2 Problems New Member

Just joined because starting to have problems with
my 1999 Intrique , 50k miles ..........

First Problem is stalling after car is warm ie at
traffic lights ect

Second problem is while getting on higway about
40 miles in Drive the transmission kinda jumps
or hiccops................

SInce I am starting to have problems can someone
recommend a good code reader??

Oh I have not change my transmission oil but looked at it
and it is nice and red with no dirt.

The car is garaged and driven easily/highway in nice CA
climate.

Any info appreciated.

SKI:lol2::runaround::iceslolan

For just reading and clearing codes, Id pick up the cheapest one you can find on Ebay, mine cost me 25 bucks and will read and clear codes, wont do anything else, but very few code readers will.

As for your problem do you have an SES light at the moment?

Go to your local autozone or parts store & see if they can plug in a scanner & print out the code for you. (Assuming it's throwing a SES)

Hello Folks thanks for the quick reply> that was impressive

And yes I have that Service Engine Soon SES I quess
pop up on the silly display so something triggered it.

I would just go to a good Mechanic the only problem
believe it or not I cannot find one here in my smaller
town or at least that can research the code then problem
solve them to get to the offending bad part or problem.

When I do get this stalling I can clearly see the RPM drift
down from it normal RPM idle (in drive) value so something
is going on there.

Also with the hiccup occurs when it is shifting from around
40-50 MPH when accellerating onto the highway...ie at good
clip..................

I will go to Autozone and get the Code readout...........

On the scan readers is it better just to get a cheaper one
to get the codes or more expensive one or do all
of them do that same thing read codes anyway so
why pay the money!!! Is that true?

SKI:banghead:

I will go to Autozone and get the Code readout...........

On the scan readers is it better just to get a cheaper one
to get the codes or more expensive one or do all
of them do that same thing read codes anyway so
why pay the money!!! Is that true?

SKI:banghead:
Most auto part stores will read your code for free and clear it. This forum has seen just about all the problems with the Intrigue. So someone will be able to help you narrow it down. As mentioned by a previous poster, as long as the reader can read the code and clear it, it should be fine. They sell ones for $$$ which allow you to play with the computer of the car but you need to know what you are doing with those readers. A cheap one off E-bay should be fine. Please post the readings. I have the same problem as you do with the transmission hiccup. I think mine is a bad MAF sensor. With 153k miles, I'll order a used one off Ebay instead of buying new.

BTW, what engine do you have? I'm guessing the 3.5L but the 3.8L was also offered that year.

Hello DTOWN

I have the 3.5L it is a screamer really runs great on the highway
but OK in town really a cruiser car which is what I use it for.

I to have the oil issue of it liking oil so every 3,000 miles
have to add some.

The car is a good car and I bought it 7 yrs ago from Hertz
who had it in Hawaii. Paid $13k for it with only 7k miles
it smelled brand new!!! Good car up to now with the
nagging SES and a few other issues.

Oh I need to change the front brake pads out here soon
anyone recommend brake pads for this??

SKI:runaround:

Just joined because starting to have problems with
my 1999 Intrique , 50k miles ..........

First Problem is stalling after car is warm ie at
traffic lights ect

Second problem is while getting on higway about
40 miles in Drive the transmission kinda jumps
or hiccops................

SInce I am starting to have problems can someone
recommend a good code reader??

Oh I have not change my transmission oil but looked at it
and it is nice and red with no dirt.

The car is garaged and driven easily/highway in nice CA
climate.

Any info appreciated.

SKI:lol2::runaround::iceslolan

Even without looking at the code I can tell you that it sounds like your crankcase position sensor has gone bad. Nothing wrong with your transmission. You have to take out your starter motor to get to it.

Dang you guys are good. Went down to Napa Auto
and got their code reader it showed

P0385

PCM has determined that a malfunction exists in the
electrical circuit for the crankcase position sensor
B

The Price for a new sensor is $80 at Napa

However when I started the car today to drive down
to Napa no SES light came on???? Drove fine......

Also on this printout it says this

1. Crankcase sensor defective (broken I quess)
2. Check connector and wiring sensor
3. Check Trigger Wheel for damage (do not know what this is)

I bet someone here has gone thru this one so folks whats
the best way to approach this problem???

Just get a new sensor and install?

SKI:sunglasse

Find the sensor & see if it's connected good & not coming loose. Check for loose or broken wires. If all else fails, replace the sensor.

Not sure about the trigger wheel...

You could check the wiring, but more than likely its just a bad sensor, theyre a common failure, I was leaning that way as well, but I wasnt sure if you were getting an SES code or not haha.

I think its about a 60 dollar part or so, and an easy install compared to some other GM cars, as was said the sensor is located behind the starter.

Hello Folks

Ok looks like a possible bad Crank Sensor but while the starter
is out should I also possibly replace other sensors in that
area that might fail within another 10-20k miles. Why not.

I read on another post where someone had a similar problem
and replaced both the crank and cam sensors once he
removed the starter. Alhough he just got the crank sensor
code he also just replaced the cam sensor?

SKI

The camshaft position sensor is in a completely different location, its actually under the hood, I believe it monitors the back set of camshafts and is located on the left hand side of the engine.

The camshaft sensor doesnt seem to fail quite as often as the crankshaft sensor, so replacing that is simply up to you. But the only sensor located behind the starter is the crankshaft position sensor.

Thanks LittleHoov

Is it just remove the starter and easy to replace the
crank sensor which I looked at a picture off more
like some type of tube affair. So you just lossen
some bands or screws remove and replace with
another one??

Sounds like a 2 hour job with a $65 part.

Sound correct???

SKI

Im looking at the Chiltons right now, I have a FSM too, but the Chiltons was handy, and it looks like a pretty straightforward procedure.

Basically it looks like you remove the starter, detach the electrical connector from the sensor, remove what appears to be just one bolt and then pull the old sensor out, taking care not to damage the mounting bracket.

Installation should be reverse of removal, except they do mention a Crankshaft Position Learn Procedure, which I believe is usually not necessary. But if you do have any problems with it after install, you can take it to the dealer and they can do the learn procedure for you. But weve had several members do the DIY install, and I dont believe any of them have had to do the learn procedure.

Im looking at the Chiltons right now, I have a FSM too, but the Chiltons was handy, and it looks like a pretty straightforward procedure.

Basically it looks like you remove the starter, detach the electrical connector from the sensor, remove what appears to be just one bolt and then pull the old sensor out, taking care not to damage the mounting bracket.

Installation should be reverse of removal, except they do mention a Crankshaft Position Learn Procedure, which I believe is usually not necessary. But if you do have any problems with it after install, you can take it to the dealer and they can do the learn procedure for you. But weve had several members do the DIY install, and I dont believe any of them have had to do the learn procedure.

I did it myself about 3 months ago. I did not have the learn procedure done and I have had no problems due to it. It took me about 1.5 hours to do it; the hardest part was wiggling the starter around after I took out the bolts to get it to come down out of its housing.

1. You will notice the loss of rpms happen around the 1/4 warm mark. If your rpms are high enough the loss of rpms will not produce a stall (use 2nd gear until 1/4 warm)

2. the CKP sensor problem will only get worse. I would also buy GM on this and I believe the sensor was improved over the original.