Enthalpy tune or e-mance

Im upgrading the turbo the injectors on my s13 redtop sr20. Has anyone ever heard of emance tuning? They are only $150 compared to enthalpy $500. I was about to send my ecu to enthalpy but then came across emance. It sounds too good to be true, to me. But I dont know. I could use the extra cash. But I want someone reliable too.

whatever you do, invest in a piggyback. even enthalpy/JWT/anything is only a rough tune. there will be holes in the maps because they dont actually have YOUR car to tune, and every car is different.

alright Ill probably get one in the future. But has anyone heard of e-mance? Are they any good? safe?

never heard of it.

Enthalpy is fair enough.

They don't have holes in the map they just run really rich to be safe. not really enough to invest in AFCs

AFCs are total dicks in all cases imo = no timing control = straight to dumpster.

the guy i sold my old motor to had an enthalpy tune and he said his car didnt run very well until he cleaned it up with a piggyback. possibly because of a rich tune, he said his throttle response was shitty. so thats where i got my info from.

Well enthalpy has my ecu already, so we'll see what happens. He said I should expect 330-345rwhp with my setup. I'll keep you guys updated.

The enthalpy tune works perfect. Car pulls very hard and smooth and idles perfect. At first it would just stall out at random times. After 30 min of driving I guess it relearned itself and never stalls at all. I'll see how it runs on the dyno soon,

nice, nice. i just have to ask though, you didnt vent your BOV did you?

yea its a vented hks bov

Now its acting up again. Stalled out at idle like 15 times saturday. Now it doesn't stall out, but it backfires twice between 5000-6000rpms at wot all the time. So I ordered the safc neo and dyno time next weekend. Hopefully that will fix these problems. I think your right slideways about the rom tunes running to rich.

If I turn the boost down to 15lbs it doesn't backfire, only at 18lbs. Its supposed to be tuned for 18

If I turn the boost down to 15lbs it doesn't backfire, only at 18lbs. Its supposed to be tuned for 18

oh yea and I have code 12, (air flow meter). Is that normal since I have a z32 maf?

I cleared it. Now I got code 34, for the knock sensor. Is the knock sensor bad?

eeesh. well a couple things. dont vent your BOV. its a big reason why your running rich. a MAFS measures the mass of air, not the pressure like a MAP system. so any air that you vent when you let off the throttle is air that has already been read by the MAFS and the fuel will be supplied for this air that just left your intake via the BOV. now recirculate that bitch like your supposed to. second, i hope you told enthalpy about your z32 MAFS. if you didnt, you need a retune. they operate at different levels, so your ECU wont be able to read one if it thinks its the other. thirdly, i hope your knock sensor isnt bad, but if it is i believe courtesyparts.com stocks em.

btw anyone who drives a nissan should know about courtesyparts.com
factory nissan parts that might be hard to get from many local dealerships, depending on where you live.

Well its not the knock sensor. I put a new one and the code still came back, so I returned it and put the old one back in. I have continuity between the ecu and the sensor. But exactly where are the grounds located for the knock sensor? Is it the two on the last intake runner? I did tell enthalpy about the z32 maf. But the maf code only came up once. It still breaks up and backfires 4500 rpms+ at wot. At part throttle its fine. Hopefully the dyno tune with the safc will fix the breaking up at high rpm's.

ok dyno the tuning did not go well. Car was running way to lean and the afc neo couldn't correct it. Turned out the fuel filter was really clogged up bad. Now runs a whole lot better, and doesn't break up anymore at wot. Going back to dyno monday morning. Does anybody know what setting in and out on the safc, I have it on 2 and 2, is that right? enthalpy tune for 740cc z32 maf.

lol so now your tune is fine.

take the safc off before you fuck it up agian.

my car started acting up again, on the dyno. I made 290rwhp 320tq not getting past 4700rpm. Missing, hesitating at high boost. turned out spark plug gap was too open. I cant believe the gap would make such a huge difference. Now power is smooth to redline. Going back to dyno sometime this week. I think hp should be in the 320 range.

so it sounds like everything is starting to fall into place. now your getting an idea of how much attention to detail running a high power turbo car takes. you dont have to take the AFC off, it can be useful if you ever change a part or two in the future, or up the boost some more. but i really dont know a whole lot about using one. im not the one to ask about the settings.