Replacing Locks on Chevy Truck
j0hnnyb0y84
01-15-2008, 01:17 PM
Okay... got the fuel pump problem solved (woohoo!)... but, the driver side lock doesn't work. I could stick a fork in there and turn it to lock/unlock it. Is this easy to fix? If so, what's the best way to do it?
jasont26
01-15-2008, 03:09 PM
its not to hard, you take the door panle off and there is 1 rod on it to take off then the clip just pull on it and it if off. i hope you have smell armes some are hard to reach. the hardist part is finding 2 good maching ones to replace the old ones.
J-Ri
01-15-2008, 04:17 PM
Any locksmith should be able to set a new cylinder to your present key... but what's the problem? The fork works, right? :lol:
bigcoconut
01-16-2008, 08:30 AM
Same thing on my 91, my son calls and says he locked the keys in the truck and then calls back saying no problem, he unlocked it with his pocket knife, WTH??? Got home that evening and sure enough, if it was flat it would turn the cylinder. Turns out the tumblers in the cylinder get stuck.
1. Try is some WD-40 or other very light lubricant. Move the key in and out and see if that free's up the tumblers so they spring back to lock the cylinder from turning. If not go to step 2.
2. Buy new lock cylinders, cost me 10 bucks at AutoZone for new ones. Trust me, thats as easy as it gets, from there on it gets to be a PITA.
If you want some instructions on how I did my 91 keep reading, otherwise stop here and go see your mechanic.
Remove the inside door panel by prying out the plastic retainers all around the edge (sides and bottom). Once they are out lift up to get the clips off of the door window frame. You'll have to pry the door lock/window assy out also and feed it through the inner panel when you remove the panel.
When the inner panel is removed you've got to get the window regulator assembly off. Make sure the window is all the way down. First remove the moisture barrier plastic (or waxed paper), don't tear it, you'll need to put it back on. Remove the screws around the black sheet metal, and pull it back just little at the top. Get in at the top and unclip the door lock (auto and manual) mechanism rods. With the rods detached and all of the screws out the regulator assembly will want to fall out, don't let it until you move it forwards and backwards by hand to get the window regulator itself out of the window tracks. Once free, leave the wires attached and rotate it down and toward the door hinges area, it should lay on the ground propped against the door out of the way. That was the hard part.
With the window free in the door frame, pull it up by hand rotate it clockwise, while standing between inside door and truck for the drivers window (the passenger window would be rotated CCW). The forward window track should move out of the way (bend a little) and pull the whole window up through the door slot. If the forward track doesn't move enough you may have to remove another larger bolt from the top of the track that holds it to the door, this will free it more. Now you can get at the door handle and lock mechanism.
By this time I was thinking just how much it would have cost me to have some one else do this...:-)
The door handle and lock mechanism rods are just behind the rear window track %^&*#$, couldn't move it either, Chevy decided to weld this one in place *&^%$. Pop those rods off with a small screwdriver and remove the two bolts holding the door handle and the handle comes out through the outside of the door. The old lock is held in with a simple spring clip, pop it out and pop the new one in.
Reverse the above to re-assemble and repeat for the other door, there are two new lock cyinders in the box.:-)
1. Try is some WD-40 or other very light lubricant. Move the key in and out and see if that free's up the tumblers so they spring back to lock the cylinder from turning. If not go to step 2.
2. Buy new lock cylinders, cost me 10 bucks at AutoZone for new ones. Trust me, thats as easy as it gets, from there on it gets to be a PITA.
If you want some instructions on how I did my 91 keep reading, otherwise stop here and go see your mechanic.
Remove the inside door panel by prying out the plastic retainers all around the edge (sides and bottom). Once they are out lift up to get the clips off of the door window frame. You'll have to pry the door lock/window assy out also and feed it through the inner panel when you remove the panel.
