Alignment procedure.

I've been looking over the alignment adjustment document I have here (http://gatorac.com/webapp/GetPage?pid=503). It says .....square up the upper control arm
pivot axis with the plane of the chassis. The upper control arm should be
parallel with the chassis uprights....


It then says to adjust caster with the brake strut rod. My upper control arms are not square with the chassis. Not even close. It's obvious the upper control arm was used for setting caster as well as camber. Just by looking at things, if I squared the arm up with the chassis, it would move my front tire too far forward.

Anyone have a school car with the upper control arm square? Any thoughts?

Here are a couple of pics of my car's upper A-arm. There is nothing square about how it's positioned currently. I'm in agreement with you that the geometry gives the car A LOT of negative caster.

Pic #1 is looking toward the rear of the car. Sorry for the poor focus.
http://www.myfilestash.com/userfiles/stoughtong/Alignment%20001.jpg

Pic#2 is looking down on the upper A-arm.
http://www.myfilestash.com/userfiles/stoughtong/Alignment%20002.jpg

Does this look like your set up?

I'm gonna have to stare at the geometry a while before I can offer a suggestion on how to get the preferred alignment without all that caster.

I've been looking over the alignment adjustment document I have here (http://gatorac.com/webapp/GetPage?pid=503). It says

It then says to adjust caster with the brake strut rod. My upper control arms are not square with the chassis. Not even close. It's obvious the upper control arm was used for setting caster as well as camber. Just by looking at things, if I squared the arm up with the chassis, it would move my front tire too far forward.

Anyone have a school car with the upper control arm square? Any thoughts?
Just unloaded #10 car and it looks exactly (rear bolt to the inside-max adjustment) new and reading everything-thanks

Mine's the same way and was recently alligned.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/cobra4b/Panoz%20GTRA/DSCF1136.jpg

Mine's the same way and was recently alligned.



Mine was recently aligned too. But, if we all got our cars from Hayes, they where probably all aligned by the same guy. He may not have had access to the alignment instructions we have now. Or, it could be that, with these uca's, we have to set caster with the uca.

I'm going to run the car this event (NASA end of February) as is. Then I will be installing fresh Konis w/ 550 front springs and moving the 350s to the rear.

I'll get it re-alligned and corner-weighted.

Hi Guys Since we all know that these cars have been uh lets just say driven hard most of there life this is what you may want to think about doing...Just take the car to a really good alignment guy that has a really good line up rack ( lazar is a good idea ) and get them to line the car to the specs you want and this way they can also square the rear end in the car ( which is very important )...Most of them can print the data for you and will be glad to give it to you when they are finished....If you like to lets say screw with your own car take it back to your shop and check the alignment and make your own refrence points, take some good notes and from then on you will have the data and notes to do it yourself and make small changes if you want....Gary

Gary;
Good idea. I think I'll measure my alignment first with the tools on hand, and then measure it again after the professional alignment to see if there is a difference. That way if I choose to do it myself in the future, I have a basis to determine just how good my measurements are (in comparison to laser made measurements).
My local Firestone dealer does a lifetime alignment for $120. He's done my Z 06 for several years. He doesn't complain one bit when I bring the car back month after month. I called him this afternoon and he said he'd do the same deal for the Panoz. Just more trouble to haul the car in a trailer all the way to his shop for the alignment.