changeing motor ing20

I would like to know where i can get on the net or forum a detailed writing on removing the motor out of a G 20 full size Chev van . It is a Star craft conversion. Have work on older cars years ago I do know my way around a bit . Son blew up his motor and dear dad has to come to rescue due to low funs. I know it will come out the front so ihave been told . How long of job and how difficult is it . I know it might be a bitch . We got a motor out of 91 blazer runs good still in truck . What would i need to change ( computer , sensors, pulleys , fly wheel , tor ck converter ,etc. ) Thats where I'm am lost hate to put it in and not run .
Motor is 350 in van and in Blazer
Not changing trans.
Any and all info no mater how small or big would be appreciated

Thanks

Im no expert, but would call it a long and hard job. I have done it on a mopar van (440 V8), and assisted on a friends G20 van; havent had to do it to my own G20 Chevy yet. Hopefully someone will answer who has done it for real.
You can search for Chev. forums of course. At google.com using: "+chevy +van +forum +swap" for instance. The plus signs mean you only see sites that include all of those words.
You should get at least a Chilton or Haynes manual. You can find original Chevy manuals (published by GM) on ebay. But there are a wide range of official manuals for the van products; all will have 'Light Duty Truck' as part of the title. The '10-30 series 1987 Light Duty Truck Service Manual ' is the title of my thickest one. Then are associated manuals for the 'emissions & driveability' for 'unit repair', etc. Nothing is repeated, and the books cover all engines & options in the year on the cover, so you are chasing information/procedures to/fro in different sections of the manuals, but it is there in excruciating detail. This is nice when it comes time to be torquing bolts down.
Some of the hard parts are just getting the exhaust system unbolted (do you own an acetylene torch?), then unplugging everything - in such a way that you will be able to put it back together. Take lots of digital pictures during disassembly! I like to cover open connectors with small plastic bags held in place with rubber bands.
You remove the grille, condenser & radiator of course. It may be possible to just pivot the condenser to one side. That depends on how many times you are willing to snag your sleeves on it. On the mopar van we removed the front bumper hoping the oil pan wouldnt have to come off. We used a cantilever hoist with the shortest possible chain to bolts atop the motor (carb was removed). We didnt remove the intake/exhaust manifolds or the oil pan off and erhaps we should have. (If you can avoid removing the exh manifolds on the 350 I would advise leaving them in place.) It was necessary to turn the 440 motor on an angle so one rocker cover was almost on top, to allow room for the boom of the hoist and still have the oil pan clear the front frame cross member.
It took 2 of us three evenings to get the motor out - and 2 evening to get the identical replacement back in. Its not fun if you have to hurry the job, and with the engine out of the way, you will likely find several other things in there which also need repair. I would do any repair or rebuilding to the 'new' 350 while its on the workbench of course; maybe main seals for instance, and new gaskets for the rocker covers, unrusted & new studs and new gaskets for the exhaust manifolds. Its possible the manifolds will be different of course; use the ones that match with the fuel injection and emissions systems on the vehicle.
I would think you will have to transfer the entire set of front accessory brackets from the engine you are taking out, and when the starter goes back in, you will need to check the shims for positioning it. I would use a new coolant temp sensor. Make certain all of the pulleys line up perfectly where the serpentine belt runs.
While the exhaust system is dropped would be a good time to change the filter/gasket on the automatic tranny too.
If you arent working on a concrete surface, and the ground is gravel or is uneven, it will be hard to pull the hoist out with the 350 hanging. A 4 by 8 piece of plywood on the ground helps with this.
Try to be as gentle with the wiring harnesses as you can. I always rub hand cleaner (without 'lava') onto my hands before I begin working on a car each time.

thanks for info i will put it thought

Apparently you can still get the Chevy manuals from the original publisher, Helm Inc. www.helminc.com/ They list the 3 manuals for the van for $105. I think they would pay for themselves on an engine replacement.