When the inner panel is removed you've got to get the window regulator assembly off. Make sure the window is all the way down. First remove the moisture barrier plastic (or waxed paper), don't tear it, you'll need to put it back on. Remove the screws around the black sheet metal, and pull it back just little at the top. Get in at the top and unclip the door lock (auto and manual) mechanism rods. With the rods detached and all of the screws out the regulator assembly will want to fall out, don't let it until you move it forwards and backwards by hand to get the window regulator itself out of the window tracks. Once free, leave the wires attached and rotate it down and toward the door hinges area, it should lay on the ground propped against the door out of the way. That was the hard part.
With the window free in the door frame, pull it up by hand rotate it clockwise, while standing between inside door and truck for the drivers window (the passenger window would be rotated CCW). The forward window track should move out of the way (bend a little) and pull the whole window up through the door slot. If the forward track doesn't move enough you may have to remove another larger bolt from the top of the track that holds it to the door, this will free it more. Now you can get at the door handle and lock mechanism.
By this time I was thinking just how much it would have cost me to have some one else do this...:-)
The door handle and lock mechanism rods are just behind the rear window track %^&*#$, couldn't move it either, Chevy decided to weld this one in place *&^%$. Pop those rods off with a small screwdriver and remove the two bolts holding the door handle and the handle comes out through the outside of the door. The old lock is held in with a simple spring clip, pop it out and pop the new one in.
Reverse the above to re-assemble and repeat for the other door, there are two new lock cyinders in the box.:-)
bigcoconut
01-16-2008, 08:34 AM
BTW - I found some cool lock safety plates online and installed them. Go to this website:
http://www.jimmijammer.com/index.html
They are small plates that you simple screw in place behind the door handle that prevent a jimmi from coming down and grabbing the mechanism rod and a screwdriver from punching through below the handle and un-latching the mechanism rod.
Of course that means if you lock your keys in the truck, you ain't getting in without a locksmith or a busted window.
http://www.jimmijammer.com/index.html
They are small plates that you simple screw in place behind the door handle that prevent a jimmi from coming down and grabbing the mechanism rod and a screwdriver from punching through below the handle and un-latching the mechanism rod.
Of course that means if you lock your keys in the truck, you ain't getting in without a locksmith or a busted window.
j0hnnyb0y84
01-16-2008, 12:43 PM
Thanks for the replies! - I'll try that this afternoon.
Another related issue - I can't find the keyless entry remote for my truck, either. Is it very expensive to get those re-made?
Another related issue - I can't find the keyless entry remote for my truck, either. Is it very expensive to get those re-made?
J-Ri
01-16-2008, 05:01 PM
BTW - I found some cool lock safety plates online and installed them. Go to this website:
http://www.jimmijammer.com/index.html
They are small plates that you simple screw in place behind the door handle that prevent a jimmi from coming down and grabbing the mechanism rod and a screwdriver from punching through below the handle and un-latching the mechanism rod.
Of course that means if you lock your keys in the truck, you ain't getting in without a locksmith or a busted window.
I have never seen someone try to get in behind the door handle... I did see a vehicle where someone ripped/cut/broke the handle out to get in. Give me a piece of brake line and a wooden door stop and I can be in 90% of vehicles in less then 30 seconds with no damage at all (customers always seem to forget to leave that second key... :rolleyes: )
http://www.jimmijammer.com/index.html
They are small plates that you simple screw in place behind the door handle that prevent a jimmi from coming down and grabbing the mechanism rod and a screwdriver from punching through below the handle and un-latching the mechanism rod.
Of course that means if you lock your keys in the truck, you ain't getting in without a locksmith or a busted window.
I have never seen someone try to get in behind the door handle... I did see a vehicle where someone ripped/cut/broke the handle out to get in. Give me a piece of brake line and a wooden door stop and I can be in 90% of vehicles in less then 30 seconds with no damage at all (customers always seem to forget to leave that second key... :rolleyes: )
j0hnnyb0y84
01-17-2008, 12:54 PM
The WD-40 did it! Thanks!
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