This website gives you the procedure for diagnosing and resetting some systems without a scanner. Some vehicle manufacturers accommodate that (like Toyota, Lexus, Nissan, Infinity, Honda, Acura, Ford, Lincoln, Mazda & Mercury) and some require a scan tool. http://www.airbagsolutions.com/
Check out these websites also for more info on airbag systems and the light.
http://blog.airbagsolutions.com/archive/2007/11/18/why-is-my-airbag-light-on.what-should-i-do.aspx
http://www.airbagsolutions.com/resources.aspx
http://blog.airbagsolutions.com/
Check out this scanner for AIRBAG>>>It’s the cheapest one I’ve found!
http://www.airbagsolutions.com/scanner.aspx
WisdomRacing
01-20-2008, 02:16 PM
Cool thanks for the help quys. I supposed I'll change out the ignition switch and see if that doesn't fix the problem.
One more sympton I failed to mention before but may be very important is that I pulled code PO719 - Brake Switch B (Circuit Low Input) a couple times. It's not consistent though, nor is it consistent with anything in particular...but evident none the less.
What would this point to?
One more sympton I failed to mention before but may be very important is that I pulled code PO719 - Brake Switch B (Circuit Low Input) a couple times. It's not consistent though, nor is it consistent with anything in particular...but evident none the less.
What would this point to?
WisdomRacing
02-01-2008, 03:07 AM
Please forgive my ignorance, but is the "ignition switch" what is believed to be faulty or the "ignition starter switch"...?
MT-2500
02-01-2008, 07:59 AM
The electrical part of ign switch.
If it is acting up or doing it at the time a good wiring diagram of ign switch power in and out feeds and a old style 12 volt bulb type test light will tell the story.
Good Luck
MT
If it is acting up or doing it at the time a good wiring diagram of ign switch power in and out feeds and a old style 12 volt bulb type test light will tell the story.
Good Luck
MT
WisdomRacing
02-01-2008, 06:03 PM
Got it that's what I was thinking, figured I'd clarify beforehand.
One more question though...I bought an "uncoded" switch...now could I just pull those little slides out of the old cylinder one by one and put them in the new one? Or do I really need to have a dealer code it?
One more question though...I bought an "uncoded" switch...now could I just pull those little slides out of the old cylinder one by one and put them in the new one? Or do I really need to have a dealer code it?
MT-2500
02-01-2008, 06:21 PM
Always check how to section for how to stuff.
This one should help you.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=287636
This one should help you.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=287636
WisdomRacing
02-05-2008, 08:27 PM
My problem, including the abs light, was solved with a new Ignition Starter Switch...I took the switch apart thinking maybe I could clean off the carbon built up on the prongs, but as soon as I got it apart springs went flying everywhere. I just bought a new switch. They're a bit pricey, but an OEM AC Delco one runs for $80 at RockAuto.com...not too bad when compared to the store.
